HOW TO: Replace The Regulator In A Weber Genesis 1000 Propane Gas Grill


 
Great video Chris. You covered a lot of the contingencies and variations which is great.
Two things I would like to add. First, you can simply replace that quick connect at the regulator with a QCC1 connector. They only cost about $5 or $6. Of course, you still have an old hose and regulator but in my experience, as long as the regulator is working to begin with and the hose is in good shape and still fairly flexible, then there is no real need to replace those parts.
Second, on doing the leak test on a new hose and regulator, I suggest you not only test the connection at the manifold, but also, any connection along that hose all the way back to the tank. I think the manufacturers do QC testing before they leave the factory, but a couple years ago, I got a brand new hose and regulator that had a leak where the hose enters the regulator.
 
you can simply replace that quick connect at the regulator with a QCC1 connector
I mentioned in the wrap-up that there is an adapter that connects the quick connect on the regulator to a current day propane tank and showed this one with left-hand threads that screw into the POL connection on the inside of the tank valve. Downside is you have to remove the adapter when you trade-in a tank or have it refilled.

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But I did not find an adapter that accepts the quick connect on the regulator on one end and has the Acme nut on the other that screws onto the QCC-1 connector on the tank. If you have a link, please share.

on doing the leak test on a new hose and regulator, I suggest you not only test the connection at the manifold, but also, any connection along that hose all the way back to the tank
Sounds like a good plan.
 
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No, chris, I man replacing the quick connect with an Acme nut. Just those two parts.

Just screw out the quick connect fitting from the regulator and replace it with this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077P6ZC9G/?tag=tvwb-20

Of course we need to use some pipe dope just like on the 1/8" NPT connection in your video. And I believe the connection for this is 1/4 NPT.
 
Oh, I see. Sounds like a potential follow-up video. :)

But now I'm confused. Above you wrote:

"...as long as the regulator is working to begin with and the hose is in good shape and still fairly flexible, then there is no real need to replace those parts."

Back in July in this thread, AHymel had a grill with a quick connect and asked:

"Should I recommend a new adapter, or a completely new hose with the easy, newer connection?"

And you wrote:

"I get a lot of my rehab grills that have them (quick connect). I just replace the hose and regulator as I get them."

Which is it, Mister??? :)

To be honest, it was your comment about replacing the regulator/hose assembly on rehab grills as you get them that inspired me to do this video.
 
"MISTER" hahaha.
Well, yah, I do regularly swap out the whole thing. However, there are two caveats to that. First of all, a year ago, I could buy the entire hose and regulator assembly for about $8 or $9. But they took a jump up to nearly double that since then. Second, I don't always swap the old assembly out for a brand new one. Many times, I grab one off one of my parts grills if it is in good shape. But, I actually just replaced the connector on my last rehab as the hose and regular were still good.
To be fair though, for someone that is just doing a personal rehab, it is probably just easier and a better idea to buy a new entire assembly. It takes the guess work out of deciding if the original one is still serviceable or not.

By the way, do they make an adapter that you can use on a new style Acme nut hose and regulator to a quick connect tank? I keep getting quick connect tanks with grills that I acquire and while it is simple to just trade them in at walmart for full tank with the new connector, many times they are full or partially full and I don't want to waste that gas if I don't have to. I would prefer to burn the tank off before I trade it in.
 
Actually Chris the link Bruce gave in post 5 is a good way to go and is certainly a little cheaper BUT is not quite as fool proof as simply doing the whole new regulator. But it is a valid link and a conversion I personally have done many times. Since I can get that "nut" easily at my local Menard's.
 
Chris, you do wonderful work and create high quality videos, thank you!
One thing, you may want to add a comment to head off other criticism, you use the acronym NTP but the correct is NPT ;)
(I spent way too many years working in a hardware store...)
 
you use the acronym NTP but the correct is NPT
Thanks for letting me know. I try so hard to get those things right, then I go back to edit the video and find that I've called a regulator a manifold or I say NTP instead of NPT. And once it's posted to YouTube, there's no taking it back unless you delete and upload a new video. I don't know, maybe I'll have to do just that.
 
It's an age thing. Don't worry about it LOL. Yesterday I had to help a good friend who thought the spring on his garage door had broken. So because I am larger and stronger I began lifting the door manually. Only to find out the hatch from his car was stuck in the door. So we had to prop the garage door, he crawled under it, got the hatch down and tada the door worked.
I hate to tell you how many times I go out to get the morning paper and find the windows down on my car.
 
One other thing, Chris...,it's a better practice to clean the area before you take it apart, not after, to keep from getting junk in the manifold. And as far as emptying a tank with a quick connect coupler, there's this, but it's pricey....and, like all Acme fittings of this type, there is an internal seal (see picture in the next post) which is nearly impossible to find if it should ever go bad. Wouldn't it be cheaper and easier to swap the fitting at the regulator as needed?

Great instructional video, though...very well done and professional. Thanks!

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Just a note about this fitting...I had to use this "soft nose" fitting to empty a tank with a cracked seal. This adapter was given to me by the previous owner when I bought the grill because the regulator still had the quick connect coupler on it. That black thing sticking out of the end is a plastic "driver" that allows you to tighten the fitting with a wrench and is removed afterwards. I had to tighten it so tight to get it to seal I was afraid of breaking the plastic off inside the fitting. Moral of the story is, always check your internal tank seal before you have it filled, not after.
 

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Certainly not worth pulling down and re-posting, very few viewers would ever notice.
I was thinking you could make it one of the first comments below the video, just to clarify.
 
I will assume it is all good now and not rewatch it. I will thank you for doing it and updating it however. It is a good HOW TO to add to the collection.
 

 

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