Genesis Platinum Series II Restoration started


 
Peter,
Welcome to the Forum. Nice score on that Platinum and on the almost completely discontinued end caps, those are over $100 just for those.
You'll probably have to strip those aluminum shelves with brake fluid like I did on mine.

Looking forward to some restored pics.

Jeff
 
Peter,
Welcome to the Forum. Nice score on that Platinum and on the almost completely discontinued end caps, those are over $100 just for those.
You'll probably have to strip those aluminum shelves with brake fluid like I did on mine.

Looking forward to some restored pics.

Jeff

Thanks for the welcome Jeff.

Should I keep the end caps nice and new (and in the box for the future) and strip and paint the originals?

Can you give me more detail on stripping with brake fluid?
 
Peter,
If it were me I would clean up the factory end caps and apply a coat of hi-heat paint to them. I used Rust-Oleum 241169 High Heat Ultra on my last restore and liked that it is more of a Satin finish vs the Flat finish of the cookbox. Where you have a mint set of factory caps you can compare the shade of the black and see if it matches the sheen.
I would put the factory ones on to snap a couple pictures after the restore is done and put back in the box for safe keeping.

Regarding the side table shelves:
I don't know what paint Weber used on them but the paint did not want to budge with paint remover and my Home sandblaster was talking forever. I took a shallow pan and soaked some paper towels with DOT 3 brake fluid and let if sit on the shelf for anywhere from 1/2 an hour to 45 minutes and took a single edge razor blade and light scraped the paint off. It worked like a charm.
You might get lucky on that left shelf as yours is missing most of the paint so it might be easier. On the burner shelf I would probably do a light sanding and then paint it if it's not down to aluminum.

Keep us posted on the restore.

Jeff
 
That's a nice find. I almost pulled the trigger on one but didn't because it was too far gone in my estimation
 
I have some parts and supplies being delivered this week and will be continuing the restore this weekend. Will update soon.
 
Here are a few pics. Primed and moving along nicely.





After a few coats of the satin finish Rust Oleum high temp:



Here is the lid all cleaned up with the factory replacement end pieces (I had to use them because the cotter pin froze in one of the original end pieces):

 
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Peter,
Looking good although I would not paint the interior of the Cook Box, you do not want any outgassing of the paint in your food.

Jeff
 
I'd probably cook up some cheap meat/beef a couple times and let the food absorb some of those fumes. Of course dispose of the meat afterwards.

Jeff
 
First off, you probably should not have used primer at all. If you read the Rustoleum ultra can, it recommends that you DONT use primer. I think the reason is that they don't make a 1200 degree primer. I am not sure what temp your primer is rated for, but if it is anything under 7-800, you might have an issue there. These grills easily hit 600 and that is above the grates.

As far as removing it from the inside, I see two options. First you could try some paint thinner, but then you would have to turn the grill on and let it burn off for a couple hours on high to make sure you burn off all the chemicals before you use it....still probably not a good idea. The best idea is to probably do what you did to get it cleaned up in the first place and that to get after it with an angle grinder and wire cup brush (assuming that is what you used to clean it out).

That is a great looking hood. I will be looking to some AFTER photos.
 
First off, you probably should not have used primer at all. If you read the Rustoleum ultra can, it recommends that you DONT use primer. I think the reason is that they don't make a 1200 degree primer. I am not sure what temp your primer is rated for, but if it is anything under 7-800, you might have an issue there. These grills easily hit 600 and that is above the grates.

As far as removing it from the inside, I see two options. First you could try some paint thinner, but then you would have to turn the grill on and let it burn off for a couple hours on high to make sure you burn off all the chemicals before you use it....still probably not a good idea. The best idea is to probably do what you did to get it cleaned up in the first place and that to get after it with an angle grinder and wire cup brush (assuming that is what you used to clean it out).

That is a great looking hood. I will be looking to some AFTER photos.

The primer is rated at 2000 degrees. Rustoleum Primer. Will be tackling the removal today.
 
Can you show a photo of the label on the can. I didn't realize they made a primer that resistant to heat.
 
Can you show a photo of the label on the can. I didn't realize they made a primer that resistant to heat.

So I got up early and used some stripper to remove the inside paint and primer. Using Citristrip, I applied a small layer and the paint and primer wiped off very easily. I cleaned the remnants with Simply Green. Then I set up the grill to test the burners, igniter etc. ( I had not done this step prior to buying or prior to rehab.) and all works flawlessly and I will leave it burning for a while.


Here is the 2000 degree primer:



And the Gel stripper:



And a couple of pics of the grill:





The grates are from an 1100 Redhead rebuild I did a few weeks ago. They are the original circa 1998 enameled steel and they are still in decent shape (no rust on top, no perforations) so I will use them for now till I decide if I want to buy RCPlanebuyer grates or go another way.

The flavorizer bars are original Platinum II bars, and they are stainless steel. I am missing a short piece due to the smoker box that was included taking up it's place. Should be easy to replace.

After this initial burn-in, I will complete the rebuild, but the side shelves will have to wait till I strip the old paint off. It is amazing how well these old burners still work. It got up to 500 very quickly. Here is the original thermometer.

 
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So I realized I had a full used set (albeit some rusty and perforated) set of enameled flavorizer bars from my 1100 restore. So I replaced the missing flavorizer bar with the pick of the litter.
 
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Good use of spare parts Peter. I just picked up another Genesis 1000 Redhead that is in relatively decent shape. Although I am going to have to replace the flavo bars and igniter for sure, probably the cheapo enamaled steel cooking grates and I don't know for sure about the burners. I have a couple other grills that I can glean a few parts from maybe. The frame, lid and fire box look to be in pretty good shape. The worst thing is that it is missing the swing table like soooo many of these older Genesis grills.

Thanks for that photo of the Rusto primer. I will have to look for that next time I am in Home Depot or other DIY store.
 
I would go with Amazon, but I dont have Prime. I found it at the local Menards for under $6 per can so I will grab a can next time I am out that way.
 
Alan,
I used Stainless 1/4" x 20 5/8" long tapered bolts.
Weber uses splined bolts with those thin "speed nuts" originally.
You can reuse the nuts if you want too.

fJqYScv.jpg


Jeff

The Ace store near me only carries this Hillman bolt in 1/2 inch length. Would they work?
 

 

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