General 3D Printing Thread


 
It's not a specific height where it stops extruding it's almost as if after it's been running for so long it stops. I tried printing this, auto repair in netfabb, sliced with slic3r settings below. When splitting with slicer and scaling the parts 200% it printed up to about half way through the cross, split and scaled to 150% almost made it to the top of the cross. I'm using this to hold my spool behind the lcd of the makerfarm i3 and there doesn't seem to be any kinking/binding in the filament path.

Code: 
# generated by Slic3r 0.9.9-dev on Sun Sep 29 00:59:35 2013
avoid_crossing_perimeters = 1
bed_size = 200,200
bed_temperature = 110
bottom_solid_layers = 3
bridge_acceleration = 0
bridge_fan_speed = 100
bridge_flow_ratio = 1
bridge_speed = 60
brim_width = 0
complete_objects = 0
cooling = 1
default_acceleration = 0
disable_fan_first_layers = 1
duplicate = 1
duplicate_distance = 6
duplicate_grid = 1,1
end_gcode = M104 S0 ; turn off temperature\nM140 S0; turn off bed\nG28 X0  ; home X axis\nM84     ; disable motors
external_perimeter_speed = 70%
external_perimeters_first = 0
extra_perimeters = 1
extruder_clearance_height = 20
extruder_clearance_radius = 20
extruder_offset = 0x0
extrusion_axis = E
extrusion_multiplier = 1
extrusion_width = 0
fan_always_on = 0
fan_below_layer_time = 60
filament_diameter = 3
fill_angle = 45
fill_density = 0.25
fill_pattern = honeycomb
first_layer_bed_temperature = 110
first_layer_extrusion_width = 200%
first_layer_height = 0.35
first_layer_speed = 30%
first_layer_temperature = 230
g0 = 0
gap_fill_speed = 20
gcode_arcs = 0
gcode_comments = 0
gcode_flavor = reprap
infill_acceleration = 0
infill_every_layers = 10
infill_extruder = 1
infill_extrusion_width = 0
infill_first = 0
infill_only_where_needed = 0
infill_speed = 30
layer_gcode = 
layer_height = 0.25
max_fan_speed = 100
min_fan_speed = 35
min_print_speed = 10
min_skirt_length = 0
notes = 
nozzle_diameter = 0.35
only_retract_when_crossing_perimeters = 1
output_filename_format = [input_filename_base].gcode
perimeter_acceleration = 0
perimeter_extruder = 1
perimeter_extrusion_width = 0
perimeter_speed = 15
perimeters = 3
post_process = 
print_center = 100,100
raft_layers = 0
randomize_start = 0
resolution = 0
retract_before_travel = 2
retract_layer_change = 1
retract_length = 1
retract_length_toolchange = 10
retract_lift = 0
retract_restart_extra = 0
retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0
retract_speed = 30
rotate = 0
scale = 1
skirt_distance = 6
skirt_height = 1
skirts = 1
slowdown_below_layer_time = 30
small_perimeter_speed = 30
solid_fill_pattern = rectilinear
solid_infill_below_area = 70
solid_infill_every_layers = 0
solid_infill_extrusion_width = 0
solid_infill_speed = 60
start_gcode = G28 ; home all axes
support_material = 0
support_material_angle = 0
support_material_enforce_layers = 0
support_material_extruder = 1
support_material_extrusion_width = 0
support_material_interface_layers = 0
support_material_interface_spacing = 0
support_material_pattern = rectilinear
support_material_spacing = 2.5
support_material_speed = 60
support_material_threshold = 0
temperature = 230
threads = 2
toolchange_gcode = 
top_infill_extrusion_width = 0
top_solid_infill_speed = 50
top_solid_layers = 3
travel_speed = 130
use_relative_e_distances = 0
vibration_limit = 0
z_offset = 0
 
Yes, for the most part I'm using the slicer settings from makerfarm's website for the I3 8". I think the only thing I changed was the infill % from .4 to .25.
 
