ChrisArgentino
TVWBB Fan
every since I bought this grill used, the scale shows half way full when the tank is empty. Is there any way to adjust this or fix it?
My weber spirit 700 scale is not showing accurate readings
- Thread starter ChrisArgentino
- Start date
ChrisArgentino
TVWBB Fan
Where should I put the oil? Will wd40 work?
I can try adjusting the wing nut. Last time I tried it was hard to turn. Do you think I should try turning it with the tank off?
ChrisArgentino
TVWBB Fan
So the wing it at the top adjusts the lever? So I can take the tank off, spray the inside and then put an empty tank on and adjust it so that it reads empty?
ChrisArgentino
TVWBB Fan
Ok thank you! I think I should also put an empty tank on and see if I can adjust it using the wing nut to the empty position
LMichaels
TVWBB 1-Star Olympian
IDK if it would read empty. But it's a start. They get quite rusty and hung up. WD40 won't hurt anything so give it a try
The wing nut (I think) adjusts the tension on the spring. So in addition to adjusting the spring, you have to reduce the friction elsewhere in the system to get repeatable results. There is a lot of rust evident, and that will cause more friction than when the scale was new. As you oil it, you might have to keep adjusting the spring with the wing nut as the oil works to free up the scale. Don’t forget to lube the two little wheels the tank rides up and down on. That could be a friction source as well.
All that being said, these tank scales aren’t all that accurate no matter what you do. They were good for a “rough estimate “.
Best to always have a spare full tank. (I’m sure you knew that)
Gerry
All that being said, these tank scales aren’t all that accurate no matter what you do. They were good for a “rough estimate “.
Best to always have a spare full tank. (I’m sure you knew that)
Gerry
Yes, always adjust to get a good reading at empty. That’s the only reading that counts!
Gerry
When my wife bought me a Genesis 1 for Christmas back in ‘91-92, she broke it down into pieces and wrapped them individually. The idea was that I wouldn’t know what I was getting, and I had a hundred gifts to unwrap.
I already suspected what I was getting after the first or second frame part, but the third gift she handed me was a wheel. She didn’t remember that the wheel said “Weber”.
Unfortunately she also took the scale apart too. Putting that together wasn’t in the manual. Damn thing never did read right!
Gerry
I already suspected what I was getting after the first or second frame part, but the third gift she handed me was a wheel. She didn’t remember that the wheel said “Weber”.
Unfortunately she also took the scale apart too. Putting that together wasn’t in the manual. Damn thing never did read right!
Gerry
Bruce
TVWBB 2-Star Olympian
Personally, I just use my scale as a tank holder. I do the shake test to get an idea how full it is. I always have a spare tank on hand, so running out mid cook is not a disaster.
That being said, it is probably rusty and full of gunk. If you really want to get it back in shape, then simply remove it from the frame (just two 7/16" bolts and nuts. Then you can really get to lubing it up and maybe even consider taking it apart and cleaning it really good. But, I would probably at least hit it hard with some brake/parts cleaner. Then a good lubricant like WD40. Once you get it cleaned up and lubed, put it back on and there should be a wing nut on it to calibrate the tank. Probably best to put an empty tank on it and calibrate the needle to read empty. Some tanks can be filled more than another so calibrating it with a full tank might not get you very accurate results. Plus, what really matters is the reading when it get close to or actually empty.
If you want to go all out, you can clean it up and repaint the whole thing as well.
That being said, it is probably rusty and full of gunk. If you really want to get it back in shape, then simply remove it from the frame (just two 7/16" bolts and nuts. Then you can really get to lubing it up and maybe even consider taking it apart and cleaning it really good. But, I would probably at least hit it hard with some brake/parts cleaner. Then a good lubricant like WD40. Once you get it cleaned up and lubed, put it back on and there should be a wing nut on it to calibrate the tank. Probably best to put an empty tank on it and calibrate the needle to read empty. Some tanks can be filled more than another so calibrating it with a full tank might not get you very accurate results. Plus, what really matters is the reading when it get close to or actually empty.
If you want to go all out, you can clean it up and repaint the whole thing as well.
Timothy F. Lewis
TVWBB 1-Star Olympian
I’m in Bruce’s camp, shake it(I nudge it with my foot and make sure it bobs a little), just have a spare tank and life is a lot easier!
