Dave S (GeoDave)
TVWBB Fan
should i be using the TRX or the BIN? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Flash the Trx from the command line using Putty. Wait a while then unplug and plug back in. Works everytime.
LinkMeter v2 Homebrew BBQ Controller - Part 1
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should i be using the TRX or the BIN? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Flash the Trx from the command line using Putty. Wait a while then unplug and plug back in. Works everytime.
Ben Lawson
TVWBB Member
Hrm, I think I killed it by using the BIN. I am used to DD-WRT and they are all bin files. I'm gonna have to find another wrt54g
Dave S (GeoDave)
TVWBB Fan
Hrm, I think I killed it by using the BIN. I am used to DD-WRT and they are all bin files. I'm gonna have to find another wrt54g
No there is really no such thing a bricking your router in my experience. You will need to do some very specific things to get it back. I posted detailed steps a while back...I will let you know which pages when I get home on the big PC.
Dave S (GeoDave)
TVWBB Fan
Hrm, I think I killed it by using the BIN. I am used to DD-WRT and they are all bin files. I'm gonna have to find another wrt54g
No there is really no such thing a bricking your router in my experience. You will need to do some very specific things to get it back. I posted detailed steps a while back...I will let you know which pages
the steps are on when I get home on the big PC. </div></BLOCKQUOTE> </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Use the instructions on page 6. Use the link to Bryan's Trx instead of the openwrt Trx.
You can do this!
Ben Lawson
TVWBB Member
Thanks, I'll check it out but I'm not too hopeful. I am not able to ping the router at all anymore. The first time I hosed it up I had to do the pin16/17 short on the flash chip to get it to respond to a ping. Even after eventually getting it to take a stock linksys flash last night it wasnt acting right. Before i realized the TRX was maybe what i should be using I tried to flash the BIN again
Now I'm back to no ping at all, shorting pin 16/17 seems to have no effect.
I'm afraid I'm at the point where I need a jtag to get this router functional again.
Kyle Christensen
TVWBB Fan
So I realized that I hadn't hooked up a 12v line from my router's barrel connector to my board when I was testing the other day, so that's what I did tonight.
So my router boots and I see the board blink twice and initialize.
When it's all booted, if I log in and stop lucid and cat /dev/ttyS1, I get no output.
If I've jumpered the ttyS1 tx -> rx and cat in one terminal and echo "xxxx" > /dev/ttyS1 in the other, I can see xxxx amongst the scroll.
Any ideas? My pololu order is supposed to ship early next week, so soon I'll actually have everything hooked up so I can see what's going on with the LCD, etc. I was just hoping I could get some serial output to verify that everything was on track.
So my router boots and I see the board blink twice and initialize.
When it's all booted, if I log in and stop lucid and cat /dev/ttyS1, I get no output.
If I've jumpered the ttyS1 tx -> rx and cat in one terminal and echo "xxxx" > /dev/ttyS1 in the other, I can see xxxx amongst the scroll.
Any ideas? My pololu order is supposed to ship early next week, so soon I'll actually have everything hooked up so I can see what's going on with the LCD, etc. I was just hoping I could get some serial output to verify that everything was on track.
Bryan Mayland
TVWBB Hall of Fame
For posterity I'd like to make it clear to others DO NOT SHORT YOUR FLASH PINS. Is there merit to the concept? Yes. However this is not your go-to solution every time your router doesn't boot. You have to really work hard to flash something in such a wrong way that this dangerous procedure is warranted. If you are completely at your wits end and considering shorting flash pins, throw your router in the garbage. Look at it. Maybe even haul it out to the curb. Shorting the pins on your flash chip is something you do now, now that you're comfortable with the fact that the router is garbage.Originally posted by Ben Lawson:
Thanks, I'll check it out but I'm not too hopeful. I am not able to ping the router at all anymore. The first time I hosed it up I had to do the pin16/17 short on the flash chip to get it to respond to a ping. Even after eventually getting it to take a stock linksys flash last night it wasnt acting right. Before i realized the TRX was maybe what i should be using I tried to flash the BIN again
Now I'm back to no ping at all, shorting pin 16/17 seems to have no effect.
