Genesis XXI (Jr) Restoration


 
If I can ever find one cheap enough, I would like to get a newer front control Genesis to play around with and see if I could like cooking on one as opposed to what I've been used to since 1998.
I really like my Genesis ii LX grills. They work great. They are made in America and are pretty good grills but I am just using them temporarily. My 1000s and Jr's are with me for the long haul. I'm confident nothing will ever be built as good as a classic Genesis.
 
Something kind of "rustic" here I sort of like. What if you simply sanded and oiled the originals? Might be a pretty decent look
I could definitely appreciate that rustic look but the wood is pretty weak and deteriorating. I want to build my personal grills to outlive me. I'm excited to get working with my ipe ironwood. I've been looking forward to it. It's my favorite part of these builds. Doing this wood work from scratch. I'm kind of a purest when it comes to these classic Weber's except for the woodwork being my area of creativity. Or maybe just some other very subtle changes that look like they could be Factory original.
 
I could definitely appreciate that rustic look but the wood is pretty weak and deteriorating. I want to build my personal grills to outlive me. I'm excited to get working with my ipe ironwood. I've been looking forward to it. It's my favorite part of these builds. Doing this wood work from scratch. I'm kind of a purest when it comes to these classic Weber's except for the woodwork being my area of creativity. Or maybe just some other very subtle changes that look like they could be Factory original.
I didn't realize from the photo it was that bad. Too bad though. I think it may have been an interesting look
 
@Jon Tofte I've been ordering it off Amazon but you can get it other places also.


Product Description​

Designed for exterior wood applications, this varnish coats your wood with a tough, protective finish that will withstand the rigors of the sun, rain and wind. Ideal for outdoor furniture, doors and case goods, Exterior 450 is fortified with UV absorbers to help minimize fading and maximize performance. Its built-in mildewcide retards mold and mildew growth. Available in Satin, Gloss, and Semi-Gloss.

Exterior 450 is tough and flexible enough to handle the expansion and contraction of wood through hot summers and cold winters that typically causes cracking and peeling. Available in quarts or gallons, it flows well and dries rapidly to a clear finish. It's also low Vac and low odor. Water base

I'd like to try more products from General Finish

Well I'm just now reading that it doesn't recommend 450 topcoat with ipe Ironwood so I'll have to do some more reading. It looks like it suggests General finishes outdoor oil so I'll have to do a little digging.
 
Last edited:
I’ve often wondered what the epoxy finishes would look like and how they’d handle the sun. For example some of the live edge epoxy tables that have become so popular.
 
There definitely are a lot of products out there for finishing different types of woods for different applications and purpose. I think I'm going to do some more experimenting on different samples. I'd like to do at least three sets of tables and handles for three different grills while I have all my woodworking stuff out.
 
Ipe Ironwood is pretty much the most durable longest lasting wood available regardless of finish. Without applying a finishing coat of any kind it has a beautiful graying look to it but the problem with this is that if you drip Grease or oil off your food onto the wood tables it will be extremely noticeable so leaving it unfinished isn't an option because of that.

General finishes outdoor oil might be something I want to try. Yes it will need to be reapplied periodically but that would be super easy and fast. It's not like it's a ton of square footage.
 
@Jon Tofte I've been ordering it off Amazon but you can get it other places also.


Product Description​

Designed for exterior wood applications, this varnish coats your wood with a tough, protective finish that will withstand the rigors of the sun, rain and wind. Ideal for outdoor furniture, doors and case goods, Exterior 450 is fortified with UV absorbers to help minimize fading and maximize performance. Its built-in mildewcide retards mold and mildew growth. Available in Satin, Gloss, and Semi-Gloss.

