Yes, I was at Menards but I'm not sure if they have the paint you asked me about.
Here is my 2025 grill that i will be restoring, Genesis 1
- Thread starter MarkCuda
- Start date
There was alot of posts being posted yesterday and maybe a few people didn't get to see my comment.I reached out to a powdercoater guy in Duluth Minnesota, he will do my cookbox and lid sides with high heat powder for $250
It's a go
I saw the guy advertising on Marketplace.
He's even going to meet me half way from Eau Claire to Duluth, we decided on a tiny town of Gordon on the 17th.
Cody Bratton
TVWBB Guru
If I can find a quart I’ll do some playing around with it. Looking at the data sheet, for the spray on finish it calls for 2.0-4.0 mils of wet build. Which can be a bit challenging to keep it from running. But I’m up for anything.
If a guy could get setup to do 6-10 boxes at a time it would be much more cost effective than spray paint.
If a guy could get setup to do 6-10 boxes at a time it would be much more cost effective than spray paint.
TomRc
TVWBB Pro
Welcome to the club. I get mocked every time I put painter’s tape on new #63050 wheels to keep them “new” for potential buyers. Now that they’re no longer available as new, I’ll probably be significantly less protective of such things going forward. I’m pretty sure you’d couldn’t give any more of a rat’s HooHaa about what others think about it than I do. Carry on the the good work!Don't laugh, for some reason I'm picky about these wheels
The right one I had to glue it on, after you punch the white wall from the wheel, it won't go back into the holes, at least mine won't.View attachment 106392
Cody Bratton
TVWBB Guru
Kettles. I’m still surprised a company that large didn’t just make them all the same size. In production that would be a significant cost savings, at least I would think.
Jon Tofte
TVWBB 1-Star Olympian
They made kettle wheels long before their first gas grills and larger charcoal models. It wouldn’t have been a bad idea to put 8” wheels on all their kettles and give them a higher stance, but that would have taken away one of the distinctions of the higher priced and more profitable “Master Touch” kettles.
Wow this thread was a good read with tons of good info. Anytime I get on my high horse and think how good of a resto flipper I am I can just come back here to be humbled by you guys. My best success for end caps and cook box sides back in the day when I flipped the old school's was Rustoleum High Heat quart satin. I would grind the end caps back to bare metal then use a roller to apply the paint. There were several variables to my success or lack of on any particular day. Heat and humidity.....cold....etc make a big difference in how fast the paint sets up and if you can go back over your work. I tried several different nap rollers for different outcomes. We all know if you dont remove all of the paint from an end cap your paint job will look blotchy 
.....for a quick low budget flip I would not remove all the paint from the end cap....I would just sand and feather the rough edges and wipe with a micro fiber towel....as I recall I used brake cleaner as the final prep cleaner. For the quick job I used a 1/2nap roller for max texture which would cover up the imperfections. Note....the variables even with a 1/2" roller......hot day...cold day....or if the paint had sat in the roller pan for an extra few minutes really made a difference. The longer it sits in the pan the more sticky it applies thus more texture you get in the finish. In the end my preferred method was a completely stripped end cap and using a foam roller which is the other side of the spectrum. The same variables applied though.....if applied immediately it would go on smooth and lay down with very little texture.....if left in the roller trey for just an extra minute or so even with a foam roller I would get good texture because it applied more sticky or tacky. So just like Larry getting a feel for his spray gun I had to get a feel for the roller technique. I got out of the old school game because the grinding off of the paint and the crazy strong fumes of the high heat paint were a little rough to repeat 100's of times. I think it is great for a couple of trophy resto's but unless your using the proper respirator's and such its probably not so good for ya. Even with a 3m respirator I would come in from the garage with a heavy lung.....it would pass after I had some food and chilled out for a while but still wasnt worth it for me. ( wow...what a downer huh... ) . As for the frame painting on old school's I followed Bruce's advice a long time a go and with with the 2X cover stuff vs any of the high heat products. If you didnt prep the frame very well and wipe with a prep fluid the high heat product could go on uneven or blotchy where your prep work was less than stellar.....but the 2x cover product is just beast mode over everything and lays down like a champ. I prefer to do a light tack coat with the 2X cover followed by a fairly light finish coat. I have never seen any issues with heat from the cook box bubbling any frame paint. Well....thats my 2 cents.......
.....for a quick low budget flip I would not remove all the paint from the end cap....I would just sand and feather the rough edges and wipe with a micro fiber towel....as I recall I used brake cleaner as the final prep cleaner. For the quick job I used a 1/2nap roller for max texture which would cover up the imperfections. Note....the variables even with a 1/2" roller......hot day...cold day....or if the paint had sat in the roller pan for an extra few minutes really made a difference. The longer it sits in the pan the more sticky it applies thus more texture you get in the finish. In the end my preferred method was a completely stripped end cap and using a foam roller which is the other side of the spectrum. The same variables applied though.....if applied immediately it would go on smooth and lay down with very little texture.....if left in the roller trey for just an extra minute or so even with a foam roller I would get good texture because it applied more sticky or tacky. So just like Larry getting a feel for his spray gun I had to get a feel for the roller technique. I got out of the old school game because the grinding off of the paint and the crazy strong fumes of the high heat paint were a little rough to repeat 100's of times. I think it is great for a couple of trophy resto's but unless your using the proper respirator's and such its probably not so good for ya. Even with a 3m respirator I would come in from the garage with a heavy lung.....it would pass after I had some food and chilled out for a while but still wasnt worth it for me. ( wow...what a downer huh... ) . As for the frame painting on old school's I followed Bruce's advice a long time a go and with with the 2X cover stuff vs any of the high heat products. If you didnt prep the frame very well and wipe with a prep fluid the high heat product could go on uneven or blotchy where your prep work was less than stellar.....but the 2x cover product is just beast mode over everything and lays down like a champ. I prefer to do a light tack coat with the 2X cover followed by a fairly light finish coat. I have never seen any issues with heat from the cook box bubbling any frame paint. Well....thats my 2 cents.......
Jon Tofte
TVWBB 1-Star Olympian
I am glad to have another good reminder about dangers of spray painting. I always use a respirator and recently bought a better one. I haven't encountered the heavy lung you mention, but I will only spray paint outside. It is easy to get lured into the thought that if you are spraying outside in fresh air you don't really need a respirator, but YOU DO! Spray painting for a long spell in a closed- in area, probably warrants something even more extreme, whatever that may be.
HankBates
TVWBB Super Fan
How about making one of these for 2026? 