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Quick partial disassembly of Weber genesis 1000


 
If they are sticky at all I’ll pull apart and grease them up. I will drop a couple drops of 3 in 1 household oil on the stem of the valve to get them freed up a bit before disassembling, as well as a soaking overnight in penetrating oil.
 
John-NY said:
Personally I do this:

-Pressure washer first (optional)
-Soak in dawn + hot water
-Scrape with a grill wire brush scraper (I have a million since people include them with the grills they sell)
-Pressure wash again

This gets 95% of everything off.

If they were chipping and/or rusting underneath all the original crud, this will expose all that rust.

So then you’ll know if you need to buy new ones anyway.
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That worked great. Used the pressure washer followed by a dawn power wash (heavy duty) soak, brushed, then power wash again. They look fine and I do t think I’ll replace right away.

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Taking off the end caps on the lid revealed a chip in the red paint. It’s hidden by the end cap, could the exposed part rust at all? Anything to apply that can withstand the heat?
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I've had valves there was no way to get apart due such heavy corrosion. When that happens a tiny drop or 2 of good ol ATF mixed 50/50 with a bit of Marvel Mystery oil is my "go to" but I prefer and always try to do the job in a more befitting manner But, in a pinch you gotta do what you gotta do
 
Jeffrey W said:
On another I was trying to figure out what year this one was manufactured, the sticker on the control panel is very worn, looks like a ‘97
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I can't remember off the top of my head but I think there was only one or two years that they put the sticker on the end of the table like this. I think @Steve Hoch knows off the top of his head. I'd have to check mine when I get home.
 
Cody Bratton said:
If they are sticky at all I’ll pull apart and grease them up. I will drop a couple drops of 3 in 1 household oil on the stem of the valve to get them freed up a bit before disassembling, as well as a soaking overnight in penetrating oil.
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Does this help with the possibility of stripping those screws? Would a penetrating oil be better than WD40? I have wd40 and pb blaster at home, but don’t mind picking up something more suitable or specialized
 
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I haven't done any manifolds that need repainting so far. All the ones I've reused so far just needed to be cleaned and waxed. I know I do have some that will need repainting but I haven't had to use any of those yet.
 

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Jeffrey W said:
Does this help with the possibility of stripping those screws? Would a penetrating oil be better than WD40? I have wd40 and pb blaster at home, but don’t mind picking up something more suitable or specialized
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Yes. PB blaster would work great! I like tapping on the screwdriver while it’s on the screw a few times before trying to turn it. I’ve also found sometimes there’s a glue of some sort in the slots so I’ll scrape those too.
 
Cody Bratton said:
What years did they transfer from wood to durawood? My work grill has wood with an end sticker on it. Can’t read the tag though
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They made grills with wood slats all the way to the end. A lot of people think that durawood replaced real wood slats and that wasn't the case. Grills with durawood were considered to be upgraded models over the real wood versions. So the only question is when they started offering durawood models in addition to their real wood models. I don't actually know the answer to that question, though I believe it to be '94 or '95 when the durawood first appeared.
 
LMichaels said:
93 IIRC. As my dad's grill a 2000 he bought new in 93 had Durawood slats
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Here is what the grill looked like when I brought it home. Is that durawood?

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Here is a view showing where the serial number sticker is after taking off the control panel

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I played with the filters on the photo to bring out some of the writing. I can make out the 97, but do not know if this indicates the year

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Jeffrey W said:
Here is what the grill looked like when I brought it home. Is that durawood?

View attachment 116212

Here is a view showing where the serial number sticker is after taking off the control panel

View attachment 116213

I played with the filters on the photo to bring out some of the writing. I can make out the 97, but do not know if this indicates the year

View attachment 116214
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That 97 indicates the latest gas certification, not the model year. It does tell you the grill is at least a 1997 although I'm fairly certain it's a 1998 model with real wood slats and handle.
 
6 of my Genesis 1000 grills in line for restoration have the side sticker like this. Only two of them are legible and EE serial number signifying 1999.Screenshot_20250716_181213_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20250716_181224_Gallery.jpglooks like they put the serial number in the model number spot on one of them. Oops
 
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