First Restoration- Need Advice - UPDATED *RESTORED*


 
JJecker said:
The slats are 1 x 3 red oak which are held together using 1/4 x 2 underneath. I did not attach them to the frame but instead measured and placed the 1/4 x 2's very tight against the inside frame that runs parallel with them which gave an extremely snug fit. Even though they are just held in with friction I was able to get a snug enough fit that they do not easily come out. They actually need to be pushed down with a little force to get them to click in place.

The bottom is two separate pieces because of the horizontal support bar. One set of two slats in the back and one set in the front.

Here is a picture with the yellow representing where the 1/4 x 2's are placed on the bottom of each shelf.View attachment 7237
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Thanks for the reply - I will be trying this out this weekend or next. I currently don't have a bottom shelf on mine because it was pretty rust gone, but I think this will be a very cool visual and practical upgrade. I guess I'll need to do the handle too to make this uniformed.
 
JJecker said:
The slats are 1 x 3 red oak which are held together using 1/4 x 2 underneath. I did not attach them to the frame but instead measured and placed the 1/4 x 2's very tight against the inside frame that runs parallel with them which gave an extremely snug fit. Even though they are just held in with friction I was able to get a snug enough fit that they do not easily come out. They actually need to be pushed down with a little force to get them to click in place.

The bottom is two separate pieces because of the horizontal support bar. One set of two slats in the back and one set in the front.

Here is a picture with the yellow representing where the 1/4 x 2's are placed on the bottom of each shelf.View attachment 7237
Click to expand...
I can see why some would prefer this method because it gives you an even surface area
 
the Z bars and wood slats do as well. The difference in height between the wood and z bars is negligible. But I see nothing wrong with the non Z bar solution at all.
 
Bruce said:
the Z bars and wood slats do as well. The difference in height between the wood and z bars is negligible. But I see nothing wrong with the non Z bar solution at all.
Click to expand...
I agree Bruce it’s not that big of a deal to me, but I can see how the slight height difference and gap between the ends of the wood and z bars could be annoying to some.
 
Bruce said:
How is the stability of the bottom legs without any cross members left to right on the grill?
Click to expand...

The cross member is still in place. With it there I was unable to join the slats to make one shelf on the bottom that would sit flush to the base so instead made two. Once shelf it behind the cross member and one is in front of it.

In the finished photo with the lid open you can see the cross member running under the second and third slat.
 
OK, I see that now. I forgot it was an older 2 burner with that middle cross bar.
 
I like your custom shelves, kind of like the 3"wide wood over the standard 1x2's. Is there a reason why you chose oak? Is there any considerations to be made by what type of wood is used for these custom grill shelves?
 
Rick W said:
I like your custom shelves, kind of like the 3"wide wood over the standard 1x2's. Is there a reason why you chose oak? Is there any considerations to be made by what type of wood is used for these custom grill shelves?
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No reason for the oak other than it was on hand from a bar top that I made recently. I did use an oil-based stain instead of a water-based stain since it would be outside.
 
Rick W said:
I like your custom shelves, kind of like the 3"wide wood over the standard 1x2's. Is there a reason why you chose oak? Is there any considerations to be made by what type of wood is used for these custom grill shelves?
Click to expand...
A lot of people like to use Cedar or Redwood due to its natural resistance to degrading and rotting outdoors.
 
The only issue you're going to have is oak hates moisture. So any dampness is gonna make it twist up like a prestzel
 
LMichaels said:
The only issue you're going to have is oak hates moisture. So any dampness is gonna make it twist up like a prestzel
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Yeah, I did put 4 coats of poly over it and it will sit under a covered porch but I expect it will need some TLC.
 
Anyone have one of those plastic side tables they'd like to sell? I bought one on Marketplace...when I went to pick the grill up, the guy tells me "Oh, I sold the side table to a guy...you still want the grill?" I got the grill for $15 added a new hose/regulator...and it's perfect with the stainless grates and the flavorizer bars were just dirty....But I was ticked he sold the side table!! I'll gladly pay for one and the shipping!!
 
Carol, I might be able to help you out. PM me and if you have a picture of what you want exactly, that would be helpful.
 
JJecker said:
Yeah, I did put 4 coats of poly over it and it will sit under a covered porch but I expect it will need some TLC.
Click to expand...

I love oak, too. Larry is right about the issues of using it outside, though. You mentioned “4 coats of poly.” I am not an expert, but from reading here there is “poly” urethane, which works well for interior wood; then there is “spar” urethane which is intended for outside use. If you used polyurethane you probably will see deterioration from UV and weather effects. Spar won’t last forever, but if liberally and well applied it can make oak a viable option for outside use. Certainly, good cedar - or if you are blessed with access, redwood - work even better outdoors.
 
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