I have had similar issues when the extruder was to tight causing the hobbled bolt strip the filament. I resolved it by turning down the acceration on the extruder and tighting the extruder just enough to hold the filament when pulled. I might have adjusted the retraction lenght but not sure that was really the issue.
 
Think I may have figured it out, but won't know until I get my new head out some replacement ptfe tube. The tube inside my head seems to have been crimped on the nozzle end and after taking it out of the black housing I can't freely push filament through it. Almost as if the nozzle is too snug around the tubing. Here's a photo showing the ptfe is this normal? I have clipped the taper end off and have ordered replacement ptfe.

uc
 
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Are any of you guys using direct drive extruders? Considering this upgrade to possibly run dual extruders later down the line. Was looking at something like this...

 
I'm hoping somebody can help
Finally got printer built. Prusa I2
I am using the Marlin firmware on my RAMPS 1.4
My Z and X axis home correctly
My Y on the other hand moves to the back bumps the end stop then just quits working.
I have swapped end stops and that didn't make a difference
I can see that the end stop is triggered by running M119 but its like the bed doesn't care.
Its almost like it doesn't care the end stop is there. It hits it hard not like the gentle tap the Z and X give the endstop
 
Nick, re-check your Y endstop. Are you sure that it's wired C-NO and that it's connected to SIG and GND. Connecting to SIG and +5V or 5V and GND may cause this issue. Typically this is a spun-around 3-pin endstop connector at the RAMPS board.


JNeil, where did you get that J-head from? Is it a clone or from hotends.com? What version is it? MKIVB? It almost looks like the brass nozzle is out of spec and compressing the PTFE. It should be snug, but not difficult to insert. Also, the grub screw on top should not be over-tightened. I have never had an issue with a hotends.com jhead - always best to buy from the man who designed it. :D Actually, I did break a J-head once through sheer exuberance - completely my own stupid fault though.

How hot have you let your hotend get, and more importantly have you run M303 from a cold start? ? I wonder if your nozzle got too hot and degraded the PTFE sleeve. You could drill it out with a 1/8" bit to get back up and running as a temporarily measure if you haven't trimmed off too much.
 
I'm not sure where the hit end came from, but I think it's a real one. It came with my makerfarm kit. I'm running at 230 for abs. I was able to reshape the end and get it back in and am running now. I've ended up really clamping down the bearing guide against the hobbed bolt and so far so good. Currently printing a replacement bearing holder. Fingers crossed. I did order some replacement ptfe.
 
Rechecked endstops everything is fine with them. I even switched them arround
What I did this time is pluged the Y stepper and endstop into the X spots on the RAMPS Boards
I hit the home for X and the Y homed correctly. So Im thinking I might have a bad RAMPS board? or something wrong in the Marlin Firmware?
Any Ideas. Thanks for your help
 
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Good news/bad news. Good news it made it through the bearing guide, bad news it stopped extruding during the small gear. Guess I'll have to wait until my replacement hot end gets here.
 
Is it possible that the firmware has the Y axis or Y home direction backward? I know with mine it seems broken if that's not set right, it homes then won't move because it thinks that moving away from the endstop is into the negative Y direction.

Because I can't not be working on my printer always, I saw these pillow block bushings at lulzbot. My Y axis has always been a little tight so I decided to pick up a few and try them out. They are 4.5g vs about 15 for the LM78UU+mount so they're a little lighter, they're quieter, and they're self aligning (the inside bit can rotate). The axis slides much easier now, although I thought they'd be a little smother than they are. It still doesn't coast if I give it a gentle push.


