HeaterMeter Hardware v4.3.3, v4.3.4, v4.3.5, v4.3.6


 
Bryan, I have been making a modified Ikea enclosure for my printer this last week, so I have not had time to print a version of the case. I should have a top part printed when I get back home from a fishing trip and I will get a chance to see how it print.
 
Tom De Bie said:
First let me start by apologizing if I offended you.

I don't think my printer is faulty. Rather the fact that I'm using ABS to print it creates stresses in the material and the weakest points are those little pilars
Have tried your approach with the connector less variant, but I liked the fact that I have access to the USB ports before.
Also I've checked out the source file, but as I'm not a programmer (at least I don't think so ;) ) I wouldn't know where to start to alter the file as to get to the result (see below) I would like.
Click to expand...
Oh no, no problem man! I just want to save everyone as much trouble as possible, that's what the HeaterMeter is all about, and didn't want you to have to go off and reinvent the wheel if all that needed to be done was to make a little tweak. Now that I see what you were trying to do I see how you're right, the connectorless option isn't what you wanted at all.

I could see how this would be useful for sure, so there's like a single extrusion width panel that covers all the holes and then once it is printed you'll cut that part out and have the standard version with all the connectors? I'd love to see how it came out printed if you could share it with us.
 
John Bostwick said:
Bryan, I have been making a modified Ikea enclosure for my printer this last week, so I have not had time to print a version of the case. I should have a top part printed when I get back home from a fishing trip and I will get a chance to see how it print.
Click to expand...
Yay fishing! Enjoy that trip.

I've updated the scad file again on Thingiverse. The USB support pillars were too thick to fit the Pi PCB without it being a real tight fit, so the pillars no longer fully go top to bottom, they just sort of taper off. The Locklip thickness has been increased from 1.5mm to 2.5mm which should allow more people to be able to print it with stronger fill. I had to enlarge the case by 0.5mm to have enough room to clear the ethernet jack. Two of the interior corners now have interior fillets for better print quality on more printers. Reduced the front guide lip length too, it was pretty close to the ATmega socket and depending on the solder job / print extrusion, I was worried some people might bump it.

I also reduced the interior fillet on the top because I thought it didn't help anyone with edge curling, it is still there, just half as tall now. If nobody else but me tried it, I'd be happy to put it back in to hear others' experiences.
 
OK, I think I conquered the warping problems.

My Mic6 plate with PEI came in the mail today and it gave me a perfectly flat part. It was somewhat a pain to remove from the PEI but it was flat and shinny, atleast until I took a scrubbing pad to it to remove some whitish residue from some acetone and abs that I did not clean off very well, from when I was working on leveling bed.

I am happy as I can be
 
Bryan Mayland said:
I could see how this would be useful for sure, so there's like a single extrusion width panel that covers all the holes and then once it is printed you'll cut that part out and have the standard version with all the connectors? I'd love to see how it came out printed if you could share it with us.
Click to expand...
I'll definitly share a pic when I am able to print again. Will be a while as my printer is boxed to be moved again to our home after a real long remodeling ;)
If anybody else has the time and is willing to test be my guest, but as this was just a first draft I can't be sure that everything will fit as it's suppose to ;)
 
What version (ie thermistor or thermocouple) is the case on GitHub? I will get the printing g sourced close to home but want to make sure I get the right kit
 
Andrew Foot said:
What version (ie thermistor or thermocouple) is the case on GitHub? I will get the printing g sourced close to home but want to make sure I get the right kit
Click to expand...

I dont think the case is on Github for either the 4.2 or 4.3. The 4.2 case is on Google Docs All of them are there for either thermistor or thermocouple

And the 4.3 is on Thingverse and you have to set the options to what you need.
 
ABS is generally preferred just because it is more heat tolerant than other materials, however the tall sides of the 4.3 case make it more prone to warping. PLA works fine for all colors except black (which can absorb enough sun to melt). There is also ABS+ which warps less during printing and has a deforming temperature between PLA and ABS which works OK.

The case in GitHub is a 4.3 Thermocouple but it isn't kept up to date with every iteration, I'm going to remove it and just put a README with a link to the Thingiverse customizer. The wall thicknesses should be adjusted for the printer's extrusion width anyway.
 
Just a heads up, the official HeaterMeter store is running a End-of-November sale Thursday through Monday, use the coupon code CHEAPERMETER for 10% off anything in the store, just like last year. It is most assuredly not a Black Friday sale because nobody will be trampled and you don't even have to put on pants to go to the sale.

Of course, I am also out of town until Monday partaking of the pecan pie so expect a short delay in shipping.
 
Bryan Mayland said:
Just a heads up, the official HeaterMeter store is running a End-of-November sale Thursday through Monday, use the coupon code CHEAPERMETER for 10% off anything in the store, just like last year. It is most assuredly not a Black Friday sale because nobody will be trampled and you don't even have to put on pants to go to the sale.

Of course, I am also out of town until Monday partaking of the pecan pie so expect a short delay in shipping.
Click to expand...

I'm only just seeing this since I had lots of company over for Thanksgiving. I'll be matching the 10% off sale at www.MicroDamper.com through Dec 1st, no coupon code necessary, prices reflect 10% discount.
 
Hi Everyone! I just ordered a 4.3 kit with K-type TC from Bryan and a Micro Damper from Steve. I'm the new guy so please pardon my ignorance if this has already been covered. I figured out the probes I wanted without issue but the Raspberry Pi has been a challenge since I know NOTHING about them. It would seem like the one I'd want would be the 3 B https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B01CD5VC92/tvwb-20 but the github page says there isn't any software yet for the 3 B. I've read here, just a few pages back, where someone is using one with the latest software build so I don't know. I'm hoping someone here can offer some direction as to what is the best one to use. If the B+ will be required then is this the one I need? https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00LPESRUK/tvwb-20
 
D'oh

Bryan Mayland said:
Just a heads up, the official HeaterMeter store is running a End-of-November sale Thursday through Monday, use the coupon code CHEAPERMETER for 10% off anything in the store, just like last year. It is most assuredly not a Black Friday sale because nobody will be trampled and you don't even have to put on pants to go to the sale.

Of course, I am also out of town until Monday partaking of the pecan pie so expect a short delay in shipping.
Click to expand...

Just my luck I read through this thread and arrive at this point just after the sale.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

 

Back
Top