Got carried away


 
OK, so this stuff is not in a spray can but is applied with a brush. Does it go on pretty smooth?
 
Jon Tofte said:
I am pretty sure I have seen POR-15 in an auto parts store, but the best deal I have come across is Walmart.com:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/POR-15-R...ack-4-00-oz-can-Case-of-6-P-N-45006/171019325

This deal let you get six small cans which I think is a lot better than one large can. Once you open this stuff up it wants to harden. It is pretty easy to have the lid get stuck and have a total loss of what is left in it. The smaller cans are a lot more manageable letting you use a small amount at a time. Buying six makes sense if you plan to use the product on multiple restores over time.

I don't know about the other Eastwood products you are discussing, but POR-15 makes an awesome improvement. Not only does it eat up the rust and prevent more but it also notably strengthens rust damage metal. Don't get me wrong. If the metal is gone it is gone and POR-15 can't bring it back. But it will definitely reinforce metal that has been weakened by rust. It is sticky, messy stuff to work with:p!
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The Eastwood product works exactly the same. I have seen some folks say it's better some not as good. Go figure. They both work well I like the Eastwood product only because it can be purchased in spray and brush on. POR15 IIRC is only available as brush on and you have to buy a spray apparatus to use it that way. Not economical for a small time user. For a body shop sure.
 
LMichaels said:
The Eastwood product works exactly the same. I have seen some folks say it's better some not as good. Go figure. They both work well I like the Eastwood product only because it can be purchased in spray and brush on. POR15 IIRC is only available as brush on and you have to buy a spray apparatus to use it that way. Not economical for a small time user. For a body shop sure.
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I wonder if the spray on stuff would be easier and faster to work with. Painting on POR-15 takes a little patience and a learning curve for this accountant trying to learn how to do this stuff from trial and error. I think it would be a lot easier to spray parts then brush painting them. The only hesitation is the great strengthening results I have gotten from POR-15; I wonder if the Eastwood spray product would be good for that?
 
I have the Eastwood Red spray and it is basically the same as red primer in consistency. It would provide no added strength IMO. The paint on Eastwood stuff might, but not the spray.
 
I really want to POR-15 my personal grill's frame this spring.

Any advice for or against putting a layer of POR-15 on the entire disassembled frame?

Thanks as always!
 
POR15 and (at least the black Eastwood product) are identical in consistency and effectiveness. The spray is particularly better because with the nozzle it can get inside the frame (or a car door seam) what have you. It's also nice to cover large areas. I have not used the brush on Eastwood simply because I have not had a need for it. When I did need a brush product I had used the POR15. I honestly found no difference at all between them. So Bruce I am not sure if you got faulty product, didn't use it correctly or what. But they're identical. There are different types of Eastwood stuff I have not tried (like the colored one) and perhaps they may have varying viscosities that I could not say since I have no experience. I did buy a couple cans of a spray on chassis product that I found to be a little "thinner" because it is meant to penetrate but that is the only difference I have ever noticed.
BTW the viscosity of the product has nothing to do with "strengthening" anything. That effect comes from how well the product penetrates into the rust to activate any layers you cannot brush or sand off prior to use, so honestly IMO a slightly lighter viscosity would actually be better anyway
Bottom lime both are tremendous products, do what they say they will and are relatively easy to work with. Just don't get it on your hands
 
Pretty interesting discussion. POR-15 works great, just a little tricky and messy to use. DON'T GET IT IN YOUR HAIR:mad::p!

I have painted some pretty wide areas with POR-15. The only negative is that it has a tendency to run and then dry with thick runs you have to sand or otherwise smooth back down. That probably is more because I am not a real great painter by any stretch. Still, a spray on product would surely be a lot easier to use as a base coat for covering an entire frame (and, on the Genesis 300s the side panels that rust all over, especially where there are vent holes).
 
