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Genesis Silver B?


 
SStratton

SStratton

New member
I am a complete novice when it comes to this whole world of restoring vintage Weber grills. I recently picked this grill up on the curb for free. It looked salvageable to me, so I thought it would be a good easy introductory rehab project. I’m not 100% sure exactly what model it is because the model/serial number sticker is too worn out to decipher what it says. From looking around the web it looks like an early 2000’s Genesis Silver B? The side burner appears to me some kind of add on accessory kit? Like I said above, I’m completely new to this and will welcome any suggestions or advice on how to get started.

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The side burner makes it a Silver C.

I'm going to guess 2002 or 2003 model year from a few clues on the frame.

edit: There is tag on the right-hand side of the control panel, between the control panel and the side burner. It may be faded and unreadable, but if you can read the serial number the first two letters will tell the year.

again, I'm guessing DD ( 2002) or maybe DT ( 2003 )
 
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Welcome to the forum! I would start by cleaning up everything as well as you can and determining what you are going to need just to get it working again. It looks like you could use a new set of burner tubes and flavorizer bars for example. You can find many reasonably priced replacement parts on Amazon.
 
I think that your instincts about a simple rehab project are correct. It looks like a complete grill that quite possibly even works. I would suggest going one step at a time while keeping the grill functional rather than tearing the whole thing apart and trying to do a museum-quality restoration. Despite the age, many parts are available from various sources as well. Best of luck!
 
Should be plenty of parts for that available, get it cleaned up and get it back in shape, you’ll get years of use out of it!
 
Nice grill!! You're gong to like cooking on it. Yup, even with my bad eyes I think that's an SWE frame - so Dan is right, 2002-2003. You can look for casting dates when you work on it to get a better idea.

Just a couple quick tips...

When you take out the burner tubes do not remove the little screws at the left hand side of the tubes. After removing the manifold, just lightly pry between the cookbox and the tubes to walk them out. Then clean the junk out of the mounting pads where those screws are and slide the new ones in.

You will need to put the two new outer tubes into the cookbox first (but not under the screws yet) and then carefully work the crossover tube (mostly missing on yours) into the burners, centering the crossover so the burners end up at the right spacing. Then slide the assembly under those little screws.

The correct handle for that time period has the centered "trapezoidal" grip area but the earlier Silver handles will fit.

King Kong (on Amazon) makes a pretty nice cover for it if you want one.
 
John G (Boston) said:
When you take out the burner tubes do not remove the little screws at the left hand side of the tubes. After removing the manifold, just lightly pry between the cookbox and the tubes to walk them out. Then clean the junk out of the mounting pads where those screws are and slide the new ones in.
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I've told this to three different people --- but they still went ahead and busted the screws anyways.... only to find that they still couldn't get the burner tubes out ---- having to take the manifold off anyways. Some people still listen to sketchy YT vids without knowing what they are really dealing with. Sure it more hassle to drop the manifold --- but it really is the best way.
 
Jim Weber said:
I've told this to three different people --- but they still went ahead and busted the screws anyways.... only to find that they still couldn't get the burner tubes out ---- having to take the manifold off anyways. Some people still listen to sketchy YT vids without knowing what they are really dealing with. Sure it more hassle to drop the manifold --- but it really is the best way.
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Those people got what they deserved then. The only right way to do it is to drop the manifold as you stated.
 
I have a Silver B now for 24 years and it is an Abrams Tank

I've bought new flavorizer bars, burner tubes and igniter over time. Also just replaced the grates with some nice stainless steel bar grates. Still cooks great! Honestly I've posted here before about looking at new grills and my rational brain ultimately says there is no reason to get a new one when the current one works great

Also I think there are a lot of great aftermarket parts for this grill so you don't necessarily need to buy Weber parts
 
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Does anybody have any tricks/suggestions for removing the plastic ends from these frame rails? I can see that there’s a slot with a tab holding it in but it seems to be stuck inside the tube.

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RUST!. I don't know how plastic can fuse to steel due to rust. I think the rust expands and binds the handle inside. Anyway, You can try pounding it out from the back end using a wood dowle. You can get one about a 1/2" in diameter, maybe a little bigger in there. I would try soaking it with a good penetrating oil for a day or so first.
But when they are bad, I have a partial solution. I take an angle grinder to the metal and rip it away from the plastic handle to save the handle. Usually if the metal is rusted enough to grip the handle that bad, they are probably shot anyway.
Then you just need to find replacements for the metal extensions.

I have fought the fight many times over. Good luck.
 
SStratton said:
Does anybody have any tricks/suggestions for removing the plastic ends from these frame rails? I can see that there’s a slot with a tab holding it in but it seems to be stuck inside the tube.

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I have gotten some of them out using a rubber faced 2 pound hammer. Wedge a little screw driver into the slot to hold the tab back. Hold the steel frame vertically with one hand (plastic end pointing down) and carefully tap the backside of the plastic end as close to the frame as you can. If you hit it too hard it can break but a few careful nudges sometimes gets them out. Just go easy on it - don't want to break anything:)
 
I was able to get 1 out today with some finessing. I will continue to let the penetrating oil work its magic and try again another day. I’m not going to rush it or force anything too hard if I can help it. I really do appreciate everyone taking the time to chime in.IMG_6307.jpeg
 
B

Thread 'One way to get the plastic end caps out Silver'

So after my disaster with the paint on the Silver C plastic end caps had another set from a B. After reading all the horror shows of people breaking them when they tried to get them out and I had one that would not budge and I needed it. So I had soaked them down for days one would not budge and yes I pushed the clips had someone hold those in with a screwdriver. So I had some 1/2 copper long enough to insert in one end to small diameter I know but my goal was to get them out maybe 1/4 inch soak again with PB Blaster which I did last night.

I knew I needed something thicker so I went...
 
If you get to the point that you feel you cannot get it out without breaking it, you have a choice. The first option is to just go ahead and bust it off and the drill or sawzall the stub out of the bracket. Or you can carefully cut the the bracket off the handle with an angle grinder and cutting wheel. Either way you will lose either the handle or the bracket.
 
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