What A Difference A DOOR Makes


 

Mike P.

TVWBB All-Star
I am learning to Smoke on my 18" WSM all over again. I've only had the WSM for 6 months now and maybe 25 smokes so far. After reading the good info from this site, I decided to replace the OEM door with the Cajun Bandit door because I was having a real problem maintaining temps. About 2 hours in, I would have to close all vents to keep the temps from jumping to 270* F or better. I had noticed in past smokes there was a lot of smoke leaking from the door and tried bending it several times. To a lesser extent I was also leaking around the top rim because I was running my Maverick ET 732 leads under the lid. Added a CB grommet.

I can not believe the difference it made in temp control! Like night and day difference! Vent control was almost like turning an oven knob. Faster response and the coals went out a lot quicker with all vents closed.

Here's a pic of the door with heavy smoke. A little leakage around the CB door in the upper corners:

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A pic of the grommet with ET 732 leads and smoke leakage. Notice the smoke stain around the lid rim. It's never had a chance to build up gunk because of the lid space:

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A closer view:

2reqwiw.jpg


Just wanted to share this info for anyone having similar problems.
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Mike, that's very interesting. I have a 1987 WSM and have more leakage from around the door than I'd like. It takes longer than it should for my fire to extinguish. I've reshaped the door over the years as much as I can, but after that, it could only get worse with more reshaping. Do you think that the Cajun Bandit grommet alone would help? Is the grommet opening of the CB the same as the WSM's?

Rita
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Rita Y:
Mike, that's very interesting. I have a 1987 WSM and have more leakage from around the door than I'd like. It takes longer than it should for my fire to extinguish. I've reshaped the door over the years as much as I can, but after that, it could only get worse with more reshaping. Do you think that the Cajun Bandit grommet alone would help? Is the grommet opening of the CB the same as the WSM's?

Rita </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Rita, Actually the door made all the difference but any way to tighten the WSM seems to help. CB makes two sized grommets, 1/4" and 3/8". I ordered the 3/8" because of the curved probe on the ET 732. I don't know for sure if the 1/4" would fit through the bracket hole on a WSM. I had to drill. I did notice that CB makes doors for both styles of WSMs. At this point I should mention that I'm not affiliated with CB in any way. When I find something that works well, I will pass it on. Thanks for the reply Rita!
 
Mike, thank you for your quick reply. I'm looking for a heat-proof rectangular grommet that I can paste around the opening of the WSM door, preferably without tools. I don't use the door opening for any cables. The cushioning should take care of the air leaks if I'm able to latch the door securely over the grommet.

Do you have a link for ordering the grommet?

Thanks,
Rita
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Rita Y:
Mike, thank you for your quick reply. I'm looking for a heat-proof rectangular grommet that I can paste around the opening of the WSM door, preferably without tools. I don't use the door opening for any cables. The cushioning should take care of the air leaks if I'm able to latch the door securely over the grommet.

Do you have a link for ordering the grommet?

Thanks,
Rita </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Yes Maam, I do. www.cajunbandit.com Now these grommets are round with a retaining bushing that tightens from the inside with supplied allen wrench.

You know, I found out about these modifications from the WSM Mods thread on this site. I'll bet they can provide you with a Great solution.
 
Get the Cajun Bandit replacement door. Much better and less hassle than installing then maintaining a gasket IMHO.

Bought a CB stainless steel door as they first came out a few years ago. Excellent tight fit out of the box. Only $22. Money well spent.
 
Mike, cable grommets from bbq guru were the first and only aftermarket items I've ever purchased for my wsm.

I've read several posts from guys that couldn't get the CB door to seal any better than the OE door, go glad it worked for ya.
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Dave Russell:
Mike, cable grommets from bbq guru were the first and only aftermarket items I've ever purchased for my wsm.

I've read several posts from guys that couldn't get the CB door to seal any better than the OE door, go glad it worked for ya. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Thanks for the replies. Dave, I've read some post like that too. One was sent back for an exchange. CB told him they get some on the bottom of the stack which deformed it. I can see that given the weight.
 
Air infiltration from any source will feed the flames, so to speak, and the sum total of air infiltration is going to matter. In addition to the door, be sure you have a handle on other possible sources or your efforts will be in vain.

