HM version 4 Rpi 3d print case


 
D Peart said:
Tom,
I printed the hpi top (repaired) stl file from the first post. I also downloaded the 123d file from the first post this AM, and measured that post distance there and it matched my print. Did the updated files not get posted?

dave
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I checked again, you are right, the 75.2 mm was edge to edge and not center to center. I will keep the adjustment to the posts that I just made and will also look into your suggestion about the other posts. Are you envisioning 2 more posts coming from the top?

G Graff, that sounds awesome. I'm finishing up a few updates and will post the files when done. Since I'm not fully up and running with my printer yet, I'll take one of those cases if you can put together an order.
 
Yes, This will allow us to very securely attach the HM board to the case.

dave

Tom Kole said:
I checked again, you are right, the 75.2 mm was edge to edge and not center to center. I will keep the adjustment to the posts that I just made and will also look into your suggestion about the other posts. Are you envisioning 2 more posts coming from the top?

G Graff, that sounds awesome. I'm finishing up a few updates and will post the files when done. Since I'm not fully up and running with my printer yet, I'll take one of those cases if you can put together an order.
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Ended up painting my white one. It helped seal up the finish a lot. Used Krylon Fusion. Not sure if I like the color or not. I was wanting to go with something lighter than black or blue, but if I was to do another one it would probably have to be blue. Too bad they're not $20 a piece instead of $80. Anyway, it will definitely be easier to clean if it gets something on it.

About the only other thing that might be nice to have or add would be some sort of clip or stand to hold the unit. I don't think it would over heat, but when it's laying flat all the vents for the unit get covered up. And you can't really stand it up right because the power comes out of the bottom. The probes I ordered are only 3' long, so I'm going to need something to keep it up near the lid.

Anyway, the turkey is in the fridge thawing. ;)

Edit: Updated pictures. This is more representative of the color.

IMG_3283Large.jpg


IMG_3285Large.jpg


IMG_3287Large.jpg
 
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I'll see what he'll charge for what quantity. The only suggestion he had was we try and work in screws in the design to hold the pieces together instead of the clips. Since fdm is is layered things like tabs are delicate unlike an injection moulded piece.

Thoughts? Is there room to fit in a few screws?
 
G Graff said:
I'll see what he'll charge for what quantity. The only suggestion he had was we try and work in screws in the design to hold the pieces together instead of the clips. Since fdm is is layered things like tabs are delicate unlike an injection moulded piece.

Thoughts? Is there room to fit in a few screws?
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I'll see what I can come up with
 
Shapeways is running a 20% off all orders over $75 if anyone is interested. Not sure if the case model has been updated.
 
I updated the top with the recently shown LCD post changes. The links on the front page have been changed to reflect this. I am currently away for the holiday but have been working on a through post solution for connecting the two pieces. I will hopefully have a workable solution in the next week or so. Sorry for the delay, I've been really busy with work lately and am having trouble getting all of my projects done.
 
Tom Kole said:
I updated the top with the recently shown LCD post changes. The links on the front page have been changed to reflect this. I am currently away for the holiday but have been working on a through post solution for connecting the two pieces. I will hopefully have a workable solution in the next week or so. Sorry for the delay, I've been really busy with work lately and am having trouble getting all of my projects done.
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For what it's worth, I have the case above that was done in "white strong & flexible" and I have been very pleased with the performance of the tabs. I have easily had the case open and shut a couple of dozen times and haven't had any troubles. And from what it took to remove the one post that was in the wrong place, I can vouch that this stuff can be pretty tough (at least tougher than it looks). Hopefully it holds up over time and doesn't get brittle as some plastics / polymers do.

Edit:

If you wanted to go with a screwed together case could you just do something like show below (and do away with the tabs)? I've just shown the one "boss", but there would be 7 others on the case and then the tabs and slots would get removed. Not very elegant, but it is pretty functional.


hmcase.png
 
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I've been trying to come up with a completely internal solution but aside from that one area that has a clear line of sight, everything else requires a more elaborate approach. I thought about the external solution as you described which, as you stated, would be extremely effective but not very attractive. I happen to be happy with the clips and will continue to use that version for myself. I guess I will just make a 2nd version with the external mounts for screws so people that want to go that route will have the option to do so.
 
