Which burner tube kit for the 2000-2001 Genesis Gold C ?
- Thread starter George in NJ
- Start date
George in NJ
TVWBB Member
Hey by any chance the vertical bar that passes the gas to all three burners is sold seperately? Then again when a whole new burner set is about $20.00 why should i even care huh? I kept the old burner tubes and maybe will hit it with a grinder and a wire brush. Just curious.
Bruce
TVWBB 2-Star Olympian
George, I think you are talking about the manifold which supplies gas to all three valves and thus all three burners. Yes, they are sold seperately, but to buy a new one is cost prohibitive.
The three burners are cheap, around $20. If they are in good shape, there is no reason to hit them with a grinder and wire brush. But, if there are any problems with them or the cross over tube is trashed, then just buy new ones.
The three burners are cheap, around $20. If they are in good shape, there is no reason to hit them with a grinder and wire brush. But, if there are any problems with them or the cross over tube is trashed, then just buy new ones.
Jeff MA
TVWBB All-Star
Patrick,
I have two sets of 3609 burner tubes and one set of 7506 tubes for builds, both are genuine Weber products.
They are both the same length.
The 3609 tubes are made of a better grade of Stainless Steel and are non-magnetic.
Weber made them cheaper and changed the part # over. Not unlike the old porcelain coated steel drip pan vs the aluminum pan, just a cost cutting measure.
Jeff
I have two sets of 3609 burner tubes and one set of 7506 tubes for builds, both are genuine Weber products.
They are both the same length.
The 3609 tubes are made of a better grade of Stainless Steel and are non-magnetic.
Weber made them cheaper and changed the part # over. Not unlike the old porcelain coated steel drip pan vs the aluminum pan, just a cost cutting measure.
Jeff
LMichaels
TVWBB 2-Star Olympian
I use a Libman brush to clean my grates. I had used some other brushes. Genuine Weber, Charbroil, No Name ones and I did find a couple times stray bristles from them. One time to the point nearly swallowing one! But I have to say I think it's not an issue of being made of bristles per se' but what the while brush is made "of" namely wood. So the wooden head has holes drilled and a bundle of bristles is inserted. Over time, exposure to weather, heat from the hot grills, and general shrinkage of the wood causes the bristles to fall out of the head. The Libman is made of very hard, heavy and dense plastic. The process of bristle insertion is way different and while they may wear down I have never had them "break" or come off in any way. So Libman grill brushes will be my go to from now on. And, they're made right here in the US https://libman.com/collections/other-high-power-grill-brushes/
Jon Tofte
TVWBB 1-Star Olympian
Yeah, finding an unused porcelain coated drip pan is a needle in a haystack proposition. The only new, OEM one I had I sold with my Skyline (to my boss and friend, so it is all good
.) My next Skyline may have to make do with one of those newer style ones.Sometimes I think the bean counters at Weber (takes one to know one
, but I am still a PRODUCT guy) should read the copy that went with the first Weber Genesis. Note the lines about "[O]ne overriding goal in mind. QUALITY." materials they chose to use back in George's day
:
Last edited:
George in NJ
TVWBB Member
Bruce yup got the Stanbroil burners and installed as per previous post but the cheapo in me can't throw away things that are somewhat reusable. That's the only reason I asked about seperate manifold piece. I figured if it was like $5 or so then maybe worhtwhile. But wishful thinking. How can you beat a complete kit for less than $20 shipped.
Jeff MA
TVWBB All-Star
George,
Your old Burner Tubes are probably a better grade of Stainless then the replacement ones. If they are in decent shape and the Crossover Tube is the only thing wrong you can purchase it separately as Weber part #40822208 which is 13 1/2" long.
If by some chance the tube is 12 3/4" long it is Weber #85865.
Jeff
Last edited:
George in NJ
TVWBB Member
Jeff,
Thanks for the part #s. I actually kept the old burner tubes. It looks like for my model it's part # 40822208.
Thanks for the part #s. I actually kept the old burner tubes. It looks like for my model it's part # 40822208.
