Genesis ep330.
- Thread starter Mike Len
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- gas conversion
Jon Tofte
TVWBB 1-Star Olympian
No, that will definitely be different. Even within Weber there are many different manifolds. You will have to either buy one from Weber (or some other on-line source). Don't tell Weber you want to do a conversion. They most likely won't help you at all because of liability issues. You need a 3 burner + sear burner Genesis 330 NG manifold.
Here is one on eBay. Maybe you can wheel and deal:
Or, a new one from a good grill parts provider:
www.grillpartsamerica.com
You are also going to need a NG hose if you buy the new one, and you will need to do something about your side burner which will also not work properly with natural gas.
If you got a great deal on this grill and thought just needed a few cheap parts to turn it into a NG grill you were, unfortunately, in my opinion led astray.
Here is one on eBay. Maybe you can wheel and deal:
Weber Genesis E-330 Grill Natural Gas (NG) Manifold Assembly (2011-2016)+ Hose | eBay
Find great deals for Weber Genesis E-330 Grill Natural Gas (NG) Manifold Assembly (2011-2016)+ Hose. Shop with confidence on eBay!
www.ebay.com
Or, a new one from a good grill parts provider:
Weber (NG) Manifold Assembly, Genesis E-330 (2011-2016)Default Title
Features: Complete natural gas (NG) manifold assembly for Weber Genesis E-330, model years 2011-2016. Assembly includes all 3 main burner valves with orifices, sear burner valve with orifice and male threaded fittings for the gas supply line and the side burner feed line. Mounting hardware (two...
www.grillpartsamerica.com
You are also going to need a NG hose if you buy the new one, and you will need to do something about your side burner which will also not work properly with natural gas.
If you got a great deal on this grill and thought just needed a few cheap parts to turn it into a NG grill you were, unfortunately, in my opinion led astray.
Last edited:
Kyle in Woodstock
TVWBB Guru
Nice looking grill. Use some Barkeeper's Friend on that side table to clean it up.
There are so many natural gas grills out there for sale on Facebook.... I'd just buy one of those and swap out your red hood and lid (and any other parts you'd like to), then resell the grill for what you paid for it. Free conversion.
There are so many natural gas grills out there for sale on Facebook.... I'd just buy one of those and swap out your red hood and lid (and any other parts you'd like to), then resell the grill for what you paid for it. Free conversion.
LMichaels
TVWBB 1-Star Olympian
Yes there is no NG conversion "kit" Though going from LP to NG is more feasible than the other way however once it goes that way it can never go back. The side burner is another story but can be done. It takes a lot of skill and understanding of gas flow and pressure to accomplish. Or you can simply buy all the NG hardware from another donor grill
Kyle in Woodstock
TVWBB Guru
Go to Weber.com and register the grill. It will give you warranty information and all the part numbers you need.
How To Determine The Age Of Weber Grills & Smokers - The Virtual Weber Bullet
How to determine the age of Weber grills and smokers using the date code stamped or printed on the grill. Also, the C Club: Proud owners of first-year WSMs.
www.virtualweberbullet.com
Your AT grill was manufactured in 2013
Mike Len
New member
Thanks LMichaels. I would like to try and drill out the manifolds. I am very handy and think I can do this mod. If it fails I guess I buy a new one. How do I do the side burner?
LMichaels
TVWBB 1-Star Olympian
It's NOT that easy. Just seeing your answer tells me you really don't understand that. No offense but gas is not to be fooled around with. Heck if you don't know how and at what pressure the gas in your own home is distributed you're in trouble. I would HIGHLY recommend you buy the proper parts. The investment is well worth it especially since you obtained it for free
Mike Len
New member
Ok sounds good. Where is the best place to order parts? Weber? Or somewhere else. What do I need? 4 burner for natural gas and something for the side burner?
Dave in KC
TVWBB Wizard
LM, can you take a minute and explain the details here? It has always been my understanding that the manifolds on NG and LP are the same, but that the orifices are different? Is that correct? What specifically about "buying the right parts," will have anything to do with the pressure of the home natural gas? More precisely, what about a NG manifold will account for differences in pressure?
LMichaels
TVWBB 1-Star Olympian
Mike, Weber will not sell you those parts. You will need to find them used or from a 3rd party source.
Dave, Weber used different types of valves on the same manifold. I guess whoever could satisfy the need the cheapest. The most common valve on a Genesis is fixed orifice. IOW there is a main metering orifice that is the little jet that is inserted into the burner in the venturi area. But inside there is a cone shaped spool valve. On most of the Genesis (nearly all actually) it has 3 distinct "steps" low/med/high. When in high the only thing metering gas flow and pressure is the main orifice, low/med step that down. On a NG grill those openings are larger than the same things on an LP grill. So on an LP grill if you know how to read the flow chart for gas at your line pressure, and understand how many BTU are actually designed to flow at low/med settings you CAN modify the spool slightly to accommodate the change from LP to NG. Conversely, on a NG grill those openings are already so large that you cannot rejet the main orifice and expect proper flow on low/med as those openings will allow nearly unfettered flow of gas and you will have no temperature control.
