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Tired of running multiple water filter systems


 
Brad Olson said:
Larry, what's your water source? Private well or municipal system?
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Cherry Valley and Rockford all draw from the same Artesian aquifer. So it's municipal. It's surprisingly good water but incredibly hard. Almost like liquid gravel. I've tasted water other people who're on private wells have tapped into the same aquifer and it's incredibly good water (a little "irony" tasting) but REALLY good tasting water.
The issues come in (quality wise) from all the crap the municipalities do to it and add to it. And then the chlorination. If you don't pass the water at LEAST over a carbon filter it's smells like you opened a bottle of bleach. Which is one reason why right after the softener it runs through a whole house carbon/sediment filter. First to be a safety device in case my softener "pukes". (I had this happen once and believe me it's NOT pretty) So the filter has a clear housing and if anything happens I can see it.
The softened/carbon filtered water is fed to my RO system. And as noted I have a tap "pre-softener" going to the drinking system. So that system does not do anything but take out impurities, chemicals, lead, PFAS, and viruses/bacteria that might be present.
But that water is incredibly hard. I am constantly needing to clean the minerals off the drinking water faucet. It's a great system though and what comes out tastes incredibly good. I had even been running it to the fridge. But even there I was needing to deal with mineral deposits caking up on it. So, the RO system is very helpful.
I'd just never heard of remineralization filters up until this year. Which was a reason I'd kind of given up on RO. Due to possible damage (I never knew about and could not explain why my coffee makers would begin leaking from the heating elements). Makes me wonder what I may have been consuming in my coffee unknowingly :D
 
OK initial testing of the mineralization filter shows an initial boost from 10-12 up to 40. I think as the cartridge "settles in" a bit it should become better
 
OK so here is a head scratcher: I started brewing my coffee with the re-mineralized water. For the record the water is REALLY good. My reasoning behind all this? The water that was filtered only straight outta the tap (no softening or anything) brewed incredibly good coffee whether espresso, any of my drip machines, etc. And for the record it too was incredibly good to drink.
But, 2 things drove me to make this change. One, the desire to reduce my filter systems. Two, the very hard mineral dense water was scaling up my brewers badly. To the point the OXOs especially needed descaling every 2 to 3 weeks.
So now I've accomplished some lofty goals EXCEPT I don't think my coffee is brewing the same. It just seems a little "off". Not quite as robust, maybe even a touch "sour". Though I am having a very hard time deciphering that. Also noticed the grind bed is not passing water through the way it did. Almost like I'm grinding too finely.
Tips welcome, but tomorrow I'm gonna set the Baratza Forte 2 whole steps higher than Baratza recommends and what I was using. It's almost like the water is hitting the bed too quickly and not draining quickly enough
 
LMichaels said:
OK so here is a head scratcher: I started brewing my coffee with the re-mineralized water. For the record the water is REALLY good. My reasoning behind all this? The water that was filtered only straight outta the tap (no softening or anything) brewed incredibly good coffee whether espresso, any of my drip machines, etc. And for the record it too was incredibly good to drink.
But, 2 things drove me to make this change. One, the desire to reduce my filter systems. Two, the very hard mineral dense water was scaling up my brewers badly. To the point the OXOs especially needed descaling every 2 to 3 weeks.
So now I've accomplished some lofty goals EXCEPT I don't think my coffee is brewing the same. It just seems a little "off". Not quite as robust, maybe even a touch "sour". Though I am having a very hard time deciphering that. Also noticed the grind bed is not passing water through the way it did. Almost like I'm grinding too finely.
Tips welcome, but tomorrow I'm gonna set the Baratza Forte 2 whole steps higher than Baratza recommends and what I was using. It's almost like the water is hitting the bed too quickly and not draining quickly enough
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I'm not sure what "coffee machine" that you are having issues with but for my superautomatic when I was running oily beans thru it it created havic by plugging up the machine where I was getting poor flow. Cleaning the machine only improved marginally, the real fix was when I removed the stainless filter where the espresso exist. The top of the filter had considerable build up that I had to use a steel wool pad to bring it back to "normal".
 
