Matching new wood planks to original handle?


 
DanJC

DanJC

TVWBB Fan
I have an original handle from a Genesis 2000, but need to create all new wood planks for the side tables.

Has anyone found a way to match these? Either by finding the wood and stain that matches the handle, or staining the handle to match new planks?

Thanks!
 
Matching them is going to be tough to do since they will be two different types of wood. I guess I would just try to get them close and not worry too much about it. Otherwise, it is just a case of trial and error with different stains.

I am not sure even what kind of wood that Weber used. I don't think it was Redwood, but maybe.
 
DanJC said:
I have an original handle from a Genesis 2000, but need to create all new wood planks for the side tables.

Has anyone found a way to match these? Either by finding the wood and stain that matches the handle, or staining the handle to match new planks?

Thanks!
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Not with a grill but with a cabinet that got damaged and I wanted to repair. I found a small local family owned specialty paint shop that actually mixed their own stain colours. I took a piece of the new wood that I had bought along with a piece of the damaged wood and they mixed and tested on the piece of new wood until it matched. It wasn’t perfect but so close if I didn’t tell you, you would not notice. Try taking the handle to a place like that if you can find one. Good luck!
 
Yes, this is a challenging part, for sure. I have wondered what wood Weber used for the handles, too. Seems to be different from the slats. I was blessed to have a friend make me some wood handles, and I had him make a couple out of red oak to use with grills I do with those slats. For the others I did not use cedar but I believe poplar, so even with new wood it won't be a simple match.
 
That was easy! :cool:

Actually, I think the gray is a nice look, too. I just wish you good get the handle to match better when using stain of any kind.
 
Took a break over the winter, but getting back to the rehab.

I found some redwood 1x2 at my local Ace which I think should work well, but they're unfinished. Is that something I can fix pretty easily w/ a sander? Or does it make more sense to just find finished wood?
 
I see no reason to avoid sanding, especially if you have power sander. Redwood is the gold standard for replacement slats.
 
So I assumed the slats were 1x2 because I've seen those recommended on this site. But I just measured another slat I have, and I'm seeing 5/8x1.5

How are people using 1x2s for these?
 
DanJC said:
I found some redwood 1x2 at my local Ace which I think should work well, but they're unfinished. Is that something I can fix pretty easily w/ a sander?
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Yes. I love my redwood slats.
img_3163-jpg.1965


img_3164-jpg.1964


img_3213-jpg.1966

I found sanding the slats by hand to be easier. It looks daunting, but it goes fast.
 
1X2 is the "nominal" size. The actual size of a 1X2 is 3/4" X 1 1/2". The Weber slats are about an 1/8" thinner, so new stock 1X2s have to be planed or sanded down if you want to match exactly. I know that at least Home Depot sells cedar boards for fences that are already 5/8" thick, but these must be cut for width.

www.bing.com

1x2 actual dimension - Bing

Intelligent search from Bing makes it easier to quickly find what you’re looking for and rewards you.
www.bing.com www.bing.com
 
p.s. It must be nice to be in California and be able to buy redwood :cool:! Couldn't get it in Florida, even from a small lumber yard that tried hard to order some for me. I haven't tried here in Indiana, but I expect the same issue. I did, however, see mahogany 1X2s for sale locally at Menards. I would like to try that some time.
 
Jon Tofte said:
p.s. It must be nice to be in California and be able to buy redwood :cool:!
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If Rich G makes the drive to T. V. IRL B.B. summer get together, perhaps he can bring you some! 😉If I were coming, I'd bring you a couple of grills worth. Once you cut them to length, they wouldn't take up too much room in a suitcase.
 
Here's a link to the post in my restoration thread about finishing the wood:

https://tvwbb.com/threads/genesis-1000-redhead-restoration.80175/post-885657

One year on, the finish has held up very well. I definitely recommend it for a Mediterranean climate. Sometime after I bought the Osmo, I found a less expensive alternative, Flood CWF-UV:

https://www.flood.com/products/wood-stain/clear-wood-finish

Had I known about the Flood, I might have chosen it over the Osmo because of price. However, I am really happy with the Osmo.
 
Awesome, will look into those.

I'm a total newbie with wood staining and don't really understand any of it.

What's the difference between what you're recommending and something like this that I find in a quick google search?
 
I don't know what the difference is. I am still a noob when it comes to wood. This was my first, and so far only, wood project. I relied on the Wood Whisper and other online resources to inform my choices.

Edit: that Valspar product is a sealer. I chose not to use a sealer because all of the sealers I looked at required them to be removed when it came time to repair or refinish. The Osmo is a hardwax oil finish that does not seal the wood. It does not need to be removed when refinished and it is easily repaired between refinishes.
 
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J Grotz said:
I don't know what the difference is. I am still a noob when it comes to wood. This was my first, and so far only, wood project. I relied on the Wood Whisper and other online resources to inform my choices.

Edit: that Valspar product is a sealer. I chose not to use a sealer because all of the sealers I looked at required them to be removed when it came time to repair or refinish. The Osmo is a hardwax oil finish that does not seal the wood. It does not need to be removed when refinished and it is easily repaired between refinishes.
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Cool cool cool. I think the sealer vs not a sealer is key.
 
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