In order to do a modification SAFELY (unlike the crooks who sell conversion "kits" on Flea Bay and such), you need to know how the gas is distributed in your home. I mention this because I have come across homes in Minnesota where the gas is sent through small diameter copper lines at high pressure, than at each appliance it has to be adapted to proper fittings and a regulator has to be used at each appliance to reduce pressure to 7"WC. I don't know if this is unique to MN or not so I really am hesitant to say "do this and you will get that". So once you are armed with the knowledge then you need the actual BTU flow rates for each burner for all settings. Then and ONLY then can you safely do a conversion. I think this is why Weber quit selling the pieces to convert the grill to a homeowner. Because say the owner bought the pieces, hooks the grill up to what he THINKS is a normal gas line and it's not. You now have the makings of a huge lawsuit.
I sure hope this has all clarified it. Maybe Chris could make this info a "sticky" so I don't have to retype all this every few months
(I hate typing)
Dave, Weber used different types of valves on the same manifold. I guess whoever could satisfy the need the cheapest. The most common valve on a Genesis is fixed orifice. IOW there is a main metering orifice that is the little jet that is inserted into the burner in the venturi area. But inside there is a cone shaped spool valve. On most of the Genesis (nearly all actually) it has 3 distinct "steps" low/med/high. When in high the only thing metering gas flow and pressure is the main orifice, low/med step that down. On a NG grill those openings are larger than the same things on an LP grill. So on an LP grill if you know how to read the flow chart for gas at your line pressure, and understand how many BTU are actually designed to flow at low/med settings you CAN modify the spool slightly to accommodate the change from LP to NG. Conversely, on a NG grill those openings are already so large that you cannot rejet the main orifice and expect proper flow on low/med as those openings will allow nearly unfettered flow of gas and you will have no temperature control.
In order to do a modification SAFELY (unlike the crooks who sell conversion "kits" on Flea Bay and such), you need to know how the gas is distributed in your home. I mention this because I have come across homes in Minnesota where the gas is sent through small diameter copper lines at high pressure, than at each appliance it has to be adapted to proper fittings and a regulator has to be used at each appliance to reduce pressure to 7"WC. I don't know if this is unique to MN or not so I really am hesitant to say "do this and you will get that". So once you are armed with the knowledge then you need the actual BTU flow rates for each burner for all settings. Then and ONLY then can you safely do a conversion. I think this is why Weber quit selling the pieces to convert the grill to a homeowner. Because say the owner bought the pieces, hooks the grill up to what he THINKS is a normal gas line and it's not. You now have the makings of a huge lawsuit.
I sure hope this has all clarified it. Maybe Chris could make this info a "sticky" so I don't have to retype all this every few months
(I hate typing)
Dave in KC
TVWBB Wizard
Larry, that is a pretty detailed explanation, however it does not help me understand why we can simply change the orifices or drill to the same size.
No one in my area - MO, and KS is using any adapter or regulator. I have done about a dozen NG to LP conversions, and two LP to NG conversions.
Some were manifold swaps, some were orifice swaps. One LP to NG was an orifice swap, one I simply bored out the orifice hole to the correct size. All of these resulted in nice blue flames, and all had good, even temp control, and functioned just as they did prior to the conversion. Isn't that what really matters in the end? Am I overlooking something? This is a very important subject to many of us. We want to be able to convert these in an affordable manner, however first and foremost we want to be able to do it safely. I think my way is safe. If it isn't, what have I done wrong?
No one in my area - MO, and KS is using any adapter or regulator. I have done about a dozen NG to LP conversions, and two LP to NG conversions.
Some were manifold swaps, some were orifice swaps. One LP to NG was an orifice swap, one I simply bored out the orifice hole to the correct size. All of these resulted in nice blue flames, and all had good, even temp control, and functioned just as they did prior to the conversion. Isn't that what really matters in the end? Am I overlooking something? This is a very important subject to many of us. We want to be able to convert these in an affordable manner, however first and foremost we want to be able to do it safely. I think my way is safe. If it isn't, what have I done wrong?
LMichaels
TVWBB 1-Star Olympian
Trouble is I don't have photos of the 2 different valve types, and I put out there about as much "detail" as I know how. Dave, I don't know what to tell you. Other than you probably got lucky. Or maybe you did it on a grill someone else had already fooled with and you reaped that error as a success. I think if you guys read what I put out there you will see there is A LOT of detail. Maybe Chris can jump in and help me like he did with the gas valve clean lube stuff. I am not holding any "secrets" just passing along what I certified licensed gas fitter friend taught me. I don't claim to be one I only play one on forums
Dave in KC
TVWBB Wizard
Also, is there any specific guide as to what grills received which valves?
LMichaels
TVWBB 1-Star Olympian
Nope, if you read my post it's a luck of the draw. Also I cannot comment on anything 2011 and on in Genesis because I have never looked at one. I have no interest in them due to the burner layout and no knowledge of Summits past the 2nd generation ones again because of no interest in them due to poor build quality and being too complicated. So anything I refer to is ONLY for 1st and 2nd gen Summits, and ONLY side control Genesis grills.
Also to repeat you will not know what valves you have until you open them up and look at the spool valve.