A thing for redheads - ID and restoration


 
Rich,
New grills just don't have the same class and warmth like your beautiful conversion Genesis. That's my ideal set-up. I sure wish the right-side sliders were easy to obtain.
 
I'm not near a grill right now to look, but it seems like a LH swing up table could be switched over to be a RH table if you had all the parts.

on my Genesis 3 I found the propane tank hanger needed to be the bent arm version to not interfere with the slide so that might need attending to.
 
DanHoo said:
I'm not near a grill right now to look, but it seems like a LH swing up table could be switched over to be a RH table if you had all the parts.

on my Genesis 3 I found the propane tank hanger needed to be the bent arm version to not interfere with the slide so that might need attending to.
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I don't think so, I just looked at mine. The slide bar support has a locking notch in it and doesn't appear to be reversible.
 
Jon Tofte said:
Rich,
New grills just don't have the same class and warmth like your beautiful conversion Genesis. That's my ideal set-up. I sure wish the right-side sliders were easy to obtain.
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Yeah, I built the 2000 for ease of cleanup and maintenance. It doesn't get used to often anymore. But it's a five minute clean up when we do use it.
With the exception of the right side flip up those durawood slats are all over 20 years old and still look like new, no maintenance required.
The doner grill was a 3000 but I had no need for another side burner, the E320 has one and I have a small single burner butane camping stove if I need one.
If I ever got rid of greenie (Barbs term for the 2000) She would tan my hide and call me Clyde, that's her baby, we've had it for 24 years. It's stayed with us through five homes. Shes cooked a lot of protein and veggies on it.
 
JimV said:
Hey Steve....this thread has me all turned around......is this your work? I am trying to learn what type of wood and what stain was used......it looks rich rich rich!!!!
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Yes, that's mine. I was showing off the wood handle my friend made for me. All the wood is mahogany. I believe I used old masters gel stain (I don't recall the exact shade) and spar urethane to seal it.
 
Dissasembaru and cleaning:

not sure what to do about this inside coatingIMG_0721.jpg

after pressurewash
IMG_0722.jpg

IMG_0723.jpg
IMG_0724.jpg
IMG_0725.jpg
IMG_0726.jpg
cookbox hole looks clean
IMG_0727.jpgIMG_0728.jpgIMG_0729.jpg

will arrange sandblasting for the box and lid endcaps
IMG_0730.jpg
IMG_0731.jpg

slapped back together for storage
IMG_0732.jpg

some light oxidation on the top (claybar / wax cant get it off)
IMG_0733.jpg

shame about the rust spot in the corner
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Except for the grease tray it's doable. The burners look serviceable depending how deep you want to go in the restore if you want a show grill you've got a lot of work ahead of you. If it was me, I'd clean it up repair what's needed and make it a daily driver and make sure you are happy with it before I would go big bucks on a restore.
It's like how do you eat an elephant...one bite at a time.
 
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Ordered a lower tray from Samuel on the board - his looks to be in fine shape.

Planning on replacing all the wood.

Looks like I need to pull the frame all the way apart and tend to the more severe rust spots.

Probably going to hold off on buying wheels, control panel, tank scale, knobs until i find a donor grill for the side burner (hoping that grill will have some nicer salvageable parts).

Questions:

1. is the frame painted or powder coated or something else
2. the inside lid - whats the best way to deal with the material thats flaking off
3. i assume since im going through the motions i should just replace the burner tubes

any other concerns lmk but would appreciate any feedback
 
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I believe the frames were originally powder coated, but there is no reason to do anything but sand, treat for rust, and spray paint. Use something good and remember to use high heat paint for the upper frame where it touches or is close to the firebox.

For the inside of the lid many of us here like Simple Green as a cleaner and then lubricant for scraping the metal with a razor scraper. Get decent blades and swap them out OFTEN. You will be surprised how that stuff (carbon and burnt on grease) will peel off in a sheet revealing like-new porcelain.

EDIT: Forgot to say to follow up on the scraper with 0000 steel wool to get what is left.

If your burner tubes show deterioration, then, yea, go ahead and swap. That would be a relatively low cost replacement. If they are stainless and not deteriorated, I would just clean up and re-use.
 
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Robert Leland said:
Ordered a lower tray from Samuel on the board - his looks to be in fine shape.

Planning on replacing all the wood.

Looks like I need to pull the frame all the way apart and tend to the more severe rust spots.

Questions:

1. is the frame painted or powder coated or something else
2. the inside lid - whats the best way to deal with the material thats flaking off
3. i assume since im going through the motions i should just replace the burner tubes

any other concerns lmk but would appreciate any feedback
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Jon Tofte said:
I believe the frames were originally powder coated, but there is no reason to do anything but sand, treat for rust, and spray paint. Use something good and remember to use high heat paint for the upper frame where it touches or is close to the firebox.

For the inside of the lid many of us here like Simple Green as a cleaner and then lubricant for scraping the metal with a razor scraper. Get decent blades and swap them out OFTEN. You will be surprised how that stuff (carbon and burnt on grease) will peel off in a sheet revealing like-new porcelain.

If your burner tubes show deterioration, then, yea, go ahead and swap. That would be a relatively low cost replacement. If they are stainless and not deteriorated, I would just clean up and re-use.
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There are also some great videos in the sticky thread of the gas grill forum that Bruce and others made that are quite helpful in a restoration.
 
I wouldn’t throw out that old drip tray. You might have that grill long enough to where your bad one becomes your good one. Plus you can scrape and steel wool those as well.
 
Welcome Robert,
Wish I was in Florida right now, it's supposed to get below zero here tonight.
In regards to the information on the underside of the control panel, If you take it off and turn it over, I have had some success in reading the faded serial number by shining a black light on it. Somehow that black light reveals the ghost image that is left from the printed imaged that has faded. This will allow you to get the actual serial number for this grill (assuming that it is original to the grill). This has worked for me several times with older grill that I have picked up and have no visible numbers on the control panel sticker. Let me know if this works.
 
THyde said:
I wouldn’t throw out that old drip tray. You might have that grill long enough to where your bad one becomes your good one. Plus you can scrape and steel wool those as well.
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I've had success filling the rust holes with metal paste such as JB weld, sanding and repainting.20211008_153838.jpg
 
Rick W said:
Welcome Robert,
Wish I was in Florida right now, it's supposed to get below zero here tonight.
In regards to the information on the underside of the control panel, If you take it off and turn it over, I have had some success in reading the faded serial number by shining a black light on it. Somehow that black light reveals the ghost image that is left from the printed imaged that has faded. This will allow you to get the actual serial number for this grill (assuming that it is original to the grill). This has worked for me several times with older grill that I have picked up and have no visible numbers on the control panel sticker. Let me know if this works.
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That worked

Model: 220000
Serial: ER284347
 
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