Ver. 5 Aux. thermocouple/Servo board(Rotodamper) or stand alone board


 

John Bostwick

TVWBB Wizard
Hold off making ATM*****

Well, I thought I would post, the hopefully final version of the Auxiliary thermocouple board, Version 5. Sometime this weekend it will be tested to make sure the components fit correctly. The circuit works great, so the only unknown at the moment is to see if the locking 6 pin header Ralph and I choose to use, fits correctly and to make sure of any other unknowns.

Its been fun designing this little board with help from Ralph(Rotodamper). I learned a lot and I learned how much pain Bryan goes through making a much larger Heatermeter board. Eagle can be such a pain to work with sometimes

aexyis.png


Parts needed to complete

Aux. version 5

Newark TC connector

Deleted Osh link until locking servo/blower is corrected

When I have a chance, hopefully this weekend, I will write a how-to for adjusting the Ref. of the thermocouple amp.

I have also some other helpful boards, one of which I will be trying in a couple weeks and the other is a small single resistor board to be used to make better connection to the Heatermeter boards TC's 100k resistor and connecting it to a switch. The other board(s) that I will be testing in about 2 weeks, will be a modified Heatermeter board that will connect the Cat5 connectors unused wires (1,2,8) Wire 7 will still need a wire to connect it to the 100k resistor board, but it will be the only wire needed to be soldered, not counting other wires need for adding a switch to switch between the onboard TC and Aux. board TC. Wire 1 will be connected to the probe jack 1 and Wire 2 to probe 2 and wire 8 will be connected to ground.

100k Jumper board(3 boards shipped from OSH .80cents)
 
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Is there a parts list for the required jacks and plugs to complete this or am I just not seeing them? TIA
 
The last revision the holes for the header were to small and the header that was suppose to fit there would not fit anyways. The Eagle Cad footprint, that I thought was the correct part was not correct in its dimensions. So, I made another revision and I'm waiting on some boards from OSH. It should take a couple more weeks.

After, I receive the boards I will solder one up and send to Ralph to see if will work, if not, then we will just go back to the last revision and make the header holes bigger and do away with adding a locking header and just use a pin header.
 
Thanks for the update John

the header i had with my servo's is non locking so if you end up releasing that then it is all good :). For the ones that the holes were 2 small were the pads an ok size like could one drill them out or just way to small and if drilled all the pad would be gone as well?
 
Well, Ralph said he was able to make them a tad larger for a pin header, but had one or two them loose connection and had to jumper them.

If you pm me i can send ya one of the boards un the mail.
 
I almost forgot, i recieved an email today that the 5.1 boards wrer shipped today, so next week i will have some good boards.
 
The traces around the holes are small so you can't drill them very wide without wiping them out... If you have one of those mini drill bit sets with the exacto knife handle and go up to about #68 or #69 you can get the standard header in there with the traces intact, but you have to be real careful not to drill off center or snag the trace and rip it out. There is a trace that is on the other side of the board that jumpers ground from the first pin to the last pin, it didn't make connection but I don't think the trace got broken, I think solder wasn't able to flow to the other side of the board because the holes were so tight around the pins. (I even dipped the pins in flux before I installed it hoping that would help get the solder to flow) So I just put a jumper wire from the first to last pin, that's just fine.... The board is real nice, if not for the holes being too small on the header I would call this "the" one... The next one has the (locking) header offset to the side a bit, which I find less than ideal, I would much prefer it centered so the wire pull will be the same at 0% and 100% rather than lopsided... I am waiting to get a look at it and run a roto damper with it a bit before I make any pronouncements...
 

 

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