Looking for advice regarding fire box cleanliness


 
I gotcha there Jon. I have to admit that my 5 gallon drum has been sitting in the house for the last 3 weeks. But, I do keep the lid on it.
 
LMichaels will the lacquer thinner or denatured alcohol remove existing paint? I was going to clean up the frame pieces to paint the parts that are exposed and rusting and I dont want to remove the existing paint just clean the surface so the paint will stick better. Also under the firebox where the bottom tray goes I noticed it is not painted. The thing is it is starting to get that white rust powder on it and I am wondering if I should just leave it be or paint that part too.
 
The solvent mentioned will not "remove" the paint but they will "etch" the surface. Which is good for doing a repaint. The white residue is simply aluminum oxide. Wire brush it off and prep for paint as usual
 
Got it all painted! Thank you all for the tips! I am now looking to replace some missing parts and have some questions. As far as the warming racks go is it worth having them? If yes, both or just one? Also are the stainless steel channel type grates any good? I added a picture of my hose and regulator and wasnt sure if it is missing the plastic piece that screws on to the tank or if it is a type of fitting I am not familiar with. Is this type of regulator any good or should I replace it? Lastly I removed the ignitor from the grill and will just manually light it through the hole in the front. Do I need to worry about the open hole in the firebox where the ignitor connects to the grill? Hose Connector.jpgRegulator.jpg
 
AnthonyD-Denver said:
Got it all painted! Thank you all for the tips! I am now looking to replace some missing parts and have some questions. As far as the warming racks go is it worth having them? NO, IMO they just get in the way.
If yes, both or just one? Also are the stainless steel channel type grates any good? Yes, they are better than the porcelain coated steel ones, but a much better value are the Solid rod Stainless Steel ones which can be had for $45 to $60 for a good set.
I added a picture of my hose and regulator and wasnt sure if it is missing the plastic piece that screws on to the tank or if it is a type of fitting I am not familiar with. That fitting the old style. You need to disconnect the hose from the elbow fitting and replace it with: https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B075R73GRY/tvwb-20 or this adapter: https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000BPK76G/tvwb-20 and then you can use a standard hose and regulator with the 3/8" flare connector.
Is this type of regulator any good or should I replace it? Replace it as stated above. Lastly I removed the ignitor from the grill and will just manually light it through the hole in the front. Do I need to worry about the open hole in the firebox where the ignitor connects to the grill? No, that shouldn't be a problem, but you should get the igniter replaced...they are only $8 on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B07PJJLJ7J/tvwb-20
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Here are a couple progress pics. I need to figure out what I am going to do about the side tables because I dont have a way to cut the wood to the right size.Grill.jpgHood.jpg
 
Nice. A grill in the middle of rehabbing in the house on white shag carpeting. Classic!

t0sG1c6.jpg


Jon, I think you need carpeting for the new Weber rehab shop.
 
Bruce thank you for answering all my questions. So just to make sure I understand I attach the new hose and regulator to the tube fitting and then the tube fitting to the elbow attached to the manifold? Do you use anything on the thread to help seal it up better and make it so it wont leak? Do you have any links for solid rod grates that would work? I was going to go with the channel ones because they were the cheapest I could find but you seem to be finding parts at half the price I am. I am going to get the ignitor that is a great price. I appreciate the link.
 
haha My gf was painting it all on the balcony so there is no room to build it out there at the moment. Rebuilding this thing in an apartment has been fun. I am just lucky she is enjoying this project as much as me so I can get away with putting it together inside haha.
 
AnthonyD-Denver said:
Bruce thank you for answering all my questions. So just to make sure I understand I attach the new hose and regulator to the tube fitting and then the tube fitting to the elbow attached to the manifold? Do you use anything on the thread to help seal it up better and make it so it wont leak? Do you have any links for solid rod grates that would work? I was going to go with the channel ones because they were the cheapest I could find but you seem to be finding parts at half the price I am. I am going to get the ignitor that is a great price. I appreciate the link.
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Anthony,

The squarish right angle adapter will stay with the manifold, and the regulator Bruce linked (https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B075R73GRY/tvwb-20) will replace the one currently installed. Little pipe tape on the end before screwing it in and tightening it with a c-wrench and you'll be in business.
 
You may find the 90deg right angle fitting will not separate from the hose. So you may find it easier to simply get a good wrench on the flats of that elbow and remove it from the manifold then buy a fitting which looks like this https://www.homedepot.com/p/Vibrant...-Degree-Elbow-Adapter-Fitting-10257/308521249 male 1/8" NPT elbow to male 3/8" flare nut. Replace the entire elbow currently on the grill with this. Do NOT use tape on small fittings. A licensed gas fitter taught me long ago tape does not work well on small (under 1/2") fittigs. Better to use PTFE pipe dope for gas fittings.
 
