Genesis Gold NG to LP


 
Bruce,
I rather like the box style endcaps. I have seen you die those black. I have not decided if I want to go that route, since my 1st attempt at dying handles did not go so well. How long do you bake them when you dye them. My issue is I use a tamale pot and with handles I would have to do one side at a time. On my handles I attempted 30 minutes on one side and flipped them for another 30 minutes using the same dye. How do you get them at such a rich black in color.
My stove only can get the dye at 210 degrees no more.
 
200 is the target temp for the dye. I have done handles the way you did with good results. 30 minutes each end should be plenty. I would make sure to use the Synthetic RIT dye called Graphite color. Don't use the standard black regular rit dye.

The other thing is, once it is done and fully dried (wait a day at least), wipe it down with some good automotive vinyl protectant. I use Aerospace 303 but others should work ok as well. That brings back the nice rich sheen to the plastic.

I also welded up a custom rectangular SS bin that I use to dye my parts and use a turkey fryer to heat up the solution. It allows me to lay the handles down fully in the solution so I don't have to do one end at a time. I am planning to do some dyeing later this summer and will do several handles along with knobs and igniter switches. It is kind of an involved process and I don't want to be doing it very often. After that, I will be doing a lot of "Black Out" edition Silver B rehabs.....hahaha
 
Thanks for the tip.
Maybe it is the fact that I am not letting them sit on it for a day before I apply the Aerospace 303.
I will give that a go on the next one.
 
Oh, one other tip is to make sure you clean them up real well before you dye them. Using bleach to clean them up works great for me. Any grease or other contaminents left on the parts will tend to repel the dye.
 
Might as well fire it up and give it a test run while you have it all together. Or did you already do that? How did it all work?
 
Bruce I was not sure if I should give that a try or not because the old burners need replacing. If you look at the first pics of the inside of the firebox you can see where the center burner crossover tube is broken causing a misalignment. But I guess I could so long as I only turn on the 1st burner.
 
I was thinking about going gray on gray with my grill by using a gray silver handle. It was discolored in the middle because of a grill light attachment, so I attempted to heat the ends with a heat gun, to bring it back to matching life.
Unfortunately, all I did was burn it. I just thought I would make post of an example of what "not" to do.

Genesis Silver Handle pic 1.jpg
 
Bruce, do you have any other suggestions on improving my dying attempts. I do not for see myself dying the end caps because I have not mastered that technique. I still want gray on gray on this build. I merely wanted to see how the handle would come out if I attempted to dye.
I used about 10 quarts of water to 1/2 bottle of dye on this one.
 
Oh, I think you need to use more dye for that much water. The ratio of dye to water is about 1 part dye to 8 pars water. So for 320 oz of water you would need about 40 oz of dye. That would be about 5-6 bottles of dye. You might want to add some acetone to the mix as well. I don't think it is necessary though.

I know, it is pretty expensive to dye just one part. That is why I built my long pan where I can put in 5 or 6 handles or 30 or knobs all at once. I believe you can save the used dye for later use as well. After you dye the plastic, let it dry out for a day and then hit it with some good automotive vinyl protectant. It will look like new.


Here is a video that explains the process pretty well. I might do my own video if/when I get around to dying parts later this summer.

 
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