Recent $50 Q320 pickup


 
The ignitor piece I linked a few posts up worked for me. Fires right up. Good to go now.

I think I'm retiring from the lid grinding business, haha. I dislike it so much. I've called a couple classic car restoration places to see if they can sandblast the Q lids, but apparently their machines are too small.
 
i used a wire wheel on mine came out pretty good just did the bad parts then 2000 degree primer then 900 degree caliper paint
 

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PatrickG said:
i used a wire wheel on mine came out pretty good just did the bad parts then 2000 degree primer then 900 degree caliper paint
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That's not a bad idea to just got the bad parts. I did a whole lid inside and outside a couple weeks ago and swore to myself that was the last time.
 
Kyle in Woodstock said:
The ignitor piece I linked a few posts up worked for me. Fires right up. Good to go now.

I think I'm retiring from the lid grinding business, haha. I dislike it so much. I've called a couple classic car restoration places to see if they can sandblast the Q lids, but apparently their machines are too small.
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Try air craft paint stripper? Spray it on, wait for the coating to bubble, then rinse it off?
 
A Lee said:
Try air craft paint stripper? Spray it on, wait for the coating to bubble, then rinse it off?
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And where would you find that magic potion? Though I don't know if it would work since the paint on those is powder coat. But worth a try if not too expensive
 
It's so funny. Ever notice when they want to say something is "better" the buzz words are always "aircraft", "professional" and "commercial". FWIW I saw a couple notations that indicated these things will not take off powder coat. Not surprising since it's not a solvent based material. Maybe try good old cheap brake fluid. I know from experience it will remove the finish off a car. So perhaps the powder coat as well. It's a glycerin based material and hydroscopic so once it's curled the paint off it should clean off with soap and water and it's WAY cheaper
 
Brake fluid. Just plain old Dot 3 nothing fancy. It will melt the finish off most anything. No fumes either. Not flammable to speak of either.
 
LMichaels said:
And where would you find that magic potion? Though I don't know if it would work since the paint on those is powder coat. But worth a try if not too expensive
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Methylene chloride based aircraft stripper will remove powder coating.

I used the ProForm brand years ago. It's pricey stuff but it didn't take much to strip the coating. Use it outside and wear proper PPE. The chemicals are nasty.
 
LMichaels said:
It's so funny. Ever notice when they want to say something is "better" the buzz words are always "aircraft", "professional" and "commercial". FWIW I saw a couple notations that indicated these things will not take off powder coat. Not surprising since it's not a solvent based material. Maybe try good old cheap brake fluid. I know from experience it will remove the finish off a car. So perhaps the powder coat as well. It's a glycerin based material and hydroscopic so once it's curled the paint off it should clean off with soap and water and it's WAY cheaper
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It appears most complaints are about the newer environmentaly friendly generation of paint strippers that don't contain methylene chloride.
 
Bruce said:
Larry, so you think brake fluid and/or brake cleaner will strip a Q lid of the paint (powder coat) on the outside?

Methylene chloride can be had on Amazon for $46 per gallon.
https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B08BK8D9QD/tvwb-20
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Probably much cheaper to buy a hazardous material locally rather than from Amazon. I noticed some auto parts stores sold that airplane stripper stuff, but you have to read label to see if it contains the chemical you mentioned. I'm going to try and find some and will let you guys know how it goes.
 
Bruce said:
Larry, so you think brake fluid and/or brake cleaner will strip a Q lid of the paint (powder coat) on the outside?

Methylene chloride can be had on Amazon for $46 per gallon.
https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B08BK8D9QD/tvwb-20
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Not brake clean brake fluid. What you pour into the master cylinder. Nothing fancy plain old style Dot 2 or 3 is all you need. Not sure what's in it that makes that happen but I have spilled it accidentally on painted surfaces and it takes paint right off. It's somewhat viscous so it should cling pretty well if trying to do a lid. When I get around to painting my Qs I may just try it
 
Bruce said:
Just regular DOT 3 brake fluid? I have some of that and I have a broken Q lid. I might test it out, just because.
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Bruce, looks like you are not only TVWBB parts Depot, but now the refurbishment testing Lab as well. 😀

Good luck with stripping the powder coat, and Thanks for experimenting.

Richard.
 
I'vve spilled brake fluid on paint before and it has never stripped it. I bet if you leave it on long enough, the paint will be damaged but not loose enough to consider it stripped.
 
A Lee said:
I'vve spilled brake fluid on paint before and it has never stripped it. I bet if you leave it on long enough, the paint will be damaged but not loose enough to consider it stripped.
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Maybe it would at least break it down enough to make cup brushing it easier
 
From my own experience when I was a cub mechanic at a prestigious downtown Chicago Cadillac center. I was bleeding brakes and accidentally (and actually did not realize it until too late) spilled some fluid that got near my fender cover. So I did not realize it for a short while. Much to my horror when I was buttoning up, the paint on the fender was soft and wrinkled and literally wiped off with a cloth. They had to run the car quickly up to the 5th floor body shop, and do a super fast repaint, baked it off with heat lamps did the buff and final detail all before the customer finished paying the bill. A valuable lesson that was hard to live down
 
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