Bruce said:
Larry, this is the stuff I have. https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-rust-encapsulator-aerosol-red-15-oz.html
As far as I can tell, it is the same as the black stuff. As you can imagine, if it is dispensed through a spray can, it isn't real thick like it sounds like POR15 is. It is thin like a regular spray paint or primer. Is that how the black spray is as well?
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My experience is it is MUCH thicker than paint primer but still a little thinner than POR15. This is because the Eastwood product is designed to penetrate and POR is as it's name implies designed to simply "Paint Over". Both have their uses but honestly I like the penetrating properties a little better especially for internal applications where you would use the extension nozzle. When I did my Infiniti QX with the products I noticed in the areas I did with Rust Encapsulator if there was the slightest amount of a bubble or rust through I would have to do a but of cleaning before it dried due to that penetration which the POR product did not do. Both seemed to hold up well for what they were but areas done with the POR due to lack of penetration did not hold up as well and there was a little return and bubble through just prioor to me selling the truck. The people who bought it go to the same church as me and as of yet they have not "hunted" me down so I have to assume it's still holding up after another winter (a long hard winter ugh).
So overall I am more fond of the Eastwood RE than the POR15 simply because it works identically but in areas re penetration is superior and turns the remaining "metal" every bit as hard and strong as POR15. So basically it's more cost effective, penetrates better, strengthens what it penetrates as well or better, and becaus it can be had in a spray with extension is easier and more convenient to use. So, basically I have not had any desire to buy POR15 again
 
Would it be possible with the Eastwood product to spray an entire frame, even the parts that are not rusty? I'm thinking I want to take my grill apart this spring and really get ahead of any potential rust issues, especially because I do not use a cover. If I take the frame completely apart, coat it in the Eastwood spray product then spray paint it, would this get me where I want to be?

Any input is very much appreciated!

Thanks,

Tim
 
That would probably be a good thing. Keep in mind the Eastwood stuff is about $15 a can. Spraying the stuff inside the metal frame would be a big plus.
What model of grill would you be doing this too?
 
It's a 2000 converted from a 3000. My main interest is to make sure the frame is solid for a long time. I don't see a lot of 3000s on Craigslist around here, so I want to make sure I keep this frame as ship shape as I can. I can always replace the firebox and lid if necessary, but the long frame is really becoming a little rare, and since it's in pretty decent shape I want to keep it strong!
 
Well, then, yah, I would think you could use that stuff to help with any current rust inside the frame and prevent future rust. Unless you plan to strip the outside of the frame, I don't know that it would do you much good on the outside of the frame over the top of existing paint.

If you plan to leave your grill outside without a cover, you might want to consider doing something to prevent water from pooling in the bottom of the legs. It tends to happen on these grills with the caster wheels sealing the bottom and not letting any water out that gets in. Maybe drill one or two small holes through the bottom of the plastic insert that goes into the frame?
 
Unless you took that entire frame to bare steel it's kind of a waste of time/money. It does no good over paint. I don't know if the Weber frame rails are dipped into paint or simply sprayed on the exterior surfaces. I would think coating it internally would stop anything that has started and if it's bare metal in there it would turn into a phosphate on the steel and give it long lasting protection. The exterior though, does not seem to be problematic on them. huge trouble point is where the screw goes through the fire box. This is mostly due to galvanic corrosion. Plain steel screw into aluminum and into plain mild steel. I would pay particular attention there and I would switch everything over to stainless on that fastener. That would be a HUGE help in stopping rust
 
The fastener at the fire box on the side has already been changed to stainless. This grill, magically, has little to no rust there. I've redone several others where that is definitely a rusted out mess. The galvanic reaction in addition to water sitting there. My thinking to coat the entire frame is that I want the finish to be even, so if I do only parts the risk is for an uneven finish on the frame. In the spring when I get it apart, I will see what I'm up against. Two cans of the Eastwood product likely would be enough, so I'm not going to be upset to spend 30 bucks to basically bulletproof the frame.
 
Like I said though, unless you completely strip the frame of all finish prior to applying Eastwood it's a waste of time as no good will be done. Also my experience with it is that something as small as the frame could be done with one can especially if you're not spraying the exterior of the frame (which other than spot repairs) is a waste
 
If using the eastwood in spot repairs, then some careful sanding and blending should make it completely invisible. Just grind or brush out areas with rust or prone to rust. Feather the grind marks out with some coarse sand paper, then progress to fine sandpaper. Then spray with Eastwood, resand with find sand paper and top with a good spray paint.
 
Thanks, I just don't have experience with rust encapsulators, so I don't know what they look like under paint. If they are sandable, then that is excellent!
 
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