Yup! There have been times where I didn't put the tank on the scale because the frame was a parallelogram from the weight of the tank.
Tank on the ground. Lift and shake with calibrated arms. Spare tank in the garage. Good to go!
I have since converted to natural gas, so I don't have to worry about propane tanks like a Troglodyte any more!
Gerry
Brian B Atlanta
TVWBB Gold Member
Personally I would not use WD 40, I rebuilt an 1100 for a friend take the tank scale off and you can get at the top and bottom to hit the spring which is most likely rusted I used https://blasterproducts.com/product/graphite-dry-lubricant/ this to me is a superior product but to each their own.
My friend wanted to keep the tank scale original when I did my 1000 which I gave to my daughter I bought the newer model which is a straight bolt in and works IMO way better than that lever thing if its a keeper worth the money. I find it to be quite accurate by the way have that on the Silver C and it was no different on the 1000. This was a good price maybe better from Weber who knows I think I actually bought mine for the 1000 from ebay. https://www.thepartsbiz.com/Weber-9...Xw1ePOdmTH1532jA5ux69ab9XbxHBpyxoCsPYQAvD_BwE
If Jeff checks in he has a 700 he can verify if it fits but I think it does.
My friend wanted to keep the tank scale original when I did my 1000 which I gave to my daughter I bought the newer model which is a straight bolt in and works IMO way better than that lever thing if its a keeper worth the money. I find it to be quite accurate by the way have that on the Silver C and it was no different on the 1000. This was a good price maybe better from Weber who knows I think I actually bought mine for the 1000 from ebay. https://www.thepartsbiz.com/Weber-9...Xw1ePOdmTH1532jA5ux69ab9XbxHBpyxoCsPYQAvD_BwE
If Jeff checks in he has a 700 he can verify if it fits but I think it does.
I agree that WD40 is kind of a cheap short term solution, it's a good start to free things up. WD40 is very light weight and won't last all too long.
After it's freed up, I might try spraying with Cosmoline to keep the exposed parts protected from rust, and a dry lube like you suggest for the contact areas (to keep dust and grit from adhering). However, for this I would probably be using a spray on lithium grease after the WD40 spray bomb and it would probably be good for a couple of years. Then clean and relube as needed. Just like anything else, it depends on the environment the grill is living in.
Gerry
After it's freed up, I might try spraying with Cosmoline to keep the exposed parts protected from rust, and a dry lube like you suggest for the contact areas (to keep dust and grit from adhering). However, for this I would probably be using a spray on lithium grease after the WD40 spray bomb and it would probably be good for a couple of years. Then clean and relube as needed. Just like anything else, it depends on the environment the grill is living in.
Gerry
Steve Hoch
TVWBB Diamond Member
I've stripped down and rebuilt two or three of these scales, it's a pretty straightforward process. Remove the scale from the grill and set it on an old cookie sheet. Spray the entire thing down with a good penetrant and let it soak for a day keeping everything wet. Then take a wire brush to all the parts, eventually the wing nut on top will loosen up enough to remove it. Now you can take the spring and bolt out and brush all the rust off of those parts. Once I get everything working smoothly again I clean and repaint everything to prevent further rust, eventually the bolt and spring inside the scale will give out due to deterioration from rust. The process for calibrating the scale is in the owner's manual, which you can find on Weber's website if you no longer have yours.
Brian B Atlanta
TVWBB Gold Member
Gerry good input but its like 6 bucks for the blaster stuff now and they also make a spray on lithium grease for about 6 bucks. Obviously you can use both for other stuff use the pb graphite all the time. Again spending someone else's money buy the new scale and be done with it.
Scott Smith
TVWBB Pro
If you can move it by hand and sticks in different positions with the same tank, then you know the problem is friction. I agree with Bruce that the scale is not that critical of a component, but if you want to get it working, the above from Bruce and Steve is good advice. Personally, I would start with the WD40/PBBlaster to loosen everything up and then finish with the spray lithium grease.
Down the road from me is a building with a sign that says "WD40 Technical Center".
Down the road from me is a building with a sign that says "WD40 Technical Center".
I'm guessing that the OP just wants to get the scale working on a recently acquired Genesis. We don't know how far he wants to pursue it after that, but I think we have given him a good start. I'm awaiting the post from him that says,"It works now, thanks!"
I've got some uses for that pb graphite. I'll be looking into that.
Gerry