It is always a better solution to hook a TTL serial cable to it and see why it isn't booting and fix it (maybe boot_wait needs to be set? maybe your computer just doesn't activate the ethernet link before boot_wait times out?). An FTDI cable, which you may have already, is a TTL serial cable (you'll need 2 resistors to get it down to 3.3V though). Your Arduino is a TTL serial cable (same 2 resistor, and pop the ATmega chip out). Your old cell phone cable you have in a box in the closet may very well be a TTL serial cable. A $3 TTL serial cable off eBay is a TTL serial cable.
To clarify what Dave S said:
-- If you're flashing via TFTP, use the BIN file.
-- If you're flashing from anywhere else you almost certainly want the TRX file.
You can't mess up your router by using the wrong image. You can write 3MB of random data to a file and flash that and your router won't boot into Linux, but it isn't bricked at all. If boot_wait is on, your router listens for 3 seconds on TFTP then starts executing whatever is stored in the linux partition. If you used the wrong image, your router will lock up here. If you messed up your root partition it will lock up a few seconds later. If you messed up your overlay partition, it will lock up a few seconds after that. All of these are indistinguishable because the router just never arrives at point D. What always remains the same is that the bootloader will wait 3 seconds for new firmware, regardless of what you've flashed into the other partitions.
The one big if here is "if boot_wait is on". By default, my WRT54GL's bootloader has boot_wait set to off. This is overridden by `nvram set boot_wait=on && nvram commit` which stores the updated value in the nvram partition. If you somehow miraculously are able to overwrite your nvram by flashing like a 8MB firmware image, you can set it back to "on" by using a serial cable you may already have somewhere.
So in short: if your router doesn't boot and you can't get it to TFTP, either get a serial cable or throw the router in the garbage.
Bryan Mayland
TVWBB Hall of Fame
Doh! Yeah power is important.
It should be set properly but go ahead and check the serial baud rate with `stty -F /dev/ttyS1`. It should be 115200.
Next try running hmdude (note: requires hmdude from Jan 28). When you run `hmdude` (no command line options) it may say Sync: OK or ERROR but more importantly watch the LED and see if it blinks twice again, indicating it rebooted.
Kyle Christensen
TVWBB Fan
Well, I hosed this atmega chip pretty badly, can't seem to figure out how to rescue it. Might be time to get a new one. At some point I set some fuses improperly, or something. Any attempts to set them back to the defaults fail.
avrdude -C etc/avrdude.conf -P /dev/tty.usbserial-A9007Wrk -c stk500v1 -b 9600 -p m328p -U lfuse:w:0xFF:m -U hfuse:w:0xDA:m -U efuse:w:0x05:m -U unlock:w:0x3F:m -U lock:w:0x0F:m -F
avrdude: AVR device initialized and ready to accept instructions
Reading | ################################################## | 100% 0.11s
avrdude: Device signature = 0x000000
avrdude: Yikes! Invalid device signature.
avrdude: Expected signature for ATMEGA328P is 1E 95 0F
avrdude: reading input file "0xFF"
avrdude: writing lfuse (1 bytes):
Writing | | 0% 0.00s ***failed;
Writing | ################################################## | 100% 0.32s
avrdude: 1 bytes of lfuse written
avrdude: verifying lfuse memory against 0xFF:
avrdude: load data lfuse data from input file 0xFF:
avrdude: input file 0xFF contains 1 bytes
avrdude: reading on-chip lfuse data:
Reading | ################################################## | 100% 0.05s
avrdude: verifying ...
