P code SSP


 

BillJennings

TVWBB Member
I just got a P code SSP needs some TLC I'm looking to see if anyone might know where to get these caps see attached diagram and the bezel on the lid and thermometer #49 #35 #36 thank you for any help
 

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These are the End Caps I bought on Amazon:

End Caps on my SSP:

Congrats on the SSP. I fixed up an old SSP and love using it. Fun journey and folks here were so helpful! Maybe someone on here has an extra thermometer/bezel but if not, you can probably order them direct from Weber or somewhere like grillparts.com
 
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Bill, those plastic end caps are the same ones that a Genesis 1000 grill uses and they are still available from the various parts places online, at $10 apiece, just get the ones that Mike linked above.
 
She's a little rough but with a little love she'll be back to her glory this is one with no gas assist I appreciate the link and info I started cleaning her up tonight and she was FREE 😁 my nieces husband is going to sandblast and powder coat the frame for me at work for free 😁 I'll be posting pictures along the way ❤️
 

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She's a little rough but with a little love she'll be back to her glory this is one with no gas assist I appreciate the link and info I started cleaning her up tonight and she was FREE 😁 my nieces husband is going to sandblast and powder coat the frame for me at work for free 😁 I'll be posting pictures along the way ❤️
That looks solid for restoration. We love pics.
 
These are the End Caps I bought on Amazon:

End Caps on my SSP:

Congrats on the SSP. I fixed up an old SSP and love using it. Fun journey and folks here were so helpful! Maybe someone on here has an extra thermometer/bezel but if not, you can probably order them direct from Weber or somewhere like grillparts.com
I can't find a thread on restoring the stainless table pieces I know that people say bar keepers friend and I know you work with the grain but I've never done it and work better with instruction 😁
 
I can't find a thread on restoring the stainless table pieces I know that people say bar keepers friend and I know you work with the grain but I've never done it and work better with instruction 😁

I’m in the same boat as you. The stainless table pieces on my SSP are not perfect but cleaned up to look very good for being about a quarter century old. I have a bunch on shallow scratches and a few deeper pitting spots. I used a toothpick to dab very little silver paint into the pitted spots (then quickly wiped off excess) to help level and conceal them a little more. Not perfect but a little better. I didn’t do anything to the many shallow scratches.

I’ve looked online for some ways to really refinish the stainless to look more like new but haven’t done it for fear I might make the stainless worse by messing up the brushed grain. If you find a good way to restore the brushed stainless top pieces let us know.
 
I’m in the same boat as you. The stainless table pieces on my SSP are not perfect but cleaned up to look very good for being about a quarter century old. I have a bunch on shallow scratches and a few deeper pitting spots. I used a toothpick to dab very little silver paint into the pitted spots (then quickly wiped off excess) to help level and conceal them a little more. Not perfect but a little better. I didn’t do anything to the many shallow scratches.

I’ve looked online for some ways to really refinish the stainless to look more like new but haven’t done it for fear I might make the stainless worse by messing up the brushed grain. If you find a good way to restore the brushed stainless top pieces let us know.
Hey Mike I watched a bunch of YouTube videos on it and you can start with 100 grit sand paper only sanding with the grain they said to wet sand with this solution can't remember the name but you had to buy online I searched for replacement it's pb blaster so from 100 to 150 to220 all the way up to 2000 grit I'm only on 150 now I keep wiping to check progress long strokes they do say that you can pay special attention to the scratches at the end you buff it with a polish for stainless aluminum and other metals it's alot of work but when I'm done with mine they are going to look like mirrors harbor freight has a buffer on clearance for $29 but make sure to get the foam buffing pads they don't come with it that's the emblem I'm waiting for my frame it's being powder coated and I'm getting a new bowl
 
This isn't my first I've got over 50 kettles and have gotten quite a few others free that I clean and fix as needed and donate them to active duty military and veterans if they want through the American legion I belong to and I show them basics of how to use
 
Hey Mike I watched a bunch of YouTube videos on it and you can start with 100 grit sand paper only sanding with the grain they said to wet sand with this solution can't remember the name but you had to buy online I searched for replacement it's pb blaster so from 100 to 150 to220 all the way up to 2000 grit I'm only on 150 now I keep wiping to check progress long strokes they do say that you can pay special attention to the scratches at the end you buff it with a polish for stainless aluminum and other metals it's alot of work but when I'm done with mine they are going to look like mirrors harbor freight has a buffer on clearance for $29 but make sure to get the foam buffing pads they don't come with it that's the emblem I'm waiting for my frame it's being powder coated and I'm getting a new bowl
Thanks Bill. Let us see some pics when you refinish the steel table pieces. One of these days I may take shot at it.
 
This isn't my first I've got over 50 kettles and have gotten quite a few others free that I clean and fix as needed and donate them to active duty military and veterans if they want through the American legion I belong to and I show them basics of how to use
That is an awesome thing to do!
 
So my bowl was toast I had a green P code in my collection of kettles the ash sweep came right apart so happy with that gonna have the original ash sweep ring and bowl I'm in the process of restoring the stainless it's alot of work by hand but it's getting there on the bottom cross braces that holds two sides together the things that are inside the tube that the bolt goes into my nieces husband made a piece to get welded in there gonna be better than new I should have all my frame pieces back they'll be fixed and powder coated then the ring bowl and handle are going to get powder coated clear and the axle so no more rust on the axle and the ash bowl ring and handle will always look new everything will be put back together with stainless bolts nuts and washers the brackets to hold the bowl on will be the original ones it'll just be bolted on with stainless hopefully be done next week depending on my work schedule
 

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Update on my P code SSP green I've gotten all my frame parts back from powder coat looks beautiful the 2 cross braces that connects the two sides together my nephew welded in 1/4 inch plate drilled and tapped it I restored the name plate its got all new stainless steel hardware we cut the mounting brackets off the old black bowl the ash sweep came right out of the green kettle that I already had which was a P code I'm still working on the stainless table and the ash bowl and ring when I get them and the table to my liking I'm going to have them clear powder coated this will be better than new I've been really busy at work so haven't been able to do much
 

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Thanks Bill. Let us see some pics when you refinish the steel table pieces. One of these days I may take shot at it.
I'm getting closer I got the frame back from powder coat I'm still working on the stainless table and the ring and bowl for the one touch I had to have the bottom cross braces that connects the two sides together repaired welded in 1/4 inch plate drilled and tapped it I restored the emblem replaced the kettle with the same year a P code green we cut the brackets for attaching the bowl the thumb screw on the green kettle was only finger tight so I am able to reuse and all of the hardware is stainless
 

 

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