LMichaels said:
OK so here is a head scratcher: I started brewing my coffee with the re-mineralized water. For the record the water is REALLY good. My reasoning behind all this? The water that was filtered only straight outta the tap (no softening or anything) brewed incredibly good coffee whether espresso, any of my drip machines, etc. And for the record it too was incredibly good to drink.
But, 2 things drove me to make this change. One, the desire to reduce my filter systems. Two, the very hard mineral dense water was scaling up my brewers badly. To the point the OXOs especially needed descaling every 2 to 3 weeks.
So now I've accomplished some lofty goals EXCEPT I don't think my coffee is brewing the same. It just seems a little "off". Not quite as robust, maybe even a touch "sour". Though I am having a very hard time deciphering that. Also noticed the grind bed is not passing water through the way it did. Almost like I'm grinding too finely.
Tips welcome, but tomorrow I'm gonna set the Baratza Forte 2 whole steps higher than Baratza recommends and what I was using. It's almost like the water is hitting the bed too quickly and not draining quickly enough
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You secretly want to be known as a "barista", right? ;)
 
Ray J. said:
I'm not sure what "coffee machine" that you are having issues with but for my superautomatic when I was running oily beans thru it it created havic by plugging up the machine where I was getting poor flow. Cleaning the machine only improved marginally, the real fix was when I removed the stainless filter where the espresso exist. The top of the filter had considerable build up that I had to use a steel wool pad to bring it back to "normal".
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I alternate mostly this one https://www.oxo.com/12-cup-coffee-maker.html and also this one https://www.breville.com/en-us/product/bdc450
Now to be fair I've not tried the Breville on the new filter system. Was going to make a change to my grind size going a step coarser. and seeing if that changes the characteristics. I was reading up on this "issue" and it seems using a lower mineral content water does change things. Apparently it causes the grinds to swell a bit more and can clog the filter a bit. So, I'll give larger grind a try.
I do have the espresso maker, however I rarely use it. Maybe once or twice a week is all
 
So I'm wondering who may know anything about the pressure tanks used on these RO systems. (the typical 3-4 gal ones). They come pre-charged to about 4 PSI when empty. I've noticed though I seem to have a severe flow dropoff after just a few oz of water. (for the record this has always been a major gripe I have with RO systems). Now, oddly the dropoff is not as great in the fridge's beverage center as it is at the sink. Not sure why. In any case because of the remineralization filter I wanted to be sure to have a "polishing" filter after the remineralization filter. Everything I've seen recommended this. Just a basic granular activated carbon one. Well out of the remineralization I go to a T fitting where one side goes directly to the fridge since it has a self contained filtration cartridge. The other side I sent to a polishing filter. Which then feeds the sink. Just seems like that side did not run very well. (this could be my interpretation of it). I did some looking and realized the initial final filter I bought was a bit "restrictive" only flowing 1/2 gal per minute. So I found a different one that uses the simple refill cartridges inside a plastic housing. And that runs 1 gal per minute. Installed and flushed. No change in flow! So on to Google AI and checked into what should bladder pressure be on a fully "charged" i.e. full but not running RO system. I got a variety of answers but most seemed to point that 40-50 PSI is considered best with some pointing out the pressure in the bladder should be adjusted to the water pressure that is "incoming" to the system. So, I installed a pressure gauge. 75 PSI on the input.
Now I found both tank's bladders to be at 32.5 PSI. So, I got the cycle pump out and set them to 42 PSI.
Better. But, I also saw "cautions" of not to over pressurize the bladder or it could rupture or decrease the water capacity, and yet others from noted water treatment mfgrs reporting the bladder pressure on a full system should match or be close to the static input side pressure.
I'm pullin' my balding head's remaining hair out!
Anyone ever messed with these things? For the record I am using 2 tanks. Supposedly this allows for close to double capacity and performance. Simply install a line between them and T that line for the pressure side of the system. Anyway I'm at a loss here
 
This Video should help you out. The pressure in the tank should be around 5 to 7 psi.
I ditched those small expensive filters that come with the refrigerator for a full size one that services both my refrigerators.
 
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Ray J. said:
This Video should help you out. The pressure in the tank should be around 5 to 7 psi.
I ditched those small expensive filters that come with the refrigerator for a full size one that services both my refrigerators.
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Well the issue with my fridge as with many is the filter is plumbed in a way you cannot use the fridge without the OEM filter. Re the 5-7 PSI that's what was in it. But, then as I read more they note that depending on incoming water pressure the "static" pressure may need to be increased to 10-15 or perhaps measuring the more "dynamic" with the system filled and pressurized.
All I know is with the tanks showing at 6 PSI static (empty no water) pressure flow rate is maddeningly (agonizingly) slow. I don't have 10 minutes extra in the AM trying to fill the coffee pot :D
 
LMichaels said:
Well I found out something interesting on all this. I did order this product https://uswatersystems.com/products...lization-filter-kit-with-mounting-bracket-3-8 great pricing on a made in USA product like this.
But then I also did a little more research re using PH adjusted and remineralized water for still being able to get clear ice and discovered this info
Reverse osmosis (RO) water, even after passing through a remineralization filter, can still produce clear ice. The remineralization filter adds back in some minerals that RO water removes, but it doesn't typically add back enough to significantly impact the clarity of the ice.
Here's why RO water, with or without remineralization, can make clear ice:
RO process removes impurities:
RO systems are very effective at removing dissolved solids, including minerals, that can cause cloudiness in ice.
Remineralization filter doesn't undo the RO process:
While remineralization filters add back some minerals, they don't remove the dissolved solids that RO water already eliminates. The minerals they add back are typically in lower concentrations than what's found in tap water, so they don't significantly impact the clarity of the ice.
Cloudiness is caused by dissolved solids:
The cloudiness in ice is primarily caused by the presence of dissolved minerals, not just the minerals themselves. When water freezes, these dissolved minerals are trapped in the ice, creating a cloudy effect.
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I would love to see pics of your set up. Im on a private well besides testing annualy we only have a newer watersoftner.
 