avrdude: verification error, first mismatch at byte 0x0000
0xff != 0x00
avrdude: verification error; content mismatch
avrdude: safemode: lfuse changed! Was ff, and is now 0
Would you like this fuse to be changed back? [y/n] n
avrdude -C etc/avrdude.conf -P /dev/tty.usbserial-A9007Wrk -c stk500v1 -b 9600 -p m328p -U lfuse:w:0xFF:m -U hfuse:w:0xDA:m -U efuse:w:0x05:m -U unlock:w:0x3F:m -U lock:w:0x0F:m -F
avrdude: AVR device initialized and ready to accept instructions
Reading | ################################################## | 100% 0.11s
avrdude: Device signature = 0x000000
avrdude: Yikes! Invalid device signature.
avrdude: Expected signature for ATMEGA328P is 1E 95 0F
avrdude: reading input file "0xFF"
avrdude: writing lfuse (1 bytes):
Writing | | 0% 0.00s ***failed;
Writing | ################################################## | 100% 0.32s
avrdude: 1 bytes of lfuse written
avrdude: verifying lfuse memory against 0xFF:
avrdude: load data lfuse data from input file 0xFF:
avrdude: input file 0xFF contains 1 bytes
avrdude: reading on-chip lfuse data:
Reading | ################################################## | 100% 0.05s
avrdude: verifying ...
avrdude: verification error, first mismatch at byte 0x0000
0xff != 0x00
avrdude: verification error; content mismatch
avrdude: safemode: lfuse changed! Was ff, and is now 0
Would you like this fuse to be changed back? [y/n] n
Bryan Mayland
TVWBB Hall of Fame
Some of the fuses are one-way in that once they are set, you can't change them back. For some of them, you can use the chip erase command to reset them back to default. Try the -e command with avrdude (instead of all the -U).
If that doesn't work, you can always just do a high voltage flash. It sounds like it might be something technical or complicated but really it is just pulling reset up to 12V through a transistor and running a bunch of wires from one ATmega to the target.
Kyle Christensen
TVWBB Fan
Thanks, I'll give that a shot. In other news, my hm board is up and running and reading temp probe data.
Kyle Christensen
TVWBB Fan
Heh, this thing is toast. It won't sync up now. I looked up the high voltage flash: http://www.societyofrobots.com...book/export/html/239
Yikes, I think I'll opt for buying a new one w/ bootloader from Sparkfun or Ebay.
Yikes, I think I'll opt for buying a new one w/ bootloader from Sparkfun or Ebay.
Brandon Sungur
New member
I got the power run to the heatermeter still getting crashes on the web interface. I tried without the heatermeter connected and got same results. SSH and TFTP still connect; just web interface is down. I was able to reflash the router this time over ssh with the trx file. Same results after reflash.
Dave S (GeoDave)
TVWBB Fan
I got the power run to the heatermeter still getting crashes on the web interface. I tried without the heatermeter connected and got same results. SSH and TFTP still connect; just web interface is down. I was able to reflash the router this time over ssh with the trx file. Same results after reflash. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
I am having the same issue one on my routers as well...haven't had time to try and figure it out.
Kyle Christensen
TVWBB Fan
FWIW, earlier when I was messing around with the current trunk build of Linkmeter, hitting the config page would cause lucid to crash. Once I got my heatermeter board working properly, the crashes stopped.
Kyle Christensen
TVWBB Fan
Bryan, I've found a bug in the latest iteration of the configuration page. When you've clicked the presets link on a probe, your javascript creates the presets dialog box (via showCoeffPopup()) with the probeId of the probe you just clicked on. The links in that dialog call coeffClick(probeId, idx), but you're not destroying pcplist when you're done with it, so the next time a preset link is clicked, the links are still pointing to the probeId and idx of the previously clicked probe.
To see what I'm talking about, go into the config page, and click on presets for Probe 1, change to a different preset than what was previously selected. Then move to Probe 0, click presets and select another probe. The values for Probe 1 will be updated because the links in the coefficient element you created are still pointed at 1,idx instead of 0,idx.
I'm not much use in the electronics department, but I am fairly handy with jQuery if you need any help.
