Originally posted by KevinK:
...or just use DR, DI or DZ.
Serial numbers are just the two letter code stamped on the damper. Here's 's the list.
Will do.Originally posted by KevinK:
Let us know how the mod comes out for you!
Originally posted by Mike Batsarisakis:
Bryan,
The first mod has less holes in the bowl than the second mod. All other things remaining equal, like the same number of holes in the lid vent, would mean more air entering the bottom of the bowl in the second mod., therefore higher temps. That's my guestimate. I was just questioning what that temp difference between the two mods would be in a side by side comparison, to see if second mod would be worth doing. I can't imagine that the difference in temp would be that great anyway. Regards, Mike
YES, Correct! That was my point exactly! You can put 50 holes in the bottom if you want to, but if you can't flow it out through the top, it's pretty much a moot point, NO?Originally posted by Hayden McCall:
Question...if you have say 9 holes in the bottom vent...and 4 holes in the top vent...assuming all holes are of equal size...don't five of the holes on the bottom become redundant or useless? I mean...the kettle can only intake air an an equal level to what it expels up top. Even if it draws in the same amount of air through 9 holes that it lets go through 4....why not just drill four and the bottom and be done with it.
Lid on. I use the lid when grilling.Originally posted by Russell Y:
But.... With more holes, if you take the lid off, you are going to get an extra hot BBQ.
The legs are just aluminum, you can use the unibit to drill new holes in them, but a reg drill bit would be my first choice. The legs are thicker than the bowl and the Unibit is tapered, so if you do use the Unibit make sure to drill both sides of the legs, to get a non tapered hole.Originally posted by Dan H.:
do you happen to know off the top of your head what material the legs are and will the unibit be the tool of choice for drilling them also?