Post your live HeaterMeter Cooks


 
The HM power supply? Those power supplies only have 2 prongs (one for AC hot and the other for the Neutral return). Would I possibly need to ground my HM ground (circuit card ground plane?) to my smoker chassis ground? On another note I did plug my smoker into my kill-a-watt meter so I could monitor kWh electric usage of my smoking session. I can't remember if my kill-a-watt has two or three prongs to the wall socket (3 prong should mean the smoker has a ground connection). The main issue here seems to follow this one particular probe. When I switched HM probe slots the noise stuck with that probe and I never noticed issues on any of the other probes. I will use your suggestions to tinker when I'm done with my smoke and see if I can make a difference. I'll try to remove the kill-a-watt current meter from my smoker first. I can also try to move my HM to battery power controls rather than wall socket power supply. If all the thoughts fall through the cracks I'll just return the probe for another (not a huge deal for me to do this).

I only hooked up 2 wires for blower control from my SSR to my HM (via CAT5). Is there another wire on that CAT5 connector Should I have grounded the blower ground to my smoker chassis ground as well as connecting it to the SSR connection?
 
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If its following the probe, then its the probe, not much you can do to fix that. I would check if the probe reads good in boiling water, and if it can read down to 32°, check in ice water.

Some probes are just flakey and or it has been exposed to water, then its time to get a new one.
 
4 Pork Butts live at http://bbq.chickenkiller.com .....

gzLpuy0l.jpg
 
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I have bad noise on probe 2. This confirms that I need to return it. I also had HM PID control fail today and shut off. I think my SSR got too hot. I'm gonna have to take the back apart and see what damage has happened.
 
Tony L-Iowa said:
I have bad noise on probe 2. This confirms that I need to return it. I also had HM PID control fail today and shut off. I think my SSR got too hot. I'm gonna have to take the back apart and see what damage has happened.
Click to expand...

Looks like your PID parameters need some calibration.
 
I've got friends in from the continent of Australia and put a brisket on last night. Things started off wonky w/ my servo damper and I kept changing the PID parameters without a lot of success. Finally, I figured that maybe I needed to open the top a bit more and all I did was spin it a tiny bit and things settled out a lot better from there.

B=0 P=5.5 I=0.007 D=6, fan on at max only, min=15% and max=50%

Finally_zps7wen6tnx.png


I'm going to play with PID setting a bit this morning and see if i can get it to respond a bit flatter--any suggestions on what to do looking at that based on current settings?
 
Just started a new cook, Meatloaf with new PID settings, any comments are apprciated. http://bbqpit.mooo.com
*update had trouble with probes reading right and new PID settings were not good, tweak some but need a longer cook to determine proper course of action.
 
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jj4fx0.jpg


Just testing a New Heatermeter with a 25CFM blower Rotodamper on a UDS, nothing on at the moment still tuning as im not used to a 25CFM.

The max blower speed 34%
PID(so far)
stock with a
I=0.00002
Full open/close only on RD
Thermocouple is also attached to the RD via the Aux TC board V6.1 with a -50 offset and a 6 foot cat5 cable

I forgot the link lol.

http://UDS.servebeer.com
 
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Beer Can Chicken

Nothing too fancy, but thought I'd share. Here is my setup:

ZbUeQW1.jpg


Here's the chicken going in. I will be adding some wings shortly:

pUAAu8T.jpg


I have a fan only setup with a BGE. It's cardboard with bacon duck tape!

4GuEJqZ.jpg


Here's the linky:

http://livebbq.duckdns.org:1024

I'm thinking of lower the target temp a bit. I set it to 250 because I have my TC probe up where the BGE thermometer is located and it's usually a higher temp there vs the grill temp.
 
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