Early 2000s Genesis Restoration... Need advice for rusted frame cross bar


 
LMichaels said:
Night and Day. Rustoleum is not even on the same page or even the same universe. There is a reason it's so cheap. Eastwood is expensive but worth every penny
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Good to know. In earlier threads seasoned restorers recommended the Rust Reformer which I have used. I saw the Eastwood product on Amazon for about $15 a can. That's not too high if it really stops rust.
 
Val Deale said:
Good to know. In earlier threads seasoned restorers recommended the Rust Reformer which I have used. I saw the Eastwood product on Amazon for about $15 a can. That's not too high if it really stops rust.
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I've used both. There is no comparison and frankly I would not waste my time even using Rust Reformer after trying it. I too thought a great cheaper alternative. But honestly a total waste of time and effort
 
Val Deale said:
Good to know. In earlier threads seasoned restorers recommended the Rust Reformer which I have used. I saw the Eastwood product on Amazon for about $15 a can. That's not too high if it really stops rust.
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The cheapest I could ever find is $30/can. Do you have a link to something more affordable that I might have overlooked?
 
Val Deale said:
Good to know. In earlier threads seasoned restorers recommended the Rust Reformer which I have used. I saw the Eastwood product on Amazon for about $15 a can. That's not too high if it really stops rust.
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I agree with Larry, at least to the extent that Eastwood is a much better product. That hasn't stopped me from using Rustoleum Rust Reformer, most of the time at least satisfactorily. $15 a can sounds pretty good for the Eastwood, though. I will just add that I personally had difficulty keeping the Eastwood spray product from not gumming up the nozzles, in spite of trying to clear them out after use by spraying upside down until clear. I think that is actually a reflection on the strong adherence of Eastwood's quality product, but it is something you will want to be extra careful about.

If you get and use Eastwood, how about giving us all a personal update on your experience using it?
 
Be careful on the eastwood stuff. They sell several Rust remediation products. Some are more like the fluid film and some more like the POR 15 in their use.
 
I am specifically working with Rust Encapsulator. Even with extensive use I've not had any clogging issues. I actually just used it on the Toyota Camry I bought from my buddy that had a tiny bit of rust in the lower front part of the front door bottom seams. Nothing bleeding through any more. I still have drips on my garage floor from like 10 years ago. I've even taken a chisel to it to try and get it off. Nothing doing. IDK what it is, but it's amazing. Honestly no offense to anyone but I think any issues are either due to buying the wrong product from Eastwood for the job at hand or not fully working within application guidelines of the product. Eastwood is a big distributor and sell many products. Especially to the automotive restoration crowd. Really not a lot of difference restoring cars and grills
 
TylerHonschopp said:
Should have known a post like this would bring out the purists and their nitpickyness ;) A good point though and something to keep in mind for next time.
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Personally, I don't have a problem with the approximately 1/16" extension the inserts probably add to each of the lower longerons. The reality is that they are attached over a foot and a half from the upper firebox support framing. I doubt a carpenter's square could see much deviation. Interestingly, if you do a search on this topic there is a lot of discussion on the different types of inserts and their effectiveness for steel channel framing repair. I actually really like the look of what you did with the small reveal of the threaded insert plate at the joint. Instead of painting it over, you show the plate and bolt which looks like a functional element. Your uncle is going love that grill.
 
Bruce said:
Larry, does that stuff require a top coat to protect from UV degradation like with Por15?
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Ya know I never looked Bruce. I just used the last can on the Camry and tossed it out :D Since I don't have any rusty things now I have no plans to buy it in the near future. So while a good question it's not one I have an answer for
 
LMichaels said:
A great alternative is Eastwood product with the extended nozzle on a hose that sprays in a 360 deg pattern. IMO it's better than POR15. You could clean the frame tubes with a 10 or 12 ga shotgun cleaning kit with brass brushes. Knock the loose stuff out, shoot some brake kleen solvent in there and flush them out. Blow them dry. Then use the Eastwood. After the Eastwood hardens then if wanted follow with the Fluid Film and you'd have a lifetime grill.
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I always wondered where you would get a long brush to go down the frame tubes. Is this what you use? -
 
Val Deale said:
Personally, I don't have a problem with the approximately 1/16" extension the inserts probably add to each of the lower longerons. The reality is that they are attached over a foot and a half from the upper firebox support framing. I doubt a carpenter's square could see much deviation. Interestingly, if you do a search on this topic there is a lot of discussion on the different types of inserts and their effectiveness for steel channel framing repair. I actually really like the look of what you did with the small reveal of the threaded insert plate at the joint. Instead of painting it over, you show the plate and bolt which looks like a functional element. Your uncle is going love that grill.
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Yeah, it's not really that big of a deal and I wasn't trying to make it one. Interestingly, Weber did experiment with using that style tubing connector on their grills before deciding on the ones you see. I have some of the ones that Tyler used that I got from a former Weber employee along with some other interesting parts and stories that went with them.
 
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