Alan Erickson said:
About the only other thing that might be nice to have or add would be some sort of clip or stand to hold the unit. I don't think it would over heat, but when it's laying flat all the vents for the unit get covered up. And you can't really stand it up right because the power comes out of the bottom.
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This is probably the largest problem with the new 4.0 design, that it can't stand up on the bottom edge because the connectors come out there. They were placed there largely out of necessity because the right side was entirely taken by the probe connectors, and the left side I wasn't sure if the connectors would reach out of the case (due to the full dimensions of the Pi not being available at time of my design). The power connector can easily be rotated to the side, but the blower RCA really should be on the right side of the board, with all the other outputs. Moving it there would cause a 23% increase in the size of the PCB though. I've also considered just using the blower pinheader and running a wire to the right side of the case and using a jack that mounts to the case rather than the PCB.

Something I did for my LinkMeter version was to attach a bungee cord across the back then use some S hooks to hang it from the table supports.


I know the rPi version is a lot smaller than a Linksys router, but maybe something like this could be adapted? Maybe some sort of clip or something?
 
Bryan. After seeing the off the shelf case in the "my stand alone heatermeter" I was thinking about the same thing that you mentioned above.

Even if I can stand it up right though I'm still going to need a place to put it, so after giving it some thought I'm going to just add a shelf to my WSM and probably just leave the case the way it is (and the color's starting to grow on me).

Attached is a mod I found on The VWBB. Looks like it should be pretty simple. Instead of being 3 boards wide like they're showing I'll probably just go 2 wide. They use garage door handles that have the same bolt pattern as some of the existing holes, so it's really just a matter of putting the shelf together.

The controller did a great job of ........ controlling on my Thanksgiving cook. Since I was shooting for a little higher cooker temperature with cooker I ended up using my Char Griller Kamado instead of the WSM. I'll be interested in seeing on how it works on a lower temp cook.

Tom. Since you had done such a great job designing the case I figured you had thought about the external as described. The PCB boards literally covers almost everything from one edge of the case to the other though; and short of making the case a little bigger (but it's so cute right now) I don't see how you could do it. Don't take that as a challenge.

moriarty4.jpg


moriarty3.jpg
 
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Yeah the PCB is designed in such a way that it assumes you want the smallest possible design so the case is assumed to be the width of the PCB. All the outputs have pin headers though, so it is easy to replace the integrated footprints with wires to panel-mount connectors.

The v4.0 rev 0 (test) PCB actually had the power input jack oriented to the left side, but because I didn't know how much space the rPi was going to force me to leave as a gap I thought the barrel jack might have been too recessed.

Alan, your image links aren't working. Can you post where you found them?
 
Staples to offer 3D printing next year, partners with Mcor.

Starting outside the USA but still pretty cool.


3D printer maker Mcor Technologies announced yesterday a new partnership with Staples to offer "Staples Easy 3D" -- a 3D printing service for customers. The service aims to offer ordinary people access to affordable, eco-friendly, high-quality and "photo-realistic" 3D printed products through Staples' retail stores.

While there aren't many specifics on the service, we do know Staples stores will be equipped with Mcor's IRIS printing system -- a commercial 3D printer known for its high color capabilities and low operational costs. IRIS uses proprietary inks, water-based adhesives and regular office paper to print solid, three-dimensional objects.

Admittedly, that sounds a bit like a sophisticated paper mache (which isn't necessarily a bad thing), but it's likely the first step toward more robust 3D print solutions. Sturdier materials like thermoplastic resin and advanced processes like metal laser stintering could be the next steps forward.

The potential disruptive nature of 3D printing science-magic can't be overstated. Being able to instantly produce useful objects will change lives, economies and society as we know it. Given a high enough level of printer sophistication, a future where any person can download schematics to just about anything and have it printed at a local store isn't inconceivable.



Think about this: Today's 3D print systems are capable of producing parts for functional firearms. With the advent of 3D printable guns upon us, what happens to gun control laws? Will printers be regulated like guns? The print materials, perhaps? These are just a couple questions about a single topic -- there will be far more controversy than just guns. Take the Pirate Bay's interest in offering schematics to "physibles", for example. In the future, such a notions could make "piracy" more palpable than ever.

