My weber spirit 700 scale is not showing accurate readings


 
Personally, I just use my scale as a tank holder. I do the shake test to get an idea how full it is. I always have a spare tank on hand, so running out mid cook is not a disaster.
That being said, it is probably rusty and full of gunk. If you really want to get it back in shape, then simply remove it from the frame (just two 7/16" bolts and nuts. Then you can really get to lubing it up and maybe even consider taking it apart and cleaning it really good. But, I would probably at least hit it hard with some brake/parts cleaner. Then a good lubricant like WD40. Once you get it cleaned up and lubed, put it back on and there should be a wing nut on it to calibrate the tank. Probably best to put an empty tank on it and calibrate the needle to read empty. Some tanks can be filled more than another so calibrating it with a full tank might not get you very accurate results. Plus, what really matters is the reading when it get close to or actually empty.

If you want to go all out, you can clean it up and repaint the whole thing as well.
That’s a good idea. I know it’s quite rusty in there so i will take it off and degrease it and then wd40 it up
 
I'm guessing that the OP just wants to get the scale working on a recently acquired Genesis. We don't know how far he wants to pursue it after that, but I think we have given him a good start. I'm awaiting the post from him that says,"It works now, thanks!"
I've got some uses for that pb graphite. I'll be looking into that.

Gerry
I will be taking the scale off. I probably won’t disassemble everything and remove all the rust. The scale works but reads incorrectly so I’m guessing it just needs to be calibrated. I tried to adjust the wing nut at the top but it’s pretty stuck so that’s my project for today
 
It works now! I took off the scale and greased the contact point of the spring. I also greased the screw to adjust the spring. Then I sprayed the spring with wd40 and even put a bit of turbine oil on it (can’t hurt) it works great now. I put an empty tank on and adjusted the top wing nut so the lever showed empty. Then I put an almost new tank on there and it’s reading just under full. Perfect. Next project is readjusting the thermometer
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    117.6 KB · Views: 6
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    112.5 KB · Views: 6
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    186.6 KB · Views: 6
  • 1BDF2627-4372-4D58-B024-09E3835FCC3E.jpeg
    1BDF2627-4372-4D58-B024-09E3835FCC3E.jpeg
    141 KB · Views: 6
  • AEA5A9E5-73F8-4F8B-81E0-E5FD92D7CA72.jpeg
    AEA5A9E5-73F8-4F8B-81E0-E5FD92D7CA72.jpeg
    144 KB · Views: 7
I like WD40. You guys are mean :D
Hey Larry, I have no disdain for WD 40, the stuff works for what I need most of the time.
I don’t find the scale “Dead nuts” accurate as a priority but, I also use charcoal way more often so, I look in the bag there is either enough or there isn’t. I like simple!
 
Personally I would not use WD 40, I rebuilt an 1100 for a friend take the tank scale off and you can get at the top and bottom to hit the spring which is most likely rusted I used https://blasterproducts.com/product/graphite-dry-lubricant/ this to me is a superior product but to each their own.

My friend wanted to keep the tank scale original when I did my 1000 which I gave to my daughter I bought the newer model which is a straight bolt in and works IMO way better than that lever thing if its a keeper worth the money. I find it to be quite accurate by the way have that on the Silver C and it was no different on the 1000. This was a good price maybe better from Weber who knows I think I actually bought mine for the 1000 from ebay. https://www.thepartsbiz.com/Weber-9...Xw1ePOdmTH1532jA5ux69ab9XbxHBpyxoCsPYQAvD_BwE

If Jeff checks in he has a 700 he can verify if it fits but I think it does.
Brian,
That PB Dry stuff looks like it would be a good addition to the arsenal for grill restorers. I do like Bruce's idea of first getting it clean with brake cleaner. Of course, Steve's method is the first-class solution. I have never gone that far, but I have several of the very original Weber scales from early Genesis grills (I think they say "Patent Pending" and the pointer is straight rather than having the "dogleg"). Those are unlikely to work again without having the time and patience that Steve has employed.
 
This stuff by Blaster is top notch . If you haven't tried it yet, you might want to consider it. I bought a can at the hardware store...the spray propellant died less than halfway through. Called Blaster...a human answered, apologized and shipped a new can to me in short order.
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20230125-114622_Chrome.jpg
    Screenshot_20230125-114622_Chrome.jpg
    66.1 KB · Views: 5
I didn’t bother with trying the disassembly route on my Summit project where on most things I went the extra mile. If it acts up badly after my clean and lubricant treatment, I guess I can revisit that. I very much admire the workmanship. Just haven’t been motivated enough to do it myself.
 
I think a liquid penetrant lubricant is better than a dry. Dry won't protect or penetrate the metal. Dry has it's place in some cases. Truly the best thing is to rip the scale apart, soak everything in rust remover, refinish every part and lube. A quick spray with WD40 or the Blaster stuff though, gets the job done faster :D
I don’t have rust remove on me right now but once I do, I know exactly how to take that scale apart. All that’s rusted is the spring and the screw and nut.
 
A long time ago I bought the gallon of WD40 in the metal can. No more issues with propellant because it came with a hand spray can. After I used that up, I switched to the gallon of PB Blaster in the metal can because it was on clearance at Home Depot. When you get into bigger jobs, this is the way to go. You can still keep a regular spray can as well for small jobs.
 

 

Back
Top