Restoring and Converting a 44" Vieluxe to NG


 
Thanks Chris. Funny to this day I don't know how to post a video to YouTube LOL. I did it once maybe 6-7 years ago and I never could find the video I posted but a friend of mine did. Greg, here ya go a very well done video for you
 
Larry here is how I post youtube videos to the forum:

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I'm sorry Bruce. Flew right over my head LOL. I can't even get to the point I know how to post on to YouTube to begin with let alone to TVWBB LOL
 
No problem Larry. I find that I just want to give up on trying to keep up with all the new technology. At some point I will and will probably be happier for it.
 
I'm finally getting around to converting my 56" LP Vieluxe to NG and have some questions I'm hoping members can help me with.

Vieluxe specified a 4.5 WC regular for the NG grills. The main burners are each rated at 12,500 BTU/hr.
I reference the chart and see that I should use a #50 drill size for this.
I understand that I should only use a hand twist drill bit, not my drill press - is this correct?
I watched a youtube video that said I should use a bit 2 sizes smaller than the desired hole to compensate for wobble but this seems overly cautious to me. Is this good advice?

Thanks in advance.
 
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Rob, I would go with the slightly smaller bit. You can always go bigger if they don't work out. Can't go smaller, though, if it is a flame thrower.
 
Rob Jenkins said:
I'm finally getting around to converting my 56" LP Vieluxe to NG and have some questions I'm hoping members can help me with.

Vieluxe specified a 4.5 WC regular for the NG grills. The main burners are each rated at 12,500 BTU/hr.
I reference the chart and see that I should use a #50 drill size for this.
I understand that I should only use a hand twist drill bit, not my drill press - is this correct?
I watched a youtube video that said I should use a bit 2 sizes smaller than the desired hole to compensate for wobble but this seems overly cautious to me. Is this good advice?

Thanks in advance.
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Definitely good advice. If you have a really good drill press and can hold the orifice blank securely, that could be better. If you can find them it's best to use a precision ream rather than twist bit. Better precision and less issues with any "wobble". But, you would need a VERY precise drill press not a big industrial thing like I have on my bench. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017PUR1Y/?tag=tvwb-20
Otherwise do it by hand and stick with the 2 size smaller. Also if you know how to use a manometer and you have a stable connection, most homes are 7" WC pressure and if you have a large stable supply line you can forego the second regulator and simply size for the 7" WC. YMMV. I have done many of these types of these conversions. And no matter how careful you are you will never get a hole precisely to the drill size you expect. You will likely find if you stay 2 size smaller than gauge the hole, it will be "right there" at the desired size
One other issue (unique to Weber) is they tend to use valves specialized for the fuel type and regardless of what you do with the main orifice the conversion will never work properly. Having not laid eyes on a Vieluxe in over 20 years I cannot say if that particular grill is known for this or not.
You can look and see if your valve spools have only 3 distinct settings or if it has a spiral valve (infinite) similar to your kitchen range.
When doing LP to NG you will never be able to get your low/med setting to work reliably if you have the 3 step. And this can cause you to have "flameouts" and possible fireball when running the grill at low or medium
 
Going back to post #10 and 12 on this thread, it looks like you determined these are CV valves. I haven't pulled mine apart yet but that would be a wise first step.
My drill press is nothing like the one you reference so it looks like hand drilling is the way to go. Not sure I could buy reams at a reasonable price considering they'd likely be used for one project. Is there an affordable option?
 
BTW - I purchased mine from a gas tech who had found it in a barn and restored it. He offered to size the orifices for natural gas when I purchased it but as I didn't have a gas line to my deck ready, I passed so its probably a safe bet that the valves are CV.
 
Rob Jenkins said:
BTW - I purchased mine from a gas tech who had found it in a barn and restored it. He offered to size the orifices for natural gas when I purchased it but as I didn't have a gas line to my deck ready, I passed so its probably a safe bet that the valves are CV.
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Don't count on that. He may not have known about Weber's "issues" on this thing. Weber could have made this easier like so many companies do. I.E. Many include a way to change a single main orifice and voila it's done. Or at the least simply the ones on each valve in the system. In any case don't assume someone else already checked on this. Gas is nothing to simply "assume"
And no I know of no "affordable" reams.
 
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