Common joke on this forum is that now you have an excuse to go tool shopping.I don’t have access to a lot of tools.
Yep, he needs to head right off to Hazard Fraught and spend a paycheck or 2 FWIW OP, the method I suggested should only put you out about $10 worth of tools. Hardly a big expenditureCommon joke on this forum is that now you have an excuse to go tool shopping.
How do you manage that on a whole lid or cook box? Seems REALLY awkward. I have never seen anything that could not be pushed out. But them I don't work on nearly as many grills as other things.I've had pins that I cannot free, even after a week of daily PB with a clamp pushing on it.
Some may advise against this. Support the lid or the cookbox so the pin is vertical, with a socket behind it and tap it out with a punch.
I used a 3/8" deep impact socket and supported the rest so it wasn't moving.
It took a couple of taps but came through. With the socket on the backside supporting the ear I had no concerns about breaking it off.
How do you manage that on a whole lid or cook box? Seems REALLY awkward. I have never seen anything that could not be pushed out. But them I don't work on nearly as many grills as other things.
NO NO Dan, you cannot hammer cast aluminum. Don't you know that. NEVER NEVER NEVER. LOL
Did you use a hammer on the punch?
BTW, I am not criticizing you Dan. I do that with all my stuck pivot pins, cook box bolts and manifold bolts. Only I am probably a bit more aggressive that most.
Patience is a key. I had a friend that used to be into the hit and miss engines from way back when. He would get an old rusted one that was seized up and hang a weight from a long wrench attached to the crank shaft bolt. Penetrating oil was sprayed into the spark plug holes. He would wait patiently for the penetrating oil to work. Sometimes it took a looooong time, but it always worked.Torch is optional. Patience and PBlaster are the 2 key ingredients