Genesis II s-320 excessive temperatures


 

RichardB

New member
I only recently discovered "The Virtual Weber Bulletin Board" and have read many posts concerning mostly problems with Weber gas grills not coming up to desired temperature, and very few related to excessive temperature - my problem is the latter. This particular grill, a natural gas Weber Genesis II E/S-320, #89557, was purchased new in 2008; and other than the recent addition of new heavy duty grates, burners, gas manifold, and quick disconnect hose is strictly stock; it has not been modified in any way.

During a lengthy eight month process of trying to reduce extreme operating temperatures out of the "blast furnace" range it appears Weber could have used an incorrect orifice size in both the original and a new replacement manifold. This model grill has three 14,000 BTU burners and is designed to run on 7 W.C." Before adding a regulator to the grill my mainline system 'Static' pressure was 8.260 W.C.". All of the orifices on both manifolds measured a very nice interference fit of a #51 drill bit. Incidentally, the gas valves were also checked on both manifolds and all are of the variable adjustment type. According to the Gas Orifice Capacity Charts, even at Weber's recommended 7 W.C." each burner will be producing 16119 BTU's. With the unregulated 8.260 W.C." at the grill that pressure and #51 orifice size is no doubt producing in excess of 17,000 BTU's - no wonder I'm getting extreme temperatures. Prior to adding a regulator, even with all three burners operating on a Low setting, they were putting out over 500 degrees. With three burners on High the temperature was 725 plus and still climbing - and it's wasn't a whole lot better with two on High. I've used Weber, oven, and digital temperature indicators, they all agree. I had to stop using the digital probes because they maxed-out at around 550-650 and then went into meltdown and became useless. I no longer use the digital instrument/probes; but continue to test with combinations of the analog thermometers.

I won't get into a lengthy dissertation about where I am now with the grill; but I did try several regulators and now have settled on a Maxitrol RV48L adjustable 3-6 W.C." That was a big help, but not a complete success. The grill is now operating with an output from the regulator of 4.930 W.C." which should be getting fairly close to that 14,000 BTU figure based on a #51 orifice. In the meantime I will be doing more temperature tests. All W.C." pressure tests were done with an UEI EM201B digital manometer first "teed-in without a regulator; and then with the Maxitrol regulator installed and the testing tee at the input side of the gas manifold.

Basically, at this point my plan is to match orifices and W.C." pressures to get something less than the 14,000 BTU's.

My questions are:

1. When Weber states this Genesis model (as well as most of their other 2-3 burner grills) operates at 7 W.C." are they talking about static or dynamic pressure? My guess is that it would be static even though I have also been recording the dynamic reduced operating pressure with various gas valves turned on - burners not operating. Weber was no help with this question.

2. Weber also publishes that at Low the operating temperature range should be 250-350, Medium 350-450, and High 450-550. I checked with their Customer Service to verify that these temperatures were with all three burners operating, they answered, "Yes." I have not as yet been able to stay within these parameters with three burners. Are these temperatures consistent with what members have on your grills?

3. I think (hope) I am on the right track in temperature reduction with the selection of orifice sizing matching desired W.C." pressure, but would sincerely appreciate any words of wisdom and advice that you, the group, might have.
 
Hokey smoke, Batman, that’s hotterenell!
Maybe Larry or Bruce will have an idea of what’s going on but, it sounds to me that you have an input pressure which might be excessive.
I have no clue as to how to handle that, someone here will know what is going on.
You came to the right place.
Welcome aboard, Richard!
 
First off I would get your utility company out there. Pronto. If your grill is having issues every appliance you own will be as well. You got something truly weird going on there. I have seen and actually know of an area in not too distant memory here in IL (Crystal Lake) to be exact that had a malfunction in their gas delivery system causing a number of house explosions. Honestly quit fooling around worrying about the grill and get the gas company there
 
The issues the OP Is having are well beyond my expertise. If you have a Weber NG manifold with the correct NG sized orifices on your grill, then it should be heating up correctly. If not, it does sound like your issue is the pressure in your NG line to the grill.
 