Exterior 450 is tough and flexible enough to handle the expansion and contraction of wood through hot summers and cold winters that typically causes cracking and peeling. Available in quarts or gallons, it flows well and dries rapidly to a clear finish. It's also low Vac and low odor. Water base

I'd like to try more products from General Finish

Well I'm just now reading that it doesn't recommend 450 topcoat with ipe Ironwood so I'll have to do some more reading. It looks like it suggests General finishes outdoor oil so I'll have to do a little digging.
Thank you, Josh!

Looks like a good product. Why do you think it would be better than my favorite:

 
Josh, I noticed on your photo that the porcelain on the inside of the lid looks really clean. How do you clean the inside really baked on carbon without scratching the porcelain? I have been finding that razor blades can scratch the surface. I know the inside doesn't matter much once you cook a few times but still, I hate scratching up the inside.
 
Thank you, Josh!

Looks like a good product. Why do you think it would be better than my favorite:

Jon I can't say for sure that it would be better. Also I have not used that exact brand of marine spar varnish. The differences I noticed was a clearer harder finish but still flexible enough to avoid peeling and cracking. Application was easier and faster with quicker dry time. This was just my experience from my limited testing and I did still find the Marine spar varnish to be an excellent product. I just preferred the 450. I think if you found one that you really like I see no reason to change unless you're looking for something different. I still have a lot more testing I would like to do. There's a lot of products out there and I'm not a professional woodworker. Just a hobbyist that enjoys doing it.
 
Josh, I noticed on your photo that the porcelain on the inside of the lid looks really clean. How do you clean the inside really baked on carbon without scratching the porcelain? I have been finding that razor blades can scratch the surface. I know the inside doesn't matter much once you cook a few times but still, I hate scratching up the inside.
I use razor blades but I'm careful with my angle that I use them and I also use 0000 steel wool which does not scratch the porcelain. Just don't use Scotch Brite on it because that will scratch it. Changing your razor blades often helps also. I use quite a few.
Screenshot_20250812_043743_Photos.jpg
 
I use razor blades but I'm careful with my angle that I use them and I also use 0000 steel wool which does not scratch the porcelain. Just don't use Scotch Brite on it because that will scratch it. Changing your razor blades often helps also. I use quite a few.
View attachment 11807420250813_105554.jpgIMG_20250812_120740.jpg
Thanks Josh, this really helps, I suspected my angle and blade condition scratched the inside of my B lid. I think I need to go back to my old cheap flat tool (pictured on right) that allows a more shallow angle and I need to change blades more often. In the middle of the clean I noticed a cracked blade which I'm sure didn't help. I think I need to go slower and be more careful. Fortunately it's a dump rescue for a block party but I want to do a much better job on the next one. Another question - do you use any oven cleaners on the inside of the porcelain to soften crud up before you scrape and use the 0000 steel wool?
 
Thanks Josh, this really helps, I suspected my angle and blade condition scratched the inside of my B lid. I think I need to go back to my old cheap flat tool (pictured on right) that allows a more shallow angle and I need to change blades more often. In the middle of the clean I noticed a cracked blade which I'm sure didn't help. I think I need to go slower and be more careful. Fortunately it's a dump rescue for a block party but I want to do a much better job on the next one. Another question - do you use any oven cleaners on the inside of the porcelain to soften crud up before you scrape and use the 0000 steel wool?
I actually don't use any cleaners in the beginning. I think a lot of people do though and have good luck. Some people pre-soak some people pressure wash. I don't do anything before. Same with the cook box and lid caps. I'll scrape out the big chunks real quick but other than that I just get to it and after I'm done then I degrease the film left behind.
 
I actually don't use any cleaners in the beginning. I think a lot of people do though and have good luck. Some people pre-soak some people pressure wash. I don't do anything before. Same with the cook box and lid caps. I'll scrape out the big chunks real quick but other than that I just get to it and after I'm done then I degrease the film left behind.
Thanks Josh, I appreciate hearing about your techniques. It sounds like there are different ways that work for different people and projects. Also, every grill has had a different history of use and wear and tear.
 

 

Back
Top