I also bought an Aluminum ALU MK3 heatedbed. I thought this thing would be the tits but I am a little disappointed in it. The store page Reprap.me says "much lighter than PCB+Glass". However I should have done the math because 210mm x 210mm x 3.2mm of just aluminum is 381g. This MK3 weighs 409g. My current setup weighs 440g. That's not "much lighter" at all. Also it only pulled about 6.3A so I put the multimeter on it. 1.9 ohms. That's much less than my MK1 heatbed which pulled about 9A. This means it heats much more slowly. The big reason I got it was because the PCB+glass was warped and I never could get the little bit of sag out. On the plus side this appears to be flat. I'll see how flat once I get everything reassembled.

 
Bryan thanks for that thought. That kinda sounds like what is happening. What settings would I need to change? Im a little over whelmed in the firmware at the moment.

Edit: Tried changing directions and even moving endstop to Max and moving the endtop plysically to Y+ position on the RAMPS No go
If I dont Home Y I can move the Bed. But it only moves towards the endstop no matter if I hit the + or -
 
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Nick, initially I had a surprise when my y-axis (and x-axis) moved in the wrong direction and hit the far end and started skipping, I didnt comment on your issue because you said yours was moving toward the end stop and hit it when when you homed your machine, so that seems to be moving in the right direction. I had initially used the invert axis setting in the firmware to correct the problem but in the end I decided to flip the wires on the stepper motors (if you connect the stepper motor backward the motor will move in the opposite direction) so I dont have to worry about customizing the axis setting every time I update the firmware.

If I were you I would connect the x-axis motor to the y-axis driver and see if the x-axis will move properly in both directions (don't home the unit, just try to creep it a bit one way then the other, keep your hand on the power so you can pull the plug if things go too far). If the x-axis moves properly then you have a problem with your Y stepper or wiring, if the x-axis exhibits the same problem then I would plug the motors back in their normal position and then swap the polulu drivers between the y-axis and the x-axis and try again, if the problem moves to the x-axis then you have a bad polulu board.
 
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Bryan, so you tossed aside the linear bearings on your Y-axis in favor of these pillow block bushings? My y-axis can feel a little tight when the belt is on cause the stepper can add a lot of resistance (seemingly more when the printer is NOT powered, when powered up and motors off it seems to move easier). At any rate, I made some bushings to mount my linear bearings (not nearly as nice as those pillow blocks) and my y-axis moves like greased lightning when the belt is not connected.

I noticed a little sag on my heated bed too, but since I had the big variety pack of compression springs ($5 from home depot for a ton of springs) I just put a few springs under the heated bed to correct the sag. The sagging areas are slightly elevated now but when I clamp the glass down it pushes it flat and I think I am getting pretty good contact now.
 
Ralph
Tried Everything you suggessted same issues. Moved X stepper and end stop to Y possition on Ramps. Tried moving in Pronterface and would only move to left, even moves to left when you try to get it to go right.
Moved Pololu from X to Y and same issue. It seems to be something with the Y Ports on the RAMPS


Forum says I don't have rights to post attachments and its to long to post in text. Can I PM it to you guys?
 
Feel free to PM me any time, but it seems to me like a hardware issue.
When swapping the motors I would have just left the end stops in place (swap the motors but not the end stops, but don't drive the axis to the end when you test, just go back and fourth), it is best to just alter one variable at a time when trying to verify a hypothesis.

I think you are probably on the right track when you point at your ramps board, I had a couple issues with mine. First off it wouldn't read the hotend thermistor, the pin was pushed back a little bit and not soldered well. Also, from time to time my x-axis just wouldn't move (right from power up), if I re-seated the polulu driver it would work again. Some re-soldering on the RAMPS board fixed up these issues for me. If I were you I would pull the RAMPS board and inspect it carefully, specifically looking for a solder bridge or something in the y-axis area that might make the axis think a move in one direction is the other.
 
Looked all over the board cannot find any solder bridges. But the issues I'm having that's what its acting like. Thanks for everyone's help. I'm going to get a new board and go from there.
 
Maybe try looking at the top side of the board too, perhaps under the polulu or motor headers?

Do you have a MakerFarm kit? If so, Colin was great when it came to support for my issues. I would contact him about the issue if you've got one of his kits.
 
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