To see what I'm talking about, go into the config page, and click on presets for Probe 1, change to a different preset than what was previously selected. Then move to Probe 0, click presets and select another probe. The values for Probe 1 will be updated because the links in the coefficient element you created are still pointed at 1,idx instead of 0,idx.
I'm not much use in the electronics department, but I am fairly handy with jQuery if you need any help.
Made some progress. Finally got my 328 chip programmed so my linkmeter board is complete. Powered up the router and it recognizes the heatermeter. My problem now is my display only shows blocks on the top row of the display. Anyone have any ideas what might be going on with my board?
Brian J Wilson
New member
Hey, new poster here...
I had a working heatermeter with the wishield and have recently completed building my linkmeter. The work Bryan has put in and the collaboration that goes on in this forum is great. It is nice to see everyone help everyone.
I have an offset smoker which admittedly isn't sealed perfectly and on one of my cooks, the fan was at 100% non stop. I have since purchased a larger fan:
http://search.digikey.com/scri...KeyWords=603-1571-ND
I was slightly worried about the current draw with the larger fan, but with the 12v 1A supply and everything running (Fan @ 100%, Wifi on) I measured around 380mA. I don't think I measured wrong since I wired the power input through my multimeter.
I really like the 4-way switch used to control the interface and I have thought of an upgrade. Sparkfun sells the Nintendo DS touch panel for around 10 bucks and also sells a breakout board for easy connection.
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/8977
The current switch schematic only uses 1 analog input for button control and the touch screen uses 2 (X and Y position). I was wondering what everyone thought of using this little touch panel for control. You can create a background with painted or etched "buttons" that are mapped to call the normal presses (up, down, left, right) or use other methods like swipes to toggle.
This isn't really an improvement over the 4-way switch since the touch panel is no where near as rugged (as shown by the cracks in 1 of the 2 I purchased) and it is a much more complicated install since the panel has to be securely mounted.
Bryan mentioned an Android app and whether it would be worth while building since the web page performs the same functions that an app can do.
Here is an image of the app layout I have been working on. It uses two tabs which now need to be redesigned using the new ICS style.
I had a working heatermeter with the wishield and have recently completed building my linkmeter. The work Bryan has put in and the collaboration that goes on in this forum is great. It is nice to see everyone help everyone.
I have an offset smoker which admittedly isn't sealed perfectly and on one of my cooks, the fan was at 100% non stop. I have since purchased a larger fan:
http://search.digikey.com/scri...KeyWords=603-1571-ND
I was slightly worried about the current draw with the larger fan, but with the 12v 1A supply and everything running (Fan @ 100%, Wifi on) I measured around 380mA. I don't think I measured wrong since I wired the power input through my multimeter.
I really like the 4-way switch used to control the interface and I have thought of an upgrade. Sparkfun sells the Nintendo DS touch panel for around 10 bucks and also sells a breakout board for easy connection.
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/8977
The current switch schematic only uses 1 analog input for button control and the touch screen uses 2 (X and Y position). I was wondering what everyone thought of using this little touch panel for control. You can create a background with painted or etched "buttons" that are mapped to call the normal presses (up, down, left, right) or use other methods like swipes to toggle.
This isn't really an improvement over the 4-way switch since the touch panel is no where near as rugged (as shown by the cracks in 1 of the 2 I purchased) and it is a much more complicated install since the panel has to be securely mounted.
Bryan mentioned an Android app and whether it would be worth while building since the web page performs the same functions that an app can do.
Here is an image of the app layout I have been working on. It uses two tabs which now need to be redesigned using the new ICS style.
Dave S (GeoDave)
TVWBB Fan
Originally posted by Brian J Wilson:
Looks cool but does it work
Brian J Wilson
New member
Looks cool but does it work
This iteration isn't functional yet. The first version I had was built with a similar look, but harcoded for the heatermeter network address 192.168.1.252. It worked great, but lacked functionality because I built it in the Android App Inventor.
Since I am a pretty terrible and slow programmer it will be a while before I get this version going.
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