Hi all,

Thank you for the rapid response on my excessive grill temperatures. Please don't fret, this is not a main gas supply issue, I appreciate your concern. When I first got into the problem I immediately called our local utilities company, San Diego Gas and Electric and told them I would like them to come out and verify the pressure out of their regulator and into the residence and subsequently to the patio outlet for the Weber grill. I was surprised that within thirty minutes one of their technicians arrived with tools and test equipment in hand and verified that all pressures were normal at 0.50 psi supply. I asked him if the W.C. inches were correct and the answer was, "Yes." Okay, I know that I should have asked him precisely what the number was to see how close it came to Weber's recommended/required 7 W.C.". That was my error, but at this stage of my investigations I was still a complete novice at this natural gas grill troubleshooting; I have learned a lot in the last eight months.

Realizing I didn't know the exact numbers for W.C." at the outlet of the Weber quick disconnect hose, this is when I invested in a professional digital manometer. We boys never can have enough tools, right? Good for motorhome propane maintenance as well. As I mentioned in my post the line pressure at the output fitting on the Weber hose is 8.260 W.C." pressure, certainly within limits of my residence gas appliances and only slightly more than Weber's 7.0 W.C." requirement.

After referencing the Gas Orifice Capacity Chart, and knowing that the orifices in my manifold/s are all a perfect #51 I installed the Maxitrol regulator (as an option I discussed with Weber and they approved - at least the Customer Service rep. thought so). Then with my test tee fitting I could measure both the original unregulated pressure as mentioned above and later the Maxitrol, non-adjusted as delivered pre-set, regulated pressure that is 4.930 W.C.". I find it interesting, that this pressure is only slightly more than what Weber uses on their four burner grills; which they furnish with a regulator set at 4.5 W.C.".

Again, what concerns me is that from the Gas Orifice Capacity Chart my grill with the Weber installed #51 (.0670) diameter orifices, and at Weber's recommended/required 7 W.C." pressure the chart shows a whopping 16,119 BTU's produced. All these past years if my operating pressure was as I and the San Diego Gas and Electric tech measured at 8.260 W.C." that means that this grill had always been operating well in excess of Weber's design specification of 14,000 BTU's. With a little chart interpolation that figure was probably well over 17,000 BTU's. The question would be why would Weber even engineer such a mismatched orifice vs. W.C." pressure grill? If you have that Orifice Capacity chart handy and read down the 7 W.C" line to a BTU figure closest to 14,000 BTU's you will see 14,026. Then go over to the left, the result is a 1/16" (.0625) drill bit size. Granted it is only two drill bit sizes difference but apparently a small change in orifice size can produce a considerable change in BTU output - some good and some not so good. I think this is the drill bit size Weber should have used. In my case, with an even higher 8.269 W.C." pressure, it is no wonder my temperatures were so high.

So, with all that said, do you folks think I am on the right track in resolving the problem, or am I out there chasing the wild geese? I realize there are a whole lot of numbers to digest here and I hope I have not been too confusing in presenting the data - a thermodynamic engineer I am not. If you see errors in my analysis or have further suggestions I would gladly and wholeheartedly accept any and all suggestions.
 
Richard, you are well beyond my minimal expertise in this area. I hope you get your issue solved and don't burn down your deck in the mean time. I also hope someone else here and give you some further guidance. Larry???

If not, you might want to find a NG/LP forum that is used to dealing with these kinds of issues on a regular basis.
 
I do not know your grill. So what is the ACTUAL spec on it based on the label? IOW what does Weber rate it at? My own grill (Genesis 2000) on NG with no mods. IOW I have actual stock size jets based on the chart I have. On low all 3 burners (given a hot day mid 80's) my lid thermo will show about 275. Yesterday I was using my dad's Genesis 2000 (though his grill has an experimental mod I did) with extra heat deflectors above the grease pan directly under the burners and custom made flavorizer bars in one layer but vary tall bars IIRC there is 5 total bars. So it tends to get more heat on less gas. It was running in the 370 range on a hot day protected from wind. Also his is an LP grill (though that truly does not make any difference)
Anyway given you have a more modern one I really don't know how Weber changed them
 
Just grabbing straws here but I'm curious what the temperature stabilizes at with one burner on low. I know this is comparing apples to oranges but both are gas grills. On my Genesis II LX 345 propane grill, with one burner on low, it will stabilize at approx 200* on a 70* day. Three burners on high and it will easily go way north of 600*. Needless to say I don't leave the grill when pre heating. Just a random thought.
 
