Genesis Platinum Series II Restoration started


 
Pretty much. I Got my punch on the screw that was broken off and gave it a sharp whack with a small 8oz ball peen and suddenly nice shards of shattered aluminum
 
They key is to make sure the underside of the cookbox wall is well supported when you do it. Don't just lay the cookbox on its side and try to pound it out.
 
Yeah I think if I had taken the many hours to try to build a support jig so the entire area around the screw was fully supported it would not have happened but than I would have been building that for days. In the end good drill bits are your friend...........................oh wait a minute LOL All I was trying to do was center punch it so I could drill it out. Yes that's how easy old cast aluminum that has been heated to very high temps, rapidly cooled, reheated repeated over many years will shatter once it has been crystallized the way that heat/cool/reheat process is. Cast iron will do the same though not nearly as badly or easily. However had I learned about these bits sooner I think I would have saved a lot of headaches https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B07CML2DYM/tvwb-20
 
So I drilled out the bolt on the outside of the frame and am left with a silver dollar size hole. Still haven’t attempted to remove the part of the bolt thats in the fire box but likely going to drill it out too.
Good suggestion on how secure the new bolt to the frame?
A large enough washer???
 
I would go with stainless washers on both sides of the frame, after treating with a rust converter. You will probably need a similar washer on the inside of the firebox, too. If you have a larger Ace Hardware or something like Marsh Fasteners available to you I suggest trying to find 316 stainless which is more corrosion resistant than even 304.
 
If you drilled that big of hole in the frame, then you probably should consider replacing the cross member or finding a new frame.
 
Bruce & Randy,

I definitely agree that Bruce's advice is better.

If you can't/don't want to go that route, hopefully the washer trick and rust encapsulator would buy you a few more years.
 
The bolt and frame were so rusted that it produced the hole. I think I’m going to look for CL find for a new frame. In the meantime, see what I can get done with washers.
 
Yah, no harm in cobbling up the current frame and getting some burgers burning on that thing. Then, when you find a good deal on a grill to cannibalize, you can swap the parts over. But you definitely should get it fixed sooner rather than later.
 
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Might be better and no more expensive to just buy one new piece of frame tubing and use the method shown in Bruce’s how-to video. You would be starting out with something new instead of another old cast off. This piece is the most rust prone part of these grills.
 
I used a piece of pipe strapping pop riveted on the cross frame for a temporary fix until I can replace the frame piece next year as per Bruce's video. Cheap and fast. Its been holding well.
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Yah, great cobble job and I mean that in a good way. It works and it solves your problem until you can affect more solid repairs later on. But, that is like a tooth that needs a crown but has a temporary on it right now. It works fine, but isn't designed to last long and will only be good for a short while.

Looks like that wire grate on the bottom of the grill is pretty badly rusted out as well. Those are tough to refurbish when they get that bad. I would probably look for a replacement for that as well.
 
Yeah Bruce, that cobble job was to just get me through spinning the turkey on Canadian Thanksgiving and it worked great. This was on a Silver C and I still have the same frame repair to do on the Redhead 3000 along with adding the left swing shelf I got from you. I now have all the parts but it just got too cold to paint so projects for next summer. I will probably sand blast the wire rack on the bottom and paint it with POR 15, then cross my fingers and pray. :)

And thanks for the Great video on replacing the frame piece!
 
I wish I had access to a sand blasting outfit. That will probably work to rehab that wire rack. Good luck on the frame repairs and I know what you mean about not being able to do grill rehab work this time of year.
 
I had my firebox soda blasted, and had them do my lower wire rack as well. It turned out really nice. If you can find someone to blast the rack, I would say it is worthwhile.
 
Jeff MA said:
An update:
I was assembling the side shelf bracket after painting it and notice the factory weld was looking a little "weak" so I brought it to my co-worker who re-welded it. Much nicer and bullet proof this way.

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Updated the older Quick-release from this:

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To this:

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Underside shot:

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Opted for the newer Weber tank gauge along with a new Propane tank:



Stainless retaining bolts for the end caps:

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Jeff
Click to expand...
Great job on restore. How did you update the quick release? Where did you get the single part?
 
You can buy just the QCC1 connector to replace the quick connect. But it is probably just easier to replace the whole hose and regulator assembly. You can do it for under $10 if you have a 3/8" flare connection at the manifold or for about $16 or so if it is a 1/8" NPT connection.
QCC1 Connector only: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MV2ZF2M/?tag=tvwb-20

Hose and regulator with 3/8" flare connector: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LPUN73U/?tag=tvwb-20

Hose and regulator with 1/8" NPT: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0180YJSF0/?tag=tvwb-20
 
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The Platinum has a new accessory- a Weber Cast Iron Griddle # 7542/7598. I had been using my Lodge Cast Iron on the grill but the Weber Griddle is larger for more Smash Burger cooking :p

It replaces one on the Stainless Grates and fits like a glove.
A big Thank You to Red_5_Wrangler over at the WKC for helping me out.

Here it is all seasoned up.

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Jeff
 
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