HM version 4 Rpi 3d print case


 
Sounds like you got it. The table is to illustrate what values are good z heights, but it repeats every 0.1mm so Matt just posted the non-repeating bit. 0.35mm bad, 0.34mm good. Or 0.3mm or 0.32mm or whatever. Since I moved away from 0.4mm layers I just do the first layer at the same height as my others, 0.3mm. It is only there to get good bed adhesion so if you're getting that at your regular layer height there's no need to do the first any differently. Changing the layer height has the side effect of changing the extrusion width in Slic3r, and it irked me that my first layer would be wider or skinnier than the others. Just make sure your heights are a multiple of 0.004 and you're good to go.

EDIT: This should all have gone in the general 3D printing thread but while we're off topic, I removed the heated bed polyfuse and replaced it with a standard 15A automotive blade fuse. Polyfuses suck in that they start limiting current way before their rated value. This causes them to get warm and that further increases their resistance. For example, the 12A polyfuse in the RAMPS controller is only rated for ~9.5A at 40C, which they certainly get to. I also replaced the bed's MOSFET (which has about 40mohm Rds(on) at 5V gate) with one that is closer to 15mohm. That added up to about 10% more current going to the bed, which would otherwise been just burned up as heat in the RAMPS board or just not used at all.
 
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Thanks for the reply Bryan, guess I am not as lost as I thought...
The whole thing just dawned on me, we can slice layers as thin as we want, or as our z steppers allow in accurate complete steps, the extruder will run slower to put out a thinner layer (if that is what we tell it to do) Which isn't a bad thing, cause when the head gets moving fast the extruder wont have to pump out as much plastic as it does with a thicker layer. Bad side is the thinner the layer the more layers total.... I think I am going to try slicing with all layers at .3mm and see how it goes....

Thanks for filling me in on what you have done with the fuse and MOSFET, I may consider doing the same... Anything to get a little more juice to the heated bed to get it warmed up faster is good by me, it's always the bed temp I am waiting on....

I just noticed this was not the general 3D printer thread, I had just followed the link in my notification email and replied in this thread. Hopefully my slice and print will go well and I can stop commenting... LOL I just got a 15CFM blower delivered and so I need to print out a fan adapter for it now....
 
Can someone please post the latest case stl's? I dont have a windows machine and can't find beta 9 for mac. Is the only difference between the posted stl's and the new version the recessed button? Thank you.
 
Not sure if this was already covered, but has anyone printed a case for Raspberry Pi version A? The only difference is that it doesn't have an ethernet port and has 1 USB slot.
 
Tom Kole said:
I haven't, but I also haven't encountered anyone that uses an A.
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I have one! I PM'd Tom about it and will be sending him some additional information on the height of the USB port for it. I have used the PI B case and it works fine too, but would be sweet to have one designed for the A.

Thanks Tom!
 
I "upgraded" to an A, but already had the case, so mine has extra ventilation holes!

I'll probably use the ethernet hole for a CAT5 connector to attain fan + servo nirvana!
 
D. Treacher said:
I "upgraded" to an A, but already had the case, so mine has extra ventilation holes!

I'll probably use the ethernet hole for a CAT5 connector to attain fan + servo nirvana!
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I am wondering if this is going to be possible? Even though the rPi A doesn't have the ethernet port I think the board is pretty much the same size etc, so I'm pretty sure any ethernet connector you try to install there will bump into the rPi board and therefor not fit?
 
Initially, that's what it looks like to me, but I have a Dremel and I'm not afraid to use it ;) Lots of CAT5 keystones around work to experiment with though.

Anyway, just banter right now. Absolutely no time to explore this, or anything else HM related, for at least another month.
 
Here is my latest update. Some subtle aesthetic changes that actually make the case look more like the original concept from almost 1 yr ago, as well as support for Rpi A models, and a version supporting the addition of a cat5e jack (cheap TECH brand off the shelf from home depot) for servo/fan combo's. These are all the 2 line display versions at the moment. I need more time to port the 4 line displays. For the 2 line display cases, there is only one place to stick the cat5e jack and still keep it flush with the side due to interference from the HM and Rpi boards. The 4-line displays have a bit more room so I will probably put the jack in a different spot. Enjoy!