JimZ said:
I would love to see pics of your set up. Im on a private well besides testing annualy we only have a newer watersoftner.
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Sure, happy to oblige. I'll try and get some that aren't too "ugly" :D and either attach them here or PM them to ya
 
LMichaels said:
Well the issue with my fridge as with many is the filter is plumbed in a way you cannot use the fridge without the OEM filter.
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For my basement fridge this was the case as well. I just gutted everything and put in a quick connect fitting for ice maker/water dispenser.
Removing the factory filter also freed up room in my fridge.

For someone who can rebuild coffee grinders/mixers in your sleep this should be a piece of cake.;)
 
Ray J. said:
For my basement fridge this was the case as well. I just gutted everything and put in a quick connect fitting for ice maker/water dispenser.
Removing the factory filter also freed up room in my fridge.

For someone who can rebuild coffee grinders/mixers in your sleep this should be a piece of cake.;)
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My fridge is under warranty. For me, buying a $15 filter twice a year is WAY cheaper than any savings messing with my fridge might be. Besides, even if it signals it needs filter replaced, I can simply reset the indicator and not replace it. Boom issue solved :D One has to pick their battles carefully
 
Check for air leaks at the schrader valve and the internal bladder (several ways to do this dry and wet)

A few important pressures to note: pressure required for ice maker operation and RO system pressure at shutoff

I didn’t watch the whole video, but didn’t notice him checking pressure of his RO system at shutoff. Most RO willl have a valve to stop production when tank is “full” to save water - check this pressure.

I’m assuming his 5-7psi is off the tank itself which is probably based on a 50-70psi supply pressure - compression from 100% down to 10% volume. Since the RO shutoff is less than line pressure, you could optimize this but in the end it probably won’t amount to a significant difference in stored capacity

You can do most of these without taking tank offline by opening drinking faucet and measure height difference between faucet and tank (2.31ft of water = 1psi) 3ft counter with tank in counter base - add about 1psi to your reading

Also, be mindful of biofilm buildup in and downstream of your carbon filters
 
R Chin said:
You can do most of these without taking tank offline by opening drinking faucet and measure height difference between faucet and tank (2.31ft of water = 1psi) 3ft counter with tank in counter base - add about 1psi to your reading
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So, what does this translate to in words a mortal can understand? :D Totally lost me.
 
LMichaels said:
So, because of my needs/desires (I know first world problems), I really dislike having minerals in the water that makes my ice. So, I have an RO system specifically for my refrigerator. And I have a second filtration system to which I run water prior to the softening system (to keep the TDS) for drinking and making coffee. Though the RO water also runs to the beverage center in the fridge. So, I have been reading up on remineralization filters. For use after an RO system.
So, I am thinking of getting 2 "inline" ones. I can easily split the 2 lines on the back of my fridge, and keep one pure RO, to the icemakers, and a second one at the kitchen sink for drinking and making coffee/tea, espresso. Then I could cut back and use one RO system and water feed.
Anyone heard of this? Tried/done it?
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My water hits my softener first. My water softener has one large tank that has a charcoal filter that pulls out chlorine and sediment, then runs through the softening resin on the second large tank. This goes to my whole house from there. We have an RO system under sink that provides RO to the drinking tap. I added a remineralization filter to this system. However, the TDS from the remunerative RO system is only 27-32. I use Third Wave Water sachets and mix a gallon at a time of water I adjust the TDS in for my espresso machine and/or V60-pourover use.
 
Robert Terry said:
My water hits my softener first. My water softener has one large tank that has a charcoal filter that pulls out chlorine and sediment, then runs through the softening resin on the second large tank. This goes to my whole house from there. We have an RO system under sink that provides RO to the drinking tap. I added a remineralization filter to this system. However, the TDS from the remunerative RO system is only 27-32. I use Third Wave Water sachets and mix a gallon at a time of water I adjust the TDS in for my espresso machine and/or V60-pourover use.
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Interesting. The filter I bought is bringing mine up to 65-75 avg. And right now I think it's perfect for my needs. Though I would like to try some store bought bottled water (not spring water just the kind that's purified by RO and remineralized commercially) with my TDS meter and see what that compares like
 
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