Where is the Smoke in the WSM, Aint no smoke in them thar Hills.


 
I don't think the BBQ restaurants use water either, but I was worried about the bark being too tough without water.
 
Rusty James said:
I don't think the BBQ restaurants use water either, but I was worried about the bark being too tough without water.
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Been reading Aaron Franklin (of Franklin's BBQ - apparently the best barbecue in america for 2015...*shrug*)

He is pretty insistent on the use of a water pan, and states that the higher humidity and moisture will help the smoke actually cling to and penetrate the meat:

He first quotes from the book Modernist Cuisine:
"Capturing the flavor of smoke...involves two challenges... The second challenge is keeping the food just wet enough to allow the volatile organics in those vapors to stick to the food, form a film on the surface, then diffuse deep inside."

He then goes on to explain
"To achieve the proper bark, we need to have a humid atmosphere inside the smoker. A humid environment both encourages the penetration of the smoke and slows the drying of the exterior of the meat, allowing it to smoke for longer. As the meat's exterior dries out, it becomes harder and harder for the smoke to penetrate. Yet it's also difficult for the smoke to adhere to the dried crust. That's why it's crucial to keep a water pan in the smoker at all times, which ensures ambient humidity thanks to the slow evaporation of the water"
-Franklin Barbecue; A Meat-Smoking Manifesto
 
I figured as much, but brisket is so popular in Texas, I thought he might be referring to beef in general.

Got to try me Texas brisket one day soon.
 
Sean R said:
Been reading Aaron Franklin (of Franklin's BBQ - apparently the best barbecue in america for 2015...*shrug*)

He is pretty insistent on the use of a water pan, and states that the higher humidity and moisture will help the smoke actually cling to and penetrate the meat:

He first quotes from the book Modernist Cuisine:
"Capturing the flavor of smoke...involves two challenges... The second challenge is keeping the food just wet enough to allow the volatile organics in those vapors to stick to the food, form a film on the surface, then diffuse deep inside."

He then goes on to explain
"To achieve the proper bark, we need to have a humid atmosphere inside the smoker. A humid environment both encourages the penetration of the smoke and slows the drying of the exterior of the meat, allowing it to smoke for longer. As the meat's exterior dries out, it becomes harder and harder for the smoke to penetrate. Yet it's also difficult for the smoke to adhere to the dried crust. That's why it's crucial to keep a water pan in the smoker at all times, which ensures ambient humidity thanks to the slow evaporation of the water"
-Franklin Barbecue; A Meat-Smoking Manifesto
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And Harry Soo recommends no water for faster formation of bark...:confused::confused::o
 
Mac LA said:
And Harry Soo recommends no water for faster formation of bark...:confused::confused::o
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Those two comments aren't necessarily at odds. Aaron isn't advising on the fastest formation of bark, or anything to do with speed, he is talking about conditions promote adhesion of smoke molecule.
In fact, he is saying
"A humid environment both encourages the penetration of the smoke and slows the drying of the exterior of the meat, allowing it to smoke for longer. "
Almost the opposite of Harry, letting it smoke for longer, more slowly forming bark allowing it to smoke for longer.

Aarons comments are about how to promote a more smokey flavor, while Harry is talking about better bark formation.
 
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Sean R said:
Those two comments aren't necessarily at odds. Aaron isn't advising on the fastest formation of bark, or anything to do with speed, he is talking about conditions promote adhesion of smoke molecule.
In fact, he is saying
"A humid environment both encourages the penetration of the smoke and slows the drying of the exterior of the meat, allowing it to smoke for longer. "
Almost the opposite of Harry, letting it smoke for longer, more slowly forming bark allowing it to smoke for longer.

Aarons comments are about how to promote a more smokey flavor, while Harry is talking about better bark formation.
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Fair enough, and good point.

I must admit, I overlooked the last part of the post when I first read on my phone.
:cheers:
 
I've been using Royal Oak lump in cooler weather, but I may give briquettes another go when the weather warms up, and shoot for 225 degree smoking temps. Smoking times may be longer, but maybe it will allow for more smoke flavor.
 
If you have fruit trees or your neighbors do collect the limbs that fall or that are trimmed and stack those to dry, muck better flavor smoke from theses over box store wood and the price is great.
 
Got a chance to smoke some ham and sausages with my new stash of naturally seasoned hickory wood on the 18" kettle grill, and I thought the wood's aroma was a bit sweeter and more noticeable. I'll know more when I do a long cook on the WSM.

EDIT: Be careful sawing long sticks of smoke wood on a miter saw. The blade locked up on a piece of wood and snapped the saw off of its base. It's a miracle I wasn't injured. These sticks are not exactly flat to begin with, and the wood can rock a bit during sawing.
 
Rusty, I'm a Carpenter and would never use one of my miter boxes to cut smoke wood.
Glad your alright!

Tim
 
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timothy said:
Rusty, I'm a Carpenter and would never use one of my miter boxes to cut smoke wood.
Glad your alright!

Tim
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Believe me, I was aware of keeping the wood stable, but I tried to cut the sticks down just a little too close near the end. There was just a few inches to hold on to, and that is where I made my mistake. A slightly dull blade may have played a hand in this accident too. I guess I'll have hand-saw the rest. A fine-tooth band saw might work if I had access to one.

In the mean time, I am looking for a round miter table (part number 977444-001) to repair this circa 1999 Craftsman 315.212300 compound miter saw with. I don't think Sears makes the part anymore, so I will have to scour the web, and local pawn shops, for a replacement part. I wonder if an old Ryobi part would work?
 
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Rusty James said:
In the mean time, I am looking for a round miter table (part number 977444-001) to repair this circa 1999 Craftsman 315.212300 compound miter saw with. I don't think Sears makes the part anymore, so I will have to scour the web, and local pawn shops, for a replacement part. I wonder if an old Ryobi part would work?
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Yea I dunno. Sears does or used to use Dewalt parts for the housing's on drills and impacts.(maybe MB's?)
I roached a few MB's at work and JB weld held on the fence and also the miter adjustment handle.

Tim
 
timothy said:
Yea I dunno. Sears does or used to use Dewalt parts for the housing's on drills and impacts.(maybe MB's?)
I roached a few MB's at work and JB weld held on the fence and also the miter adjustment handle.

Tim
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I was watching an episode of Power Block TV, and after these guys removed a car roof for repair, they reattached it using some sort of glue. I think they put single spot welds on each corner, but the roof was predominately held in place with glue! I never seen such a thing before. This stuff sets up fast, and if you don't wipe off the residue in time, you'll need a sander to remove it.

Have adhesives advanced that far? I was wondering if this glue would hold the miter saw's pivoting table together?
 
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Rusty James said:
Have adhesives advanced that far? I was wondering if this glue would hold the miter saw's pivoting table together?
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The repairs I did with the JB- weld were mostly minor/cosmetic..
Holding the saw to the table with glue is a recipe for disaster IMO ( a braze or weld would be better )
Without pics it's hard to say if you should toss it or save it.

Tim
 
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