Mcor states that Staples Easy 3D will launch first in the Netherlands and Belgium early next year. Afterward, Mcor expects the service to be "quickly" rolled out to other countries.
 
Dennis C said:
Staples to offer 3D printing next year, partners with Mcor.

Starting outside the USA but still pretty cool.


3D printer maker Mcor Technologies announced yesterday a new partnership with Staples to offer "Staples Easy 3D" -- a 3D printing service for customers. The service aims to offer ordinary people access to affordable, eco-friendly, high-quality and "photo-realistic" 3D printed products through Staples' retail stores.

While there aren't many specifics on the service, we do know Staples stores will be equipped with Mcor's IRIS printing system -- a commercial 3D printer known for its high color capabilities and low operational costs. IRIS uses proprietary inks, water-based adhesives and regular office paper to print solid, three-dimensional objects.

Admittedly, that sounds a bit like a sophisticated paper mache (which isn't necessarily a bad thing), but it's likely the first step toward more robust 3D print solutions. Sturdier materials like thermoplastic resin and advanced processes like metal laser stintering could be the next steps forward.

The potential disruptive nature of 3D printing science-magic can't be overstated. Being able to instantly produce useful objects will change lives, economies and society as we know it. Given a high enough level of printer sophistication, a future where any person can download schematics to just about anything and have it printed at a local store isn't inconceivable.



Think about this: Today's 3D print systems are capable of producing parts for functional firearms. With the advent of 3D printable guns upon us, what happens to gun control laws? Will printers be regulated like guns? The print materials, perhaps? These are just a couple questions about a single topic -- there will be far more controversy than just guns. Take the Pirate Bay's interest in offering schematics to "physibles", for example. In the future, such a notions could make "piracy" more palpable than ever.

Mcor states that Staples Easy 3D will launch first in the Netherlands and Belgium early next year. Afterward, Mcor expects the service to be "quickly" rolled out to other countries.
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A little off topic but 3d printing is a long ways from being able to print anything close to the pressures needed to contain an explosion in a gun. Also, it would be easier to build a gun from a metal lathe. People have already building there own guns at home for years, nothing illegal about it.
 
John Bostwick said:
A little off topic but 3d printing is a long ways from being able to print anything close to the pressures needed to contain an explosion in a gun. Also, it would be easier to build a gun from a metal lathe. People have already building there own guns at home for years, nothing illegal about it.
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Yes, but at least if more local businesses start with 3d printing it will drive some of the prices down a little bit for cases and such for projects like these in the future.
 
I've printed up a copy of this case using the files from Nov 26th. It looks awesome, the beveled edge really adds a nice touch so it isn't just a plain box. I had a bit of a problem with the fit though:

The edge here overlaps. It ends where it should start or it starts where it should end. The overlap appears to be exactly the size of the slanted area (on one side).

-- The button also didn't actuate in the "Up" direction so I had to file it down a bit. It was really close. It moved but did not click.
-- The tabs... I'm not sure they're clicking into place at all. They sort of hold the two pieces together just by friction though. I put a piece of velcro on the back of the Pi and another piece on the case and that solves that.

Anyway, it looks really great! I'd never be able to make something this nice, Tom, so thanks for making it available. I thought the plastic was going to be a lot more fragile than it is. It flexes but doesn't feel like it is going to break if you grip it enthusiastically. In all, I spent more time drilling the holes for the LCD mount than I did trimming everything to fit so you've save me hours and hours of messing around and wasting money with failed Shapeways prototypes.
 
Bryan:

Out of curiosity where did you get the files for your case that you were printing? I was working on a second case and had modified one of the models in the same location where you had the overlap interference. It looks like somehow you ended up with this and I can't figure out how. I also moved the probe ports further into the top of the case so that the display would sit "flusher" on the front. On the picture above the right side of the display (as viewed in the picture above) is a little recessed when compared to the left side. The probe ports in the top need to be a little 'deeper' and then this will sit flush. And if the ports in the top get "deeper", then the ports in the bottom of the case get shallower, which is what you have printed.
 
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