Jeff MA
TVWBB All-Star
John,
Yes, the 2000-2001 Genesis Platinum as well as Gold B/Cs are quite the odd-duck in the long line of Weber gas grills.
While they use a 5 bar setup they are not the same as the later production Genesis Silver B/C models.
The Silver's uses Flavorizer Bar part #7537 which is 22 1/2" length and 2 1/4" height.
The 2000-2001 Platinum/Gold use part #9913 which is 23 5/16" long and 3" height.
The height difference is to make up for the deeper Cook Box, like what is used in the x000 series line of grills.
It's not unlike when Weber came out with the Spirit 700/900 series in the 90's which was the first to use the shallow Cook Box as well as the same Flavorizer Bars of the not yet introduced Silver B/C.
I know...confusing.
Jeff
Yes, the 2000-2001 Genesis Platinum as well as Gold B/Cs are quite the odd-duck in the long line of Weber gas grills.
While they use a 5 bar setup they are not the same as the later production Genesis Silver B/C models.
The Silver's uses Flavorizer Bar part #7537 which is 22 1/2" length and 2 1/4" height.
The 2000-2001 Platinum/Gold use part #9913 which is 23 5/16" long and 3" height.
The height difference is to make up for the deeper Cook Box, like what is used in the x000 series line of grills.
It's not unlike when Weber came out with the Spirit 700/900 series in the 90's which was the first to use the shallow Cook Box as well as the same Flavorizer Bars of the not yet introduced Silver B/C.
I know...confusing.
Jeff
If the fireboxes are the same size, which is preferable - the 5 or 13 bar?
Most here generally will say the deeper box and 13 flavor bar provide a more even cook. However, this until has a similar deep box but is 5 bars. I have heard that the earlier model of this line came with 13 bars. But I’m not sure if the box is the same as a genny 1000.
hope others can chime in on this
Jeff MA
TVWBB All-Star
Speaking of Flavorizer Bars for the 2000-2001 Genesis Platinum's & Gold's...
I was in a store today and spotted these gems sitting on the shelf, three sets of Weber Stainless Flavorizer Bars, part #9913. They were labeled at $64.99 a set but judging from the dust on them they could be probably be haggled down in cost.
Jeff
I was in a store today and spotted these gems sitting on the shelf, three sets of Weber Stainless Flavorizer Bars, part #9913. They were labeled at $64.99 a set but judging from the dust on them they could be probably be haggled down in cost.
Jeff
RobM in So Cal
New member
Curious how you removed the valve burner mounting bolts on the right side of the box out? Looks like you only have one out. Mine are completely seized and I don't want to ruin the box.
Bruce
TVWBB 2-Star Olympian
Rob, if you are talking about the bolts that hold down the end of the burner tubes on the "Left" side of the fire box, they are not designed to be removed. They are simply place holders.
If you are talking about the manifold bolts on the right side, you best bet is penatrating oil on the nuts. It could very well be that they will not come off and you will have to simply twist them off and then remove the bolt from the cook box by drilling them out of carefully pounding them out. If there are actual nuts on the outside, then an impact wrench is a good bet to break them loose, but if you have wing nuts, that won't work.
If you are talking about the manifold bolts on the right side, you best bet is penatrating oil on the nuts. It could very well be that they will not come off and you will have to simply twist them off and then remove the bolt from the cook box by drilling them out of carefully pounding them out. If there are actual nuts on the outside, then an impact wrench is a good bet to break them loose, but if you have wing nuts, that won't work.
George in NJ
TVWBB Member
Rob,
Yes use some penetraing oil as Bruce mentioned and I was lucky. The bolts came out with a socket from inside the box. On the manifold side it was wing nuts so I used the pliers but didn't really need it.
It only looks like one bolt but the one closer to the front of the box is just camoflauged by the ash. Here's a different angle.
RobM in So Cal
New member
Ok, thanks yes you are right to use the penetrating oil. I used liquid wrench and 15 minutes later the worked loose. Thank you. I also, was very very stupid and thought I had the confidence of Bruce the Weber Gladiator and tried to remove the mounting bolt on the opposite side which lead to an even bigger problem in disguise. I think I will post images of that issue in the proper thread.