Terry Hlavaty
TVWBB Member
Nothings getting tweaked until I know what the WC pressure is, measured at multiple points.
TJH
2018-ish Genesis II E-210 NG will not get hot
- Thread starter Terry Hlavaty
- Start date
Nothings getting tweaked until I know what the WC pressure is, measured at multiple points.
TJH
DanHoo
TVWBB Olympian
The link on weber's site also has some troubleshooting tips on the connection line.
2. Were any flare fittings used to make the connection between the supply line and the quick disconnect hose? Flare fittings can cause damage to the “bridge” of the natural gas hose, resulting in a reduction of gas pressure to the grill. If you aren’t sure if you’ve got a flare fitting in your setup you can send a photo of your connection to support@weberstephen.com.
3. Is the "bridge" on the end of the hose (where it fits into the quick disconnect) broken or dented? If you aren’t sure if the bridge is damaged you can send a photo of your connection to support@weberstephen.com.
Terry Hlavaty
TVWBB Member
No copper tubing/flares anywhere in the house, everything is piped with iron pipe. The only flare connections that exist are the ones on the grill itself, the OEM flex hose that I installed is attached directly to the bulkhead fitting for the hose. The quick-disconnect used is the one supplied by Weber.
The "bridge" looks pretty good to me.
Keep the ideas coming! TJH
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Terry Hlavaty
TVWBB Member
6.5" where the wall stub exits, after the valve, and about a tenth lower at the end of the OEM 3/8" flex line, thru the QD.
HRG
ps: same pressure readings (6.4" WC) at the control valve ends, with or without the jets installed.
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Terry Hlavaty
TVWBB Member
An update: As far as I can tell, the original jets were marked 147, if that stands for 1.47mm (.0578") it seems right, since a #
54 (.055") drill was loose, and a #53 (.0595") drill would not fit the hole. I have now installed a set of aftermarket jets opened-up to 1/16" (.0625"), and see a little improvement. Once it gets dusk this evening, I'll adjust the air shutters, but the flames look pretty blue as they are now set. I may try .065" next.
As I mentioned in another thread, I did talk with Weber, they have no solution to a low-pressure situation, and are not able to provide a part # for just the jets. All my experimentation is going to be done with aftermarket ones, so I could go back to OEM if my NG supplier ever decides to get involved and fix the supply-side.
TJH
54 (.055") drill was loose, and a #53 (.0595") drill would not fit the hole. I have now installed a set of aftermarket jets opened-up to 1/16" (.0625"), and see a little improvement. Once it gets dusk this evening, I'll adjust the air shutters, but the flames look pretty blue as they are now set. I may try .065" next.
As I mentioned in another thread, I did talk with Weber, they have no solution to a low-pressure situation, and are not able to provide a part # for just the jets. All my experimentation is going to be done with aftermarket ones, so I could go back to OEM if my NG supplier ever decides to get involved and fix the supply-side.
TJH
Bruce
TVWBB 2-Star Olympian
Terry, your real solution is to get the correct pressure coming into the house. I am not sure if you tried that or not and mentioned it earlier in the thread, but I can see problems if you don't do it the right way. First is that you could be creating a dangerous situation with the grill. It is designed to work a certain way, with a specific gas at a specific pressure. Start changing that up and you can wind up with unintended results.
Second is that if you already have low pressure, using a gas grill will likely lower it even more while it is in use. Again, this is not a good situation.
I do hope you get the grill working the way you want it to and will be looking forward to your eventual solution.
Second is that if you already have low pressure, using a gas grill will likely lower it even more while it is in use. Again, this is not a good situation.
I do hope you get the grill working the way you want it to and will be looking forward to your eventual solution.
Terry Hlavaty
TVWBB Member
Bruce,
I've tried to get my NG supplier to correct the low-pressure problem, they refuse to address it. The good news is, I'm working under the guidance of a 30+ year Field Service Tech from the NG supplier in the Twin Cities, who is making sure I make smart, calculated changes.
If all else fails, maybe it's back to charcoal....
TJH
Ed P
TVWBB Platinum Member
I'm not sure I would completely trust the reading on a no-name Chinese pressure gauge without checking it against a known value. The only thing I have ever used to check gas pressure is a manometer similar to this one:
It just seems to be inherently more accurate than a mechanical pressure gauge at such low pressures, but I would rely on your what your Field Service guy tells you.
It just seems to be inherently more accurate than a mechanical pressure gauge at such low pressures, but I would rely on your what your Field Service guy tells you.
Terry Hlavaty
TVWBB Member
I also used a Yellow Jacket 0-15" WC kit, it was within a tenth of the other gauge. I took both gauges to a house with a Weber quick disconnect for their Spirit BBQ, and both read right at 7". The Yellow Jacket kit I used was the same one my friend was going to send me.
