Weber Genesis 2000 NG restore candidate?


 
That"s why I recommended hooking a bottle to the grill, no flavor bars or grates and observe the flame. Should be a blue sharp flame. Open the control valve slowly.
 
DavidK said:
@JSoberg aka pepa

Are you saying you have swing bar assemblies for Genesis x000 series?
Are they the slide type (that don't have to move the rod to the front leg)?

I'd love to purchase this hardware for a Genesis 1000 with a swing table on the left.
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Not sure what your saying , I only know of one kind that mounts to left side consisting of two rod retaining bars, one Z bar, and rod holder on end the square tubing , this being either a angle Iron clip or plastic that push into square tubing. I should have the new swing table rod retaining bars next week, Saw proto type and it looked great.
 
LMichaels-your NG conversion caution was well received. Likely the only time I'll be a one percenter, but I just spoke to the former/original owner who bought all conversion parts from Weber back when Weber did such things! All the parts are confirmed to be correct, orifices and all. He's looking for the paperwork that accompanied his NG conversion purchase.

I understand the positives and negatives of both LP and NG, and without starting a feud will both perform equally the same on the Genesis 2000? I can convert back to LP easily with my donor grill....
 
If properly done there is no difference in performance. If improperly done there is a HUGE difference and possibly safety issues
 
I've been reading the "Drab to Fab" restoration guide and wish to thank everyone for such comprehensive knowledge and generosity in sharing. What a resource!

I took the firebox off the Genesis 2000, and the donor Genesis 1000. I've included pictures of the 2000 frame. Can you evaluate what you would do? The left side bolt hole doesn't look terrible to me, but the "facia" rust needs some help. What do you recommend for the facia rust? What should I do with the "left side bolt". There is a small amount of rust on the bolt hole behind the fire box but it doesn't look too bad. Anything I should do there?

Thanks again!

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Fascia: That is the back of that panel, so not such a big deal.
Bolt hole on left side of cook box. That is pretty typical and it looks like just surface rust.
Corner on left side cross bar looks pretty rusty. If it is just surface rust, no big deal.
Bolt hole area where two pieces of frame join look to be surface rust.
What I would do on all those areas provided it is just surface rust and the integrity of the part is not compromises is that I would take an angle grinder with a wire cup brush to it. Get the rust out down to bare metal in those areas. Then hit them with some High Temp Rustoleum rust encapsulator. Then top coat them with Rustoleum High Temp Ultra semi gloss black paint. You can probably get by with non-hi temp paint on the fascia piece but it is pretty close to the cook box, so I would probably still go with hi temp there too.
 
Thanks Bruce- I'll do as you recommend. I believe the rust is minor, thankfully.

I was given the Gen 2000 and the 36 slats had been removed (but I have them). I've read that getting the slats into their correct places/spaces is a bit of a puzzle, plus I would have to refinish all the slats. I'm thinking of just getting new 1x2 and starting fresh. Anything I should consider going that route?

thanks again
 
I have done that. but nominal sizes have changed. you might find yourself adding one more slat and reducing the gap between them. When you do that you may have to redrill a few holes in the Z Bar. Right now you may have 1 5/8" the new slat might be 1 7/16" . It works out fine, I use washer, carpenter pencils , anything to create the right spacing. Or you could cut wide stock to duplicate the old ones. If there inn good shape just fill the old holes with a dowel, tooth picks or skewers with wood glue . Now your good to go.
 
JSoberg aka pepa said:
Not sure what your saying , I only know of one kind that mounts to left side consisting of two rod retaining bars, one Z bar, and rod holder on end the square tubing , this being either a angle Iron clip or plastic that push into square tubing. I should have the new swing table rod retaining bars next week, Saw proto type and it looked great.
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Parts are in.

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Tork T said:
Thanks Bruce- I'll do as you recommend. I believe the rust is minor, thankfully.

I was given the Gen 2000 and the 36 slats had been removed (but I have them). I've read that getting the slats into their correct places/spaces is a bit of a puzzle, plus I would have to refinish all the slats. I'm thinking of just getting new 1x2 and starting fresh. Anything I should consider going that route?

thanks again
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Yah, whenever I rehab a Genesis 1000, I mark the back sides of the slats before I remove them from the Z bars. That makes getting them back evenly a lot easier instead of playing the Rubics Cube game.
You can certainly buy new wood and make wood slats. If you have some wood working skills and tools, it is a breeze, but the key is finding the right wood pieces to start with. 1" thick stock is too big, even with the reduced actual size of wood boards. What you want is something around 5/8" thick or slightly thinner when finished. A lot of boards come in 3/4" thickness, but then you have to effectively sand away about 1/8". Doable but tedious unless you have the tools to make quick work of it. Then you have to decide what kind of wood and what kind of finish. These can run the gamut, but something like Cedar is naturally resistant to rotting and if you can find the right pieces, can have a very pretty grain and color. Others opt for oak or plain pine or mahogany, etc.... Then you can use a number of different finishes. A lot of people use Spar urethane. Some use Teak oil. Some even paint them. That is all up to you.

I actually bought cedar fence panels and ripped them to the correct slat width. The thickness of the panels was perfect after a light sanding. The picture below shows the back, unfinished side of the slats, but it also shows how the brackets go on the swing tables.
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Here is the finished side of the slats.

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The Lowe's cedar 1x2 might work for me. Thanks. I thought about using the original wood, and I still may try it, but I like the grain of a clear cedar.

I couldn't find a Rustoleum High Heat Restorer (rust encapsulator). I looked on the web and still couldn't find it. Do you have a pic or part number by any chance? I feel clueless.... but honestly I did look hard for the high heat version.

Weber Gold for sale $40..... side burner and all... I think I have caught Weberitis!
 
Was able to get all screws out from the slider rails using Bruce's impact wrench trick!!

I had the firebox sandblasted. I've read don't clean with any water solution, but it needs to be cleaned. What should I use to clean up sandblasting residue before the High Heat Rustoleum paint?

Thanks again- this forum is tremendous!!
 
I use 99% isopropyl (Rubbing) Alcohol. I have used regular 70% rubbing alcohol as well with good results. You can use Xylene too. I would think you could rinse them with water and then let them dry completely and then wipe down with the alcohol or Xylene as well. Unless they are really bad, just shake them off and use the alcohol or Xylene.
 
J Grotz said:
They locate, but do not hold down the burner tubes. You do not need to loosen or remove them in order to remove the burner tubes, unless a previous owner did something stupid.
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i just replaced my burners. I removed those exact screws and took a brass brush to it to get rid of the carbon build up and clean up the screws. Any other reason they shouldn't be touched? I made sure I didn't over torque or screw up the threads.
 
Much of the time they end up getting twisted off when removing them. YOu got lucky. But they are not intended to be removed. Just pull or pry the tubes out from under them, then clean them and the area and put the new tubes in.
 
Yes, than or isopropyl alcohol. But, on the frame, I clean it up well with a good degreasing cleaner like Simple Green and a green scrubby pad or #0000 steel wool. Then I rinse it good, let it dry good and then hit it will the alcohol or Xylene just before painting.
 
If you can (as Bruce did) get pure isopropyl it's fine. But don't go buying "off the shelf" stuff. One it's WAY expensive and two it's 30% water which is not good for paint prep. Just go to a home center and buy lacquer thinner. As long as the base paint is solid it will leave a VERY clean and nicely etched surface for the new paint. For your sand blasted parts it will cut through any residue and oils left and again leave you a perfectly prepped surface
 
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