Heatermeter Aux. Thermocouple And two probe board V6.1(Final Version)


 
yeah, Probably a good thing. The probe jack is exactly 1mm towards the TC jack the Probe#1 did not move and the board is the same size. I also move all the resisters and caps to one side and move the op amp back to under the TC connection.
 
Can I have the STL or freecad or other file to the enclosure?

I need it to upgrade my project

http://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?60285-New-simple-and-little-servo

Thanks
 
MarcoEmanuelEcocco said:
Can I have the STL or freecad or other file to the enclosure?

I need it to upgrade my project

http://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?60285-New-simple-and-little-servo

Thanks
Click to expand...
I don't have an enclosure for the adapter board, as I dont have a 3d printer, yet, but if you get in touch with Ralph, he may send you one.
 
Hi,
I ordered the boards a couple of days ago and am waiting for them. I'll also order the parts to build a couple of them shortly... I didn't find many details on what and how to wire the HM board. I have a HM with thermocouple. Could someone provide a detailed wiring for the HM to use the aux TC board?
Many thanks! and, by the way, awesome job Ralph and John!
 
I posted a chart showing the wiring for the CAT5 jack for several versions of the HM board, with and without thermocouple pit probe, on the "Introducing the Roto Damper" thread somewhere....

email me at rotodamper AT Hotmail DOT com if you are unable to find or follow it....
 
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RalphTrimble said:
I posted a chart showing the wiring for the CAT5 jack for several versions of the HM board, with and without thermocouple pit probe, on the "Introducing the Roto Damper" thread somewhere....

email me at rotodamper AT Hotmail DOT com if you are unable to find or follow it....
Click to expand...

Thank you Ralph!... I found it...
 
One of the things I had plan to do while I am in Malaysia, was edit the OP to add Ralphs diagram and give some info about how to use the board. I should have some time coming up
 
Actually i think the original and one I linked to are both Y5V. Looks like there are a lot of options, just need to keep the size code the same. This will be my 1st time soldering SMDs though :)

OTOH: Is there any advantage to running the 3.3v through the CAT5 cable on a 4.2.4, other than the disadvantage of losing a probe? Alternately, is there a disadvantage to running the 3.3v regulator supply from the shared 5v supply with regard to temp sensor/ TC noise? I know there was an issue per the RD thread when using a shared ground, but I assume that's because the servo and blower pull to ground to power on.
 
The RDTC board has the 3.3v regulator on it to convert the servo +5VDC to 3.3v for the TC amp. There is also a jumper that allows you to bypass the 3.3v regulator and run the TC amp at +5VDC, that is where you will get a slight offset. Theoretically you could use one of the extra wires in the CAT5 cable to send 3.3VDC from the HM board to the RDTC board, then jumper the 3.3v to the solder pad to bypass the regulator, which is I think the answer to your specific question. You are right, you will lose a food probe in doing that. I have been running a RDTC board with the regulator for many months now and it works great, so I don't see a reason to dedicate a wire to 3.3v.

On another note, a benefit that you wouldnt expect and most people would never run up against... I leave my RD out on my grill and powered by my HM 24/7 to give everything the torture test. During development of the RD3 I had the control box so it could only go on one way, and on my grill the CAT5 jack pointed up with that configuration.... As a result rain would pool into the CAT5 jack and shorted out my RDTC board a couple times. The CAT5 jack was extremely corroded and eventually melted and that is when the RDTC failed. Both times the part that failed was the 3.3v regulator on the RDTC board. It was a cheap and easy fix and the board was back up and running both times. If I didn't have the 3.3v regulator on the RDTC board I would have likely taken out the 3.3v regulator on the HM board or the OKI 5V regulator if I was running the RDTC on the +5V line.... So, in event that something on the RDTC board shorts out (due to rain or whatever) the 3.3v regulator kinda acts like a fuse... As a result of that experience I modified the RD3 body so the control box can connect in either direction, so no matter what direction the RD3 sits when connected to your grill the CAT5 jack can face down.
 
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I am a visual type of person, would some one who has completed a V.6.2 RDTC board, post pictures of the front and back of their completed RDTC board.
Thanks.
 
Updated 8.12.2015
-Tented vias(no more visible vias to accidently solder)
-Added an alternate Pit 2.5mm jack, If you don't want to solder SMD parts they can be eliminated and you can use a regular thermistor for the Pit probe.
 
Hey guys, I was wondering if any of you knew what is the best place to jump to the thermocouple output on the HM board? I assume I should do it to one of the pins on the AT Mega?

Thanks!
Danny
 
Locate the 100k resistor behind the TC jack on the HM board, lift the leg of that resistor that is furthest away from the ATMega from the HM circuit board, insert external TC input on the lifted leg of that 100K resistor.
 
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