2vtryie.jpg


126bt36.jpg


14ccr3a.jpg


27yts2u.jpg


Files will be posted on first page.
 
Couple questions Tom...

Doesn't the beveled edge make the print a bit more difficult? (for just an aesthetic update)

Also, wouldn't it be easier to print a layer or two across the opening for the CAT5 jack so the hole is covered if you don't want to use the CAT5 jack, then you could cut the layer out with a razor easy enough if you want to add the CAT5? This way you dont have to maintain two different case versions (or have a big hole in the case if you do not add the CAT5 jack)....
 
RalphTrimble said:
Couple questions Tom...

Doesn't the beveled edge make the print a bit more difficult? (for just an aesthetic update)

Also, wouldn't it be easier to print a layer or two across the opening for the CAT5 jack so the hole is covered if you don't want to use the CAT5 jack, then you could cut the layer out with a razor easy enough if you want to add the CAT5? This way you dont have to maintain two different case versions (or have a big hole in the case if you do not add the CAT5 jack)....
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1. Hasn't been a problem for me.

2. I don't like the idea of having a thin wall layer. There is too great a chance that it could be damaged with routine handling. Also, it is unlikely to print well. If the concern is about the ability to add a cat5e jack in the future, I could easily add the jack mounts to the standard version with a cutout outline on the inside of the case so that if you want it added in the future, you just need to cut out some wall with a razor blade. I don't mind keeping up a dedicated version though. This is a rather simple mod as far as 3d modeling is concerned. Maintaining 4-line display versions is much more work.
 
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Whatever you feel is best, but the way I was looking at it you have the 2-line case and the 4-line case already, so maintaining an additional version of both of them with and without the CAT5 jack opening makes 4 versions. That seems a bit excessive....

If someone is running the HM with only the fan they wont need the CAT5 jack so they will have a rather large hole in their case if that opening is not printed over. I personally think a thin wall over the opening will be fine, perhaps two single passes wide should be solid enough for handling I would think... but if you disagree then that's cool. I was just trying to suggest what I find logical and doable and easier to maintain. I personally think the beveled edge may introduce more difficulty than a thin layer over the CAT5 opening.....

On the beveled edge, I was trying to think of the newbies that will be joining us in 3D printing in the future (it's inevitable). A flat print (without the beveled edge) will be easier to print on a printer that is not yet perfectly tuned, the bevel might make the print more likely to go off the rails....

... but again, whatever you feel is best...
 
I would say that those who want to put an Ethernet jack into their v4 systems should just cut their own hole. Are there that many people putting a jack in? The v4.1 boards have a RJ11 jack spot so that's a lot more practical.
 
Bryan Mayland said:
I would say that those who want to put an Ethernet jack into their v4 systems should just cut their own hole. Are there that many people putting a jack in? The v4.1 boards have a RJ11 jack spot so that's a lot more practical.
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I don't think there are many, but I figured such a simple mod to the file could be done for people that want to convert their 4.0 boards. I going to play with one just because I can but am really looking forward to redesigning things when 4.1 is released.
 
My HeaterMeter!

One of Tom's new version cases. The fit was perfect.



Assembly was a breeze. Getting the wi-fi working on a Model A took a bit of searching, but once I found the info, it took about 5 minutes to get it all setup.

I really appreciate everyones' help in this project. It's amazing what the DIY community can do.

An all night brisket is on the horizon for this weekend!
 
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Tom Kole said:
I don't think there are many, but I figured such a simple mod to the file could be done for people that want to convert their 4.0 boards. I going to play with one just because I can but am really looking forward to redesigning things when 4.1 is released.
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I'm actually considering doing this with a 3d printer on the way as well. Especially since I'll be doing a servo/fan combo. The cat5 connection between them just seems too clean to pass up.
 
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