Prior to adding a regulator, even with all three burners operating on a Low setting, they were putting out over 500 degrees.
Richard,
I think my propane grill heats this way also, or not far from it. Just to confirm, I'll fire it up and verify.
 
Richard,
Please change title as your grill is a Genesis not Genesis II as the II model starts in 2017.

This is a very good article to read on Natural Gas grills and states "Low pressure appliances typically operate at 2″ or 4″ water column displacement"

I think you may have just had the pressure too high from what I can gather. Is it working well when you keep your pressure between 2 and 4?
 
I think Joe may have hit the nail on the head.

After my quick and dirty test, my grill hit 600* in 8 minutes. But, after 30 minutes with three burners on low, it settled at 390*. Far below the 500* temp stated above. So, that proves my speculation wrong. Not surprising, most days I don't know whether to shot or wind my watch.
 
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And we are all basing these readings on lid thermometers. That is about as accurate as walking outside and taking a guess at what the actual temperature is outside twenty miles to your East.
 
I do not know your grill. So what is the ACTUAL spec on it based on the label? IOW what does Weber rate it at? My own grill (Genesis 2000) on NG with no mods. IOW I have actual stock size jets based on the chart I have. On low all 3 burners (given a hot day mid 80's) my lid thermo will show about 275. Yesterday I was using my dad's Genesis 2000 (though his grill has an experimental mod I did) with extra heat deflectors above the grease pan directly under the burners and custom made flavorizer bars in one layer but vary tall bars IIRC there is 5 total bars. So it tends to get more heat on less gas. It was running in the 370 range on a hot day protected from wind. Also his is an LP grill (though that truly does not make any difference)
Anyway given you have a more modern one I really don't know how Weber changed them
LMichaels,

If you are talking "actual specs" for the burners, all of Weber's info is that a Genesis II S-320 (3 burners, + side burner); the three main burners are rated at 14,000 BTU's each and the side at 12,000.

Your example of 3 burners on low producing 275 degrees is just the information I was looking for to make a comparison. On my grill, and I just ran the Low burner test yesterday, was 275 with only the back burner on Low with the lid thermometer. I would be interested in what temperatures you and others are registering at the High, Medium, and Low settings.

On July 27 I ran temperature tests with the Maxitrol regulator - 78 degree day and calm wind:
(Numbering the burners from front to rear 1,2, and 3)
All three burners On High 630
3 OFF, 2 ON, 1 On 560
3 OFF, 2 OFF, 1 On 490
Weber says 450-550 normal

All three burners On Medium 475
3 OFF, 2 ON, 1 On 450
3 OFF, 2 OFF, 1 On 415
Weber says 350-450 normal

All three burners Low 400
3 On, 2 OFF, 1 On 310
3 On Low, 2 OFF, 1 OFF 260
Weber says 250-350 normal
(I ran #3 ON for this test as this is the burner I usually use for 1 Burner Indirect Heat)
As you can see, I am not all that far off with my temperatures, and possibly with one of my spare new lid thermometers and using a couple of my ThermoPro digital probes on the grates I may be even closer to desired temperatures. What do you think?
Richard,
Please change title as your grill is a Genesis not Genesis II as the II model starts in 2017.

This is a very good article to read on Natural Gas grills and states "Low pressure appliances typically operate at 2″ or 4″ water column displacement"

I think you may have just had the pressure too high from what I can gather. Is it working well when you keep your pressure between 2 and 4?