With smoke marks around the lid, that's where I'd be looking as well. Can you rotate the lid to find a spot where it seems to seal better? I do that with the middle section and in addition, I've put a bead of high temperature silicone rubber around the bottom seam of the middle section:
DSC_1315-PP.JPG


That was enough to help me regain control of temperatures in my 18 1/2" WSM (as well as fiddling with the factory door to get best fit.)

I use a grommet similar to what is pictured above and I don't think it causes me any problems. If I were concerned about it, I'd just stick a bit of paper towel in it after I had the probes in place.
 
Thanks for the replies Guys.

Ken, after reading the posts about the door malfunctions in the WSM Mods thread, it looks like CB would make it right for you if you just inquired. This one fits "sung" for sure but it has not been a problem. I also think the thickness of the SS used helps the WSM by adding to more even heat distribution. I've only had one smoke so far but it was truly the difference between night and day compared to my previous smokes.

Hank, I agree 100% about air infiltration on the WSM. On this side of the world it's been more about keeping temps down than up. Again from the WSM Mods thread (where maybe I should have posted this topic) There is a good post about using Nomex seals around the lid and base. I am considering this depending on how the current fix pans out. Hank, does your rig still come apart at the bottom or do you load coal and empty ash without removing the center? Also a Great point about rotating the lid. I will be experimenting with this.

Thanks again to ALL!
wsmsmile8gm.gif
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Mike David P:
Hank, I agree 100% about air infiltration on the WSM. On this side of the world it's been more about keeping temps down than up. Again from the WSM Mods thread (where maybe I should have posted this topic) There is a good post about using Nomex seals around the lid and base. I am considering this depending on how the current fix pans out. Hank, does your rig still come apart at the bottom or do you load coal and empty ash without removing the center? Also a Great point about rotating the lid. I will be experimenting with this.
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Hi Mike,
Keeping the temperature down was exactly what I accomplished with the extra seal. My rig still comes apart and this has no impact on how I use it. The bead of silicone just helps to close the gap between the bottom and middle sections. I still rotate the middle when I set up to equalize the gap. If I still had issues with runaway temperature, I would have added a bead to the top edge, but it proved to not be necessary.
 
I know the topic's shifted, but I have to say that when i got my cajun Bandit door temps became much more steady. I had windy days when I duct taped by old door to keep it from going crazy.
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Michael G. (Canada Mike):
I know the topic's shifted, but I have to say that when i got my cajun Bandit door temps became much more steady. I had windy days when I duct taped by old door to keep it from going crazy. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Michael, That's a very creative solution. Good old duct tape...1002 uses. Wish I would have thought of that.
 
[/QUOTE] Hi Mike,
Keeping the temperature down was exactly what I accomplished with the extra seal. My rig still comes apart and this has no impact on how I use it. The bead of silicone just helps to close the gap between the bottom and middle sections. I still rotate the middle when I set up to equalize the gap. If I still had issues with runaway temperature, I would have added a bead to the top edge, but it proved to not be necessary.[/QUOTE]

Hank, I'm confused (as usual
icon_confused.gif
) . If you run a bead of calk around the joining surfaces or your WSM, after the caulk sets, wouldn't you have to score it with a razor knife or the like for it to separate? Your pic looked like a well sealed bead of caulk but I might have missed something.

Thanks
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Mike David P:

Hank, I'm confused (as usual
icon_confused.gif
) . If you run a bead of calk around the joining surfaces or your WSM, after the caulk sets, wouldn't you have to score it with a razor knife or the like for it to separate? Your pic looked like a well sealed bead of caulk but I might have missed something.
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>Not at all - keep asking if my descriptions are not clear.

I put the bead on one of the surfaces (shown) and then gave it a couple days to cure before I assembled the WSM. The silicone rubber has some give so it can conform to the surface it presses against to help seal, but once cured it will not adhere. Does that make sense now?
 
To be honest I didn't have any trouble keeping steady temperatures with my standard door or my CB door. It was more of a watching the smoke leak out from around it that made me buy the CB door which was worse. The CB door is still on, still leaks but I still have no problems maintaining a steady temp. I guess it was more aesthetics when I was drinking beer and watching the smoke leak out than anything LOL. Ken
 
Oh and as far as taking up extra space in the grommets if using two probes per hole - aluminum foil, if you using one probe- golf tee wrapped in foil, Ken
 

 

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