Steve Hoch
TVWBB Honor Circle
I tend to agree with you, but I'm not sure either. It's easy enough to check.
Genesis Gold NG to LP
- Thread starter Samuel
- Start date
Bruce
TVWBB 2-Star Olympian
I have been using these on my rehabs. This is the burners with very good 16 ga flavo bars as well.
Samuel
TVWBB Wizard
Bruce,
I rather like the box style endcaps. I have seen you die those black. I have not decided if I want to go that route, since my 1st attempt at dying handles did not go so well. How long do you bake them when you dye them. My issue is I use a tamale pot and with handles I would have to do one side at a time. On my handles I attempted 30 minutes on one side and flipped them for another 30 minutes using the same dye. How do you get them at such a rich black in color.
My stove only can get the dye at 210 degrees no more.
I rather like the box style endcaps. I have seen you die those black. I have not decided if I want to go that route, since my 1st attempt at dying handles did not go so well. How long do you bake them when you dye them. My issue is I use a tamale pot and with handles I would have to do one side at a time. On my handles I attempted 30 minutes on one side and flipped them for another 30 minutes using the same dye. How do you get them at such a rich black in color.
My stove only can get the dye at 210 degrees no more.
Bruce
TVWBB 2-Star Olympian
200 is the target temp for the dye. I have done handles the way you did with good results. 30 minutes each end should be plenty. I would make sure to use the Synthetic RIT dye called Graphite color. Don't use the standard black regular rit dye.
The other thing is, once it is done and fully dried (wait a day at least), wipe it down with some good automotive vinyl protectant. I use Aerospace 303 but others should work ok as well. That brings back the nice rich sheen to the plastic.
I also welded up a custom rectangular SS bin that I use to dye my parts and use a turkey fryer to heat up the solution. It allows me to lay the handles down fully in the solution so I don't have to do one end at a time. I am planning to do some dyeing later this summer and will do several handles along with knobs and igniter switches. It is kind of an involved process and I don't want to be doing it very often. After that, I will be doing a lot of "Black Out" edition Silver B rehabs.....hahaha
The other thing is, once it is done and fully dried (wait a day at least), wipe it down with some good automotive vinyl protectant. I use Aerospace 303 but others should work ok as well. That brings back the nice rich sheen to the plastic.
I also welded up a custom rectangular SS bin that I use to dye my parts and use a turkey fryer to heat up the solution. It allows me to lay the handles down fully in the solution so I don't have to do one end at a time. I am planning to do some dyeing later this summer and will do several handles along with knobs and igniter switches. It is kind of an involved process and I don't want to be doing it very often. After that, I will be doing a lot of "Black Out" edition Silver B rehabs.....hahaha
Samuel
TVWBB Wizard
Bruce I was not sure if I should give that a try or not because the old burners need replacing. If you look at the first pics of the inside of the firebox you can see where the center burner crossover tube is broken causing a misalignment. But I guess I could so long as I only turn on the 1st burner.
Samuel
TVWBB Wizard
I was thinking about going gray on gray with my grill by using a gray silver handle. It was discolored in the middle because of a grill light attachment, so I attempted to heat the ends with a heat gun, to bring it back to matching life.
Unfortunately, all I did was burn it. I just thought I would make post of an example of what "not" to do.
Unfortunately, all I did was burn it. I just thought I would make post of an example of what "not" to do.