Here is an exact quote from Weber's web site titled "How Hot Should My Gas Grill Get?" It is a Weber Canadian site, but is still the basic information: "This is a great question and one we get a lot! No matter how big or small, all our gas grills are designed to max out between 500-550°F."
The link for the complete article: How Hot Should My Gas Grill Get? | Burning Questions (weber.com)
 
Joe, Oops, you are absolutely correct my 2008 is a "Genesis," sorry 'bout that, don't know how I got on that track. And my Owner's manual was right beside me here on the desk, no excuse.
Thank you for researching the article on the lower pressure gas appliances/grills. I too found this site about 7-8 months ago as I was just beginning my research. I totally agree with the article where he states that he always recommends having a regulator on any natural gas grill. I would really like to know just why Weber decided to go with the 4.5 W.C." pressure on their four burner models - and of course added a regulator. As I mentioned early-on, I even got a Weber Customer Service guy to agree that adding a regulator, "couldn't hurt."
 
I think Joe may have hit the nail on the head.

After my quick and dirty test, my grill hit 600* in 8 minutes. But, after 30 minutes with three burners on low, it settled at 390*. Far below the 500* temp stated above. So, that proves my speculation wrong. Not surprising, most days I don't know whether to shot or wind my watch.
Colin, Great information thank you! That 500 degree figure on three-burner LOW I quoted was before I added the Maxitrol regulator - yup pretty darned hot. If you check my reply to LMichaels you will see that you and I are just about equal at the LOW setting - yours at 390 and mine 400. Do you have any idea how your HIGH and MEDIUM temps compare? If they are anywhere close it appears I just might have closed in on the magic combination of regulator pressure and that #51 orifice.
 
And we are all basing these readings on lid thermometers. That is about as accurate as walking outside and taking a guess at what the actual temperature is outside twenty miles to your East.
Bruce, Oh isn't that the truth about lid thermometers! As I mentioned to LMichaels, I'm planning to run some more temperature tests over the next few days and will be using a new out of the box Weber lid thermometer (still no guarantees here, for sure), along with at least a couple ThermoPro probes, and a grill surface analog thermometer and see how they all do. I will only be able to use the digital probes for the LOW temperature settings because they really don't like to get into the 500 and above temps - after a while probes do get a wee bit expensive.
 
Colin, Great information thank you! That 500 degree figure on three-burner LOW I quoted was before I added the Maxitrol regulator - yup pretty darned hot. If you check my reply to LMichaels you will see that you and I are just about equal at the LOW setting - yours at 390 and mine 400. Do you have any idea how your HIGH and MEDIUM temps compare? If they are anywhere close it appears I just might have closed in on the magic combination of regulator pressure and that #51 orifice.
Yes, Richard, my Genesis II operates at high and medium very close to those numbers. I find that interesting mostly because my burners are north/south and yours are east/west. Love the way my grill operates, very versatile cooking machine.
 
Hi Colin,
Thank you for the further reinforcement of information that we are apparently so close in numbers for the High, Medium, and Low temperatures. More than likely I am just 'picking nits' with these numbers at this point now that I've got the operating W.C. pressure reduced to about 5". I'm guessing that I probably will not have to get into re-jetting the manifold; but will only have to reduce the regulated pressure down to 4.5 W.C.". And if I do that, which is a very simple adjustment, will bring me well in line with the performance that Weber is getting with their 3 & 4 burner models, with the factory provided regulator.
I'm with you, I have totally enjoyed this grill from the very beginning, other than the 'unruly' temperatures of course.
But, I have in most cases been able to work around the problem. It's just that I got tired of trying to make-do all the time.
I'll be doing a 14 pound brisket tomorrow and it should be no problem temperature regulation wise because I'll be following Myron Mixon's method of "hotter and faster" grilling that requires 300 degrees with only the rear burner throughout the cook period - that I can easily do. I have done other briskets, even with the "Blast Furnace" (pre-regulator of course), and have always used the slow low heat method. Trying to keep the temp at around 200-225 for 12 hours was a challenge that I resolved by blocking the lid up with wedges until I could maintain the temperature. Just one of my make-do's that I had to put up with. Hopefully no more.
Thanks again to you and all those that have responded to my problem and project; you have made this New Kid on the TVWBB feel very welcome.
 

 

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