Genesis Hinge Pin Snapped and Stuck


 
If you drill it out, get a centering drill bit as well. It won't walk like a regular drill bit and will save a lot of broken drill bits and help you get the drill hole started after you center punch it.
 
You know I bought an old outboard motor that was seized pretty badly (a 1955 Johnson 10 hp). It had sat in a damp shed in Minnesota so long it was rusted inside and stuck. Belonged to my father in law's friend. We took the plugs out and used coca cola in the cylinders. once they broke a little free, followed up with lots of penetrating oil, and it ended up being an outstanding motor until it was stolen off my boat in 2001
 
Bruce said:
If you drill it out, get a centering drill bit as well. It won't walk like a regular drill bit and will save a lot of broken drill bits and help you get the drill hole started after you center punch it.
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Thing is, with a lid pin, I don't really think it's necessary to center the bit. Close might be good enough. I think a little slop really won't be a problem?

Gerry
 
Probably true Gerry as long as you don't get too off center and wind up sliding off the side of the pin halfway through.
 
As Gerry suggested above, I would get a propane torch. They really aren't too much money and it's way easier than trying to drill out the rest of that pin.
 
G Schafer said:
Patience is a key. I had a friend that used to be into the hit and miss engines from way back when. He would get an old rusted one that was seized up and hang a weight from a long wrench attached to the crank shaft bolt. Penetrating oil was sprayed into the spark plug holes. He would wait patiently for the penetrating oil to work. Sometimes it took a looooong time, but it always worked.
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Great story. I'm sure that there's a life lesson in there somewhere. Your friend was certainly using time to his advantage.
 
Bruce said:
1955 motor stolen in 2001. Probably went to a collector.
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No it turned out it was a bunch of degenerates who lived around the corner from us. Whenever I would be out front working on my antique motors they would drive by very slowly staring at everything. My boat, my motors, you name it. We were due to leave on vacation the next AM (July 5th) to head to the lake house in Minnesota. So I had the boat ready, a padlock on the motor BTW, and an old trick my father in law taught me to prevent boat/trailer theft. Take the lug nuts off the trailer wheel in addition to a padlock on the trailer tongue, They cut off both locks. I imagine the trailer first. Because the trailer was one wheel down and spun around, and then I found the broken pieces of the motor lock in the boat. They'd also gone through my tackle boxes (assuming looking for the registration because nothing else was taken). Police took a report. Nothing they could or would do. About 3 weeks later I was driving past that house and saw a green outboard motor in the garage. Told the sheriff but they would not investigate. I loved that old motor too. That thing could push my 14' fishing boat to 35+ MPH verified by GPS. And also by DNR radar who stopped me on a 10hp limit lake insisting it could not be a 10 until he checked the numbers on the block. We ended up having a great conversation about how great those old 50s motors were. He was duly impressed.
 
We had a 33hp Evinrude 1961 on a 16' flat bottom that I put many miles on when growing up. I smacked many sand bars and Wing Dams on the Mississippi than I could count and it was still running good after I left for the Army. My dad gave it away to some kid, boat, trailer and motor. Ugghh. I miss that boat and motor. It was a big part of my teen years.
 
Have the clamps on and working it. Just want to confirm this looks like it should! The clamp size bought didn’t allow for a socket on the lid. The pin snapped flush with the metal so there is nothing to grab on one end of either pin. And that makes it difficult to get any PB into those ends.

Wondering if the next step is intermittently grabbing the end with pliers every few days and trying to pull it to see if it has loosened?

Thank you all for your help and advice!




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Neither one of your pictures looks right. The first picture appear to be pushing the pin, but in further rather than out. The second picture (without the socket) appears to be pushing on both ends of the pin with no purchase against the casting to move it.
 
Stephen-NC said:
Have the clamps on and working it. Just want to confirm this looks like it should! The clamp size bought didn’t allow for a socket on the lid. The pin snapped flush with the metal so there is nothing to grab on one end of either pin.

Wondering if the next step is intermittently grabbing the end with pliers every few days and trying to pull it to see if it has loosened?

Thank you all for your help and advice!




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The way this is setup it won't work as you are just squeezing the pin.

Put a larger socket on the LH side that is contacting the ear,. Maybe three washers would work. You need the head of the pin to fit through whatever is on the left side.

On the RH side, if the clamp isn't big enough to fit a socket try a really small nut, or a ball bearing that is smaller than the pin to push it through. You can use a piece of tape to hold the small pieces.



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for the other side, I would try to push it out in the direction of the arrow.

Put a ball bearing or a small nut where the X is and push it through Once it moves a little you should be able to use vice grips to finish getting it out.

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Thank you all for the comments. I’ll admit that initially I didn’t quite grasp things but now I understand. I went out and got some 3 inch clamps, some ball bearings and a few short metal dowel pins. Here’s the set up.

On the firebox side I was able to get a ball bearing positioned on the broken edge and hope that it is in the right spot. On the lid side, I couldn’t get it to sit so I decided to try to push from the external pin side. Fingers crossed!

Thank you all again for your advice.
 

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An auto mechanic's version of what you are trying to build. Presses out ball joints and such.
 
Update: have had the clamps in place for 1 week, intermittently spraying with PB Blaster and attempting to tighten clamps. I have had no luck getting any movement at all on either pieces of the broken hinge pin.

I think the next move will be to try to use a torch.

This will be a completely new project for me, so so welcome any recommendations or advice any of you might have. Starting with which torch to purchase and how to use it!

Thanks,
Stephen
 
I say torch it, then try some more aggressive methods. If you jack it up. Then just find a donor grill. Should be several around for cheap or free right now.
Even if you pay $25 or $50 for a donor grill, big deal. You already paid for a $6 can of PB Blaster, a propane torch and a week of your time.

As for the torch, any basic propane torch will do. Probably $20. Something like this.

www.homedepot.com

Bernzomatic Trigger Ignition Start Blow Torch Kit with 14.1 oz. Handheld Propane Gas Cylinder and Adjustable Flame 333084 - The Home Depot

The Bernzomatic Utility Torch Kit is your all-in-one solution for various projects. This kit includes a durable torch head with a trigger start for instant ignition. With an adjustable flame knob, you
www.homedepot.com

www.harborfreight.com

Electric Start Propane Torch

Amazing deals on this Electric Start Propane Torch at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
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