Burner Screws


 
I doubt they'd be an issue because of the zinc. But frankly I would only use stainless on anything in contact with the aluminum
 
I buy mine there too usually. I think I need to stock up for next season on some more of those as well as cook box bolts and manifold bolts. So, I will probably just do a bulk order and save on shipping.
 
DanHoo said:
I think the chance of galvanic corrosion is greater when moisture is readily available as in marine applications. This is where I learned to avoid using copper anti seize with aluminum and stainless fasteners.

Maybe it's not an issue in a cook box where its hot and greasy.

I use copper anti seize all the time on steel. The bottle I have is probably 30 years old.

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Dan,
I worked in aviation for 46 years and we use both copper and silver types on steel,aluminum, cast parts, on Jet Engines ,gearboxes you name it. The manufacture states which type to use on their equipment.
 
I have never one time tried to remove the burner tube bolts from a cook box, so none of this makes any sense to me and I've had to take the burner tubes out of a lot of cook boxes. I just don't want anybody to think that this is normal practice, because it's not, they are not meant to be removed.The bolts that hold the drip rails on are another story. You do have to remove those to replace rotted out drip tray rails and you can end up snapping those off if you aren't careful, though it's never happened to me. Last are the manifold bolts, if they don't want to come out of the cook box just leave them also. There's no reason to risk damaging anything trying too hard to get those out of they are stubborn.
 
Steve Hoch said:
I have never one time tried to remove the burner tube bolts from a cook box, so none of this makes any sense to me and I've had to take the burner tubes out of a lot of cook boxes. I just don't want anybody to think that this is normal practice, because it's not, they are not meant to be removed.The bolts that hold the drip rails on are another story. You do have to remove those to replace rotted out drip tray rails and you can end up snapping those off if you aren't careful, though it's never happened to me. Last are the manifold bolts, if they don't want to come out of the cook box just leave them also. There's no reason to risk damaging anything trying too hard to get those out of they are stubborn.
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Yea, even if there’s a lot of crud caked around the burner tube bolt and the burner tube won’t pull out, I’ve done this before:
Take a washcloth, wrapped it around the burner tube, then use vice grips gingerly on the washcloth (clamping the burner tube), and then tap tap tap the vice grips with a rubber mallet and the burner tube comes right out.
 
I can understand the protest I am just a little OCD and want them installed correctly. And I do not like it when they are all worn out and gnarled and then completely tightened down on the burners. I can understand they can break off but that is just a chance I take to get it done right. You do what you want and so will I.
 
I also ordered some Aluminum anti-seize for future use. I am also hoping this will be a more possible experience down the road. I have often wondered how ss bolts hold up on cook boxes using this method. Especially the large side mounting bolt. Do you all know if the side mounting bolt will seize if you don't use it?
 
They hold up just fine. Once I've installed SS (along with a little silver Never Seize) they work like a champ
 
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