Screws for Genesis 1000 manifold.


 

Dustin Dorsey

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I decided to take apart and clean my manifold valves per the LMichaels instructions and stripped one of the screw faces of the tiny screws that go in them. I managed to get it out but I don't really wanna put it back in and I'm thinking I might just replace them all. There are 2 on each valve. I'm thinking it's a #3 or #4 and it's a finer thread size than anything that home depot or lowe's has. Anyone know what they are?

Edit. My guess is #4-48 1/2 inch long. I've got some calipers up at work.
 
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I don't know the size of those screws, but if you cant find replacements at a HomeDepot, menards, lowes, try a small hardware store like ACE Hardware. They tend to stock of lot of those hard to find parts, nuts, screws, bolts, pins, clips, etc....

I would probably just take the little fella down to the store and see if you can match it.
 
I think I'll check it out with calipers tomorrow. It looks like 56 threads per inch. With #4-56 not really being common, I'm now leaning #3-56. The difference is something like 1/100 of an inch. This is all, of course, assuming it's standard.
 
The manifolds on both of my vintage webers stick a bit so I had it on my radar to lubricate them as per LMichaels instructions. Now I'm kind of afraid to? Has anyone else suffered a stripped screw in doing this?

To the original poster - did you try contacting weber? They've been helpful to me in the recent past.
 
I think I messed up by using a #1 phillips driver. It looks like one but it really seems to be a #2 head. Mine were pretty rusty. You might hit them with some pb blaster. Its worth doing. Mine were seriously gunked up.
 
So it's for sure a #4-48 half inch if anyone was wondering. We actual had some that fit that came off an old typewriter. Otherwise, I'd have to order one. The head of the screw needs to be narrow enough to fit in the slot.
 
Thanks for the update. I will try to remember that for future reference, should I ever need to replace one.
 
So it's for sure a #4-48 half inch if anyone was wondering. We actual had some that fit that came off an old typewriter. Otherwise, I'd have to order one. The head of the screw needs to be narrow enough to fit in the slot.
Thanks for the super specific info on the screws! I ordered these on the Fastenal website, had them delivered to my local service center and avoided the comparatively massive shipping fees. They were 9 cents each. They fit perfectly and had the same exact head. I drilled out 3 rusted ones and have to say it wasn’t too difficult. Used a small bit, went slow and all three heads snapped off without any damage to the aluminum valve cover.
 
Thanks for the super specific info on the screws! I ordered these on the Fastenal website, had them delivered to my local service center and avoided the comparatively massive shipping fees. They were 9 cents each. They fit perfectly and had the same exact head. I drilled out 3 rusted ones and have to say it wasn’t too difficult. Used a small bit, went slow and all three heads snapped off without any damage to the aluminum valve cover.
Not sure what you're talking about and no pictures for reference. The manifold is held on with two screws, not three. The other thing is the factory screws on a Genesis 1000 manifold are stainless steel and don't rust. I'm not trying to be a jerk, but I have no idea what the point of this post is.
 
Back to the screw request, I thought I would add that an excellent place to buy such hardware in many alternate materials is on line at Bolt Depot.
I have used them many times for personal projects.
 
Can’t help with screw size, as I have spare parts here. I’ll be certain to check and know for future reference. But I have a helpful tip to Prevent the stripping. I mounted the manifold in a vise. I had soaked the screws with PB Blaster and Kroil ahead of time. I use quality screwdrivers, (Snap-On, #2, 12” long for leverage) and I dip the tip in valve grind compound(because I happen to have plenty for engine rebuilding). But it’s readily available in small containers and Worx wonders on Any screw/bolt removal. I suppose anything with a little grit could work, even toothpaste, just to give a little bite to prevent twist out. I also have an impact driver, but have never had to use it on the gas valves.

GLuck, Jay
 
Not sure what you're talking about and no pictures for reference. The manifold is held on with two screws, not three. The other thing is the factory screws on a Genesis 1000 manifold are stainless steel and don't rust. I'm not trying to be a jerk, but I have no idea what the point of this post is.
Indeed I was referring to the screws on the valve caps themselves. The project I picked up was quite rough and despite the originals possibly being stainless, they were rusted nice and tight to the aluminum valve cover.
 
Indeed I was referring to the screws on the valve caps themselves. The project I picked up was quite rough and despite the originals possibly being stainless, they were rusted nice and tight to the aluminum valve cover.
My apologies for not picking up on that originally. I have had quite a bit of trouble getting those screws out myself.
 

 

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