The hose will separate from the 90 degree adapter. You might need to cut the hose and crimp off the connector, but there is a hex body on the connector (7/16") I believe that you can use to unscrew it from the angle adapter. If you must, just take the hose and angle adapter off the manifold together. Then, if you still cant get the 90 degree adapter off the hose, trash the whole damn thing and buy the 1/8" NPT x 3/8" flare connector (linked to above) and put that on the manifold, then buy the cheaper and more common hose and regulator with the female 3/8" adapater and connect that to the adapter in the manifold.

This is really not a big deal. I have done a dozen of these, never failed to get the adapter out of the manifold or the hose off the angle adapter. It just takes a little time and effort.

wrench.jpg

When making connection to put the new hose on, use pipe sealant or "pipe dope" rated for gas and propane rather than tape. But, don't use it on the 3/8" flare connection. That connection is designed to be self sealing and doesn't require pipe dope.
 
So I managed to get the piece off but I also managed to slip and rough up a bit of the manifold and 90 degree adapter. I posted pictures of the adapter to get your opinion on if I messed it up and should replace it. Part of the thread chipped away. Also do you guys think these grates would be a good choice to buy Amazon Grates ? Is this pipe sealant the correct type for this application Pipe Sealant ? Pipe Pic 2.jpgPipe Pic.jpg
 
Anthony, Those grates are the ones I have been putting on all my rehabs. I bought several sets last fall for under $50. The other set of grates I would consider are these.

https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B06Y18YRGS/tvwb-20

You will probably be OK with that elbow adapter. Just be sure to check for leaks once you get the new hose and regulator installed. And that yellow pipe sealant is what I use. I just used some this morning on a grill.
 
I can't speak to the grates but the elbow looks like it should be ok. The sealer you showed is fine. I use the same one
 
Thanks again Bruce for the quick reply. The one I posted claim to be 304 steel and are 17 mm rods the other one you posted someone in the comments said it may be 430 steel with 17.4 mm rods. in your experience is there one you like more than the other or does it not really matter at this point? Also I was looking at another post you commented in about the wood pieces. If I went to Lowes and ordered the piece you were talking about (I think it was a 1x2 piece of wood) would I just need to cut it down to the correct length and use it? Reason being I dont have power tools but I do have a hand saw. I also dont care if it sticks out a bit as long as it serves its purpose properly.
 
Thanks Lmichaels. This will be my first ever grill so I want to make sure that I am being safe so I appreciate you guys confirming it looks ok. I also wanted to say that this forum is really awesome and you guys are always responsive and helpful, thank you. I have read a lot of the other posts you have helped people in and it made putting this grill together a lot easier. I actually have to credit you guys for me even getting this grill. I was looking to buy a dyna-glo from home depot because it was the cheapest gas grill I saw. I didnt want to spend too much money and knew nothing about grills. I decided to check craigslist and saw the redtop weber grill I currently have and he was giving it away for free. I googled red top Weber and the forum was the top search. lol After reading thru the posts I knew I had to have this thing.
 
AnthonyD-Denver said:
Thanks again Bruce for the quick reply. The one I posted claim to be 304 steel and are 17 mm rods the other one you posted someone in the comments said it may be 430 steel with 17.4 mm rods. in your experience is there one you like more than the other or does it not really matter at this point? Also I was looking at another post you commented in about the wood pieces. If I went to Lowes and ordered the piece you were talking about (I think it was a 1x2 piece of wood) would I just need to cut it down to the correct length and use it? Reason being I dont have power tools but I do have a hand saw. I also dont care if it sticks out a bit as long as it serves its purpose properly.
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Anthony: You will have to look at the wood pieces. Advertised sizes and actually sizes always vary, but their description indicated they would be very close. Probably a little thicker than the original, but not bad.

Also, You will be fine with the HONSGO grates. They are excellent grates and slightly longer than other grates which makes them fit snugger and they don't slide around like some when cleaning them.
 
AnthonyD-Denver said:
Thanks Lmichaels. This will be my first ever grill so I want to make sure that I am being safe so I appreciate you guys confirming it looks ok. I also wanted to say that this forum is really awesome and you guys are always responsive and helpful, thank you. I have read a lot of the other posts you have helped people in and it made putting this grill together a lot easier. I actually have to credit you guys for me even getting this grill. I was looking to buy a dyna-glo from home depot because it was the cheapest gas grill I saw. I didnt want to spend too much money and knew nothing about grills. I decided to check craigslist and saw the redtop weber grill I currently have and he was giving it away for free. I googled red top Weber and the forum was the top search. lol After reading thru the posts I knew I had to have this thing.
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You would have been back looking for another grill next summer or the following summer had you gotten the Dyna-Glo. You took the right route with rehabbiing a old weber. Ten years from now, you will still be going strong.
 
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