Feel free to keep slamming me, and telling me this is all on me. Bring your manometer over and test my house for yourself.
Ed P
TVWBB Platinum Member
If you are talking to me, I'm not slamming you at all. You have done your due diligence in checking your gauge against a known value. Gauge error is a very, very common thing. Haven't you ever seen in the movies where someone taps on a gauge to check on a reading and it moves, usually right before something blows up?
BTW, if you bought this gauge, which is similar to the one you pictured, one of the 2 reviews mention inaccuracy:
"Ordered two different models with different scales and each gave a different reading. Not sure which was inaccurate so returned both."
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Ed P
TVWBB Platinum Member
Also, in an earlier post:
Not sure where your feelings of being slammed are coming from, but it certainly doesn't encourage people to continue to contribute ideas. For myself, I'd like to know why your grill doesn't get hot enough, also.
Not sure where your feelings of being slammed are coming from, but it certainly doesn't encourage people to continue to contribute ideas. For myself, I'd like to know why your grill doesn't get hot enough, also.
Steve Hoch
TVWBB Platinum Member
It might be too much of a pain, but it would be interesting to know what the pressure is to one of your other gas appliances. Also, I find it slightly infuriating that Nicor won't come out and check it for you. They don't have a problem showing up every time someone improperly hooks up a dryer or water heater and has a leak.
Bruce
TVWBB 2-Star Olympian
Yah, call them up and tell them you smell gas every so often and you are extremely concerned. Tell them it seems to be coming from the hookup where you connect the grill.
I am sure you have been banging your head against the wall with them, but mention the words "safety issue" and stuff like that. Let them know you are annotating calls to them asking for someone to come out and check in case something happens. Maybe totally lie and tell them a couple times your gas stove has shut off with the gas still turned on.
Do you know if any neighbors have the same problem?
I am sure you have been banging your head against the wall with them, but mention the words "safety issue" and stuff like that. Let them know you are annotating calls to them asking for someone to come out and check in case something happens. Maybe totally lie and tell them a couple times your gas stove has shut off with the gas still turned on.
Do you know if any neighbors have the same problem?
LMichaels
TVWBB 1-Star Olympian
Well here is the thing. A regular gas appliance in the home operates at 4" IIRC to address just this kind of issue
BTW I did not see any "slamming" going on. I saw good people who were concerned. Now that being said a couple things I would do. Though first off having someone knowledgeable by your side is a HUGE help and it's how I learned.
1. I would raise holy hell with the gas company.
2. Failing that I would install an appliance regulator on the grill. IIRC they come set at 3 or 4 WC". They're labeled so you don't have to guess. Then I would get a new set of orifices and size them appropriately to that pressure and voila' you're all set. If Weber had not cheaped out and simply supplied it with a regulator in the first place it would not have this issue
BTW I did not see any "slamming" going on. I saw good people who were concerned. Now that being said a couple things I would do. Though first off having someone knowledgeable by your side is a HUGE help and it's how I learned.
1. I would raise holy hell with the gas company.
2. Failing that I would install an appliance regulator on the grill. IIRC they come set at 3 or 4 WC". They're labeled so you don't have to guess. Then I would get a new set of orifices and size them appropriately to that pressure and voila' you're all set. If Weber had not cheaped out and simply supplied it with a regulator in the first place it would not have this issue
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Terry Hlavaty
TVWBB Member
I actually mentioned that to the rep at Weber, and asked him to confirm that the larger grills (4+ burners) come with a regulator, and drop the pressure down to 3.5 or 4" and use larger orifices. If I get a little more improvement with the next step at .065", I'll call it good and get back to grillin'.
TJH
Terry Hlavaty
TVWBB Member
The good news is, I finally got Nicors' attention (NG Utility), they stopped by last evening to talk about my concern. The Tech's position is that anything from 6" to 6.5" WC is acceptable to them, so they will not be adjusting the regulator.
This morning I drilled the orifices out to .065", and with 45F outside temps, after a 15 minute soak, both burners full-on, the lid thermometer read 475F, my inside oven thermometer read right at 520F. These are the highest numbers I've even seen, and are much better than what I've had before, so I'm going to stop here. I finally did find a source for aftermarket orifices that have the conical seal areas like my OEM ones, once they show up I'll probably drill and use them, rather than the flat-seal style currently installed.
I really do appreciate everyone's input, and concern for my safety. TJH
Terry Hlavaty
TVWBB Member
I would say that the flame is about a 1/2" taller than it was originally. Image 0918 is with a .065" orifice, 0919 is with a .0625". I think I'm going back to the .0625's, I like the way it ignites a little better, not as aggressive a "woooosh".
TJH
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