Recycling x000 Flavorizer Bars for Silver A


 
John-NY

John-NY

TVWBB Pro
I needed Flavorizer Bars for a Silver A but didn’t want to purchase any.

I realized I had the long x000 Stainless Steel Flavorizer Bars laying around from other grills. Since I already bought new ones for the x000 flips, I had the idea to cut and bend the used ones so they fit in the Silver A. It worked perfectly.

What I used:
- Reciprocating Saw with Metal Cutting Blade
- Jawhorse (to hold the bars for cutting and to bend them

Basically I measured the proper length for a Silver A Flavorizer Bar, put a bar into the Jawhorse and cut it to length with the reciprocating saw (marked the cut with a sharpie).

Then I placed the bar into the Jawhorse jaws and used the foot lever to “squish” the bar to the correct width (so that it fits in between the Silver A Flavorizer Bar slots in the cookbox).

I squished the bar a little bit 3 times, Left, Center, and Right.

I used the cutoff piece as a template to mark and cut the next Bar, and repeated for all 5 Flavorizer Bars.
I only attempted this because they were Stainless Steel. It worked perfectly.

Obviously if you need to, just substitute the reciprocating saw for your other favorite metal cutting tool, and the Jawhorse made bending a breeze but I’m sure there’s a bunch of other ways.

This would probably work for a Silver B also without having to squish them to width.

Not sure if anyone here does this so I just figured a lot of people probably throw out used bars and now maybe they can be recycled.

I guess my perspective for this is that most buyers (from my experience) don’t care at all what a Silver A condition is (i.e - Shiny Flavorizer Bars), and you can’t make a ton of profit from them, but there is a lot more upside profit-wise for having Shiny New in a x000.

Either way, not trying to start a discussion on selling theory, but just wanted to pass this along in case it helps someone.

Here’s a picture of the right end being “squished”:

IMG_8289.jpeg
 
Bruce said:
Cody, I find mine to be invaluable in doing rehabs.
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I am starting to dive a little deeper into getting the original burner tube screws out. Last couple I actually drilled them out (prior to sending to blasting) because they were so mis-shaped and just looked horrible.
 
LMichaels said:
Who looks in there beside a fanatic? :D
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It is just bothersome to me... and when I was working on cars, if I could see it, so could the customer. I sustained and grew a hell of a reputation in auto body. I get it that on a flip grill parts eat profit. I get it, that 10 minutes extra here, 10 minutes there, add up significantly and also cut into it. But I am all about the details. I probably go overboard for something I am just selling, but I enjoy it and I love the little details even if it takes me longer.
 
Cody,
I guess I can understand that, since I have been known to paint kettles on the badges red and some other items many don't even notice. My one concern is that if your attempt to drill out the old burner screws goes south, will you be out an otherwise good cookbox?
 
You guys that like those portable clamp type benches Costco has for $99 what appears to be a very nice one. IDK what they're called so I can't find a link. But if a Costco member check them out in the store
 
Jon Tofte said:
Cody,
I guess I can understand that, since I have been known to paint kettles on the badges red and some other items many don't even notice. My one concern is that if your attempt to drill out the old burner screws goes south, will you be out an otherwise good cookbox?
Click to expand...

I notice the added details, Jon. And that is what matters to me!

I actually may have stumbled on a much easier method. On the bottom of the cook box (on silver series), on the inside of the box with the screw head snapped off, I drilled a 1/8" hole next to the threads and out the bottom of the box. Flipped the box over and drilled the opposite side. Took a small punch and tapped the screw out. This whole process would likely have been MUCH easier with a Jawhorse. If the screw and washer still physically look fine, I will leave them alone.

I have also considered instead of tearing them down right away, using the scrape and burnout cleaning method, and while it is still hot, seeing if the screws will come out better.
 
If you're really intent on getting them out, instead of getting the entire box hot, just hit the "boss area" where the screws are in with a small torch. Not an Oxy Acetylene just a normal like a plumber's torch. Far better to concentrate a little heat right around the small area quickly
 
I thought that as well. But I like the idea of doing a good burn off after scraping. Not to say I couldn't hit that area with a little extra heat after
 
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