Replacing Burner Tubes in a 2008 Genesis E-310 LP (No Side Burner)


 
Excuse my additional questions here but this thread touches on two issues I'm looking at with my Genesis E-310 LP Blk, Model 93741001, 06/2008 as I look to replace the burner tubes.

1st pic, It was this thread or another that mentioned don't try to remove the screws (Thank you!). The middle tube is still shown in the pic but it is now loose with a little persistence.

2nd pic, blue arrows show the bolts that MUST be removed? I believe that was said but I was able to slide two of the tubes out but the middle tube doesn't seem possible. Sorry for looking for confirmation but those bolts may be difficult. I have no impact gun as I've seen suggested.

Thanks for any additional insights you can provide.

Dom
 

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Excuse my additional questions here but this thread touches on two issues I'm looking at with my Genesis E-310 LP Blk, Model 93741001, 06/2008 as I look to replace the burner tubes.

1st pic, It was this thread or another that mentioned don't try to remove the screws (Thank you!). The middle tube is still shown in the pic but it is now loose with a little persistence.

2nd pic, blue arrows show the bolts that MUST be removed? I believe that was said but I was able to slide two of the tubes out but the middle tube doesn't seem possible. Sorry for looking for confirmation but those bolts may be difficult. I have no impact gun as I've seen suggested.

Thanks for any additional insights you can provide.

Dom

To remove the burner tubes, you don't have to remove the bolts you have arrowed in blue....if you were wanting to paint the firebox, then you would want to remove those blow arrowed bolts.
 
Dominick:

If your planning to keep this grill going as your own, you might want to replace those two manifold screws with machine bolts. My 2007 has machine bolts, lockwashers, and nuts as original equipment. Makes life much easier. Also, see if you can remove the lid pins and at least loosen the two firebox bolts. If you do it annually, it is worth the few minutes it takes.
 
More pics. All 3 burner tubes are lit in the 4 pics below.

Link to short video of flame pattern. Sorry for the (seemingly) poor video quality. No idea why it’s so bright. Shows this way on Dropbox and Amazon but shows perfectly on my iPad and desktop computer.
Those tubes look good to me. They probably need cleaning, especially the screened in area buy the knobs. I would take them out and scrub them up and rinse them out with the hose paying attention to the screened area where the O2 comes in. Then try them again. If they work, save the new ones for the future.
 
Hey Greg something to keep in mind sometimes the burners that came with the grills were better quality then the current replacements. Specially on the older grills. I always like to check them with a magnet. If they lasted you 13 years I’m betting a magnet won’t stick.

I made the mistake once changed them out cause they were “old” and then the replacement actually rusted through quicker.

The Florida weather isn’t good on these grills and since we never put them away and use them year round they get abused.
Checked this out just now on 2008 genesis 310. Magnets don’t stick to old tubes but they do to tubes I just ordered from Weber.
 
Those tubes look good to me. They probably need cleaning, especially the screened in area buy the knobs. I would take them out and scrub them up and rinse them out with the hose paying attention to the screened area where the O2 comes in. Then try them again. If they work, save the new ones for the future.
Hey Joe, thanks for your input. I thoroughly brushed the burners but didn't touch the screens near the valve end of the tubes. I‘ll get the toothbrush out for that task. By the way, I swapped the original cast iron grates for the grill grates grates that I had on for the past few years. The old gal got up to 500 F in less than 15 minutes.
 
I successfully changed out my burners on Saturday. Since I couldn't wedge out the the middle burner I decided to remove the bolts. As was mentioned both bolts broke off. Ended up having to drill out the holes but it's done.

PS: Replacing flavorizer bars were a bit easier :)
 
Yah, those manifold bolts are designed to be removed. If you take them out, the burner swap is very simple. The only real issue is if they are corroded in place, you might wind up having to twist them off and drill them out. Just make sure you replace them with stainless steel bolts and nuts and some Never Sieze is a good idea too.
 
Yah, even if you do get them off the little screws on the other end without shearing them off, the tubes are still a pain to maneuver out. I am pretty sure if you actually read the instructions that come with replacement Weber burner tubes, you will find that they tell you to remove the manifold in order to replace the burner tubes.
 
This is a follow-up post to my original thread starter from March 7, 2021.

I purchased new burner tubes last year from grillparts.com (see my thread-starter). However, before I tackle swapping them out, thought I’d post 3, 15 second video clips of my original burners on all high, all medium and all low, shot this morning in the patio storage so no wind to influence the flame. I think they’re O.K. but more knowledgeable grillers might be of a different opinion.

Comments / opinions about the flame appearance would be appreciated.
 
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Greg: I think most use youtube.com for hosting videos. It seems to work well.

I really liked the looks of your flames on those burners in your video clips.
 
Greg, I enlarged the image and it looks like around the middle of each tube the holes are not quite as long as the rest. Slightly blocked. It might just be the video though. If they are slightly blocked, wire brush them some more or use a small jewellers screwdriver to open them up slightly. Not to big a hole though. They look like there is lots of life left in them yet.
 
Thank you Bruce and Richard for taking a look at the vids and rendering an opinion. I last brushed the tubes in the Fall when putting the Genesis away for the Winter. I’ll need to dig out the tools next weekend and give her a good brushing and cleaning before grilling season starts for me.
 
The bolts that hold the manifold on, on the right hand side of the firebox, yes, you do have to remove at least the nuts that hold the manifold on. My grill has wing nuts holding the manifold on there. On the left hand side, the screws that hold the far end of the burner tubes where the crossover tube goes, those you just leave in place. They have grooves under the screw head for the burner tube ends to slide into to hold them in place, so they never need to be removed. As for the manifold side bolts, if you remove the nuts (wing nuts or whatever they are on your grill) so you can slide out the manifold, you can just leave the bolts in place if they are frozen. If you want to paint the firebox and those bolts are frozen in place, you can just tape over the threads and paint away, oil the bolts and you should be good as new. I was just getting confused about which bolts folks were talking about so trying to clarify a bit. I hope this didn't just confuse the issue more.

Also, Greg, very nice looking grill, you have done a great job keeping it up! My experience is that it is easier to clean the burners with them out, and then I can really clean up the firebox better if I want to. I like to take a wire brush and scrub perpendicular to the burner tube length to clean those holes out good, then take a break and then do it again so that it's thorough. Yes, the older tubes were better quality and worth scrubbing. Yes also, new tubes are fine but they probably won't ultimately last as long as originals. I have two sets of tubes that I swap out from time to time so I can clean one set while using the other. Of course, I usually end up storing a dirty set until it's time to swap them out, but perhaps soon I will actually clean the spare set so that next time I do this it will take 45 fewer minutes :)
 

 

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