LinkMeter v2 Homebrew BBQ Controller - Part 1


 
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Originally posted by D Peart:
Has anyone been able to successfully flash and updated LinkMeter trx file via the webpage?
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I have never been able to get that to work even when I was testing a stock OpenWrt build. Even the the sysupgrade method doesn't work 50% of the time. You're right, it is incredibly annoying but I don't know how to fix it, I don't even know what is going wrong.
 
OK, at least I feel better that I'm not the only one unable to do this.

Is there a way to backup the settings so that the setup after tftp is easier?

thanks,
dave

Originally posted by Bryan Mayland:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by D Peart:
Has anyone been able to successfully flash and updated LinkMeter trx file via the webpage?
Click to expand...
I have never been able to get that to work even when I was testing a stock OpenWrt build. Even the the sysupgrade method doesn't work 50% of the time. You're right, it is incredibly annoying but I don't know how to fix it, I don't even know what is going wrong. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
 
Originally posted by D Peart:
OK, at least I feel better that I'm not the only one unable to do this.

Is there a way to backup the settings so that the setup after tftp is easier?
Click to expand...
Yeah on the same page as the non-functional "Flash new firmware image" there's a backup / restore that actually does work. Just download the tar.gz backup and after you tftp, go immediately to this page and restore it.
 
How would a person go about finding the coefficients for a temperature probe? I have two off brand probes that I want to use with my linkmeter I just don't know how to find the values to use in the equation to get the coefficients.

Thanks
Justin
 
I've done this a couple times now and if it is at all possible try to contact the manufacture and get the temp vs resistance numbers from them. I've been successful this way before.

Secondly get as much information about the particular probe you have. Temperature range, type of sensor and go looking to see if you can find one that matches and use that data. This is how I ended up getting the best numbers for the ET-732 probe.

Lastly start taking the readings yourself. To do this you will to have an ohm meter, that you hook up to the temp probe, and a digital thermometer to get the temp, and someone to help call out values as the temperatures change. The main issue I had is that you have to go very very slowly. If you don't, the temperature changes faster than the probe and all your values end up with the temperature higher than it should be. You can try using two or three points to see what you get. I'd room temperature, 32 and 212. You may get something usable from that and these values are easy to obtain because you can easily maintain the temp, to let the probe come to a steady state. Just don't have the ohm meter hooked up the entire time, as the act of measuring the temp can affect the probe.

Hope this helps,
dave

Originally posted by Justin:
How would a person go about finding the coefficients for a temperature probe? I have two off brand probes that I want to use with my linkmeter I just don't know how to find the values to use in the equation to get the coefficients.

Thanks
Justin
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Can somebody tell me how to access LinkMeter from outside my home network? I have an iPhone and have no problem accessing it from inside my home network on the phone, but I'm not sure what port the LinkMeter is using that I need to forward, or if there is another way to do it. Thanks
 
Originally posted by Andrew Meimann:
Can somebody tell me how to access LinkMeter from outside my home network? I have an iPhone and have no problem accessing it from inside my home network on the phone, but I'm not sure what port the LinkMeter is using that I need to forward, or if there is another way to do it. Thanks
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It listens on the HTTP port (80) so you'd need to open a port in your firewall to let it through.

One problem with this is bots that are scanning for web servers to infect may try to access your LinkMeter, which can only handle 2 connections at once. This may be a purely academic point to bring up though. Just forward port 80 to the LinkMeter's IP address or name (if your internet router supports it) and you should be good to go.
 
Originally posted by Andrew Meimann:
Thanks Bryan. Is it possible to change the LinkMeter port to something like 8080 to make it a little more secure?
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I'd make it more random, like 12345 or 9000. 8080 is a commonly used port for web proxies (something bots also like to scan for).

You can forward port 9000 externally to port 80 internally, so if you wanted to access it remotely you'd hit port 9000, or port 80 if you were home.
 
Originally posted by Kyle Christensen:
You can forward port 9000 externally to port 80 internally, so if you wanted to access it remotely you'd hit port 9000, or port 80 if you were home.
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This is what I do, just keep it port 80 locally and make up a port number on the internet router.

If you really wanted to change the port LinkMeter listens on, you can either change it or add another port in the lucid config either in the config file /etc/config/lucid.conf or using `uci add_list lucid.http.address=9000; uci commit`
 
I've been following this for the past two months and today finally got around purchasing the parts to put it together. I haven't purchased the PCB board yet and I'm looking to see if someone has an extra one I an buy or not before I order my own through Dorkbot.

Thanks for any assistance.
 
I should have two extra boards shortly, mine are in the mail.

For you guys using Weber Kettles, are hot coals and ash a problem when your blower is connected directly to the dog bowl cupped on a bottom vent?
 
Originally posted by J Davis:
I should have two extra boards shortly, mine are in the mail.

For you guys using Weber Kettles, are hot coals and ash a problem when your blower is connected directly to the dog bowl cupped on a bottom vent?
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I'd be more than happy to buy one off you, I can pay through Paypal as soon as you are ready to ship!
 
I'll post as soon as the boards come in.


Would a 9V/1A power supply cause problems? The router I got from ebay came in, but it didn't include the original power supply.
 
Originally posted by J Davis:
I'll post as soon as the boards come in.


Would a 9V/1A power supply cause problems? The router I got from ebay came in, but it didn't include the original power supply.
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I would think it won't as long as the polarity is correct, my understanding is that the WRT54 converts it down to 3.3v anyway. But one of the more electrically savvy guys might want to chime in before you trust me.
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Apologies (I'm a bit of a newbie) but as I understand, the impact will depend on the blower that you want to attach.

The HeaterMeter board consumes +5v (to power the ATmega, LCD etc. The Heatermeter board brings down the +12v (+9v in your case) provided by the Router powersupply to +5 to ensure it doesn't burn out the Heatermeter components.

The HeaterMeter board also provides the +12v to the blower pin. If I recall correctly, the blower specced is a +12v model.

The implication is therefore that the blower will demand more power than the powersupply can provide.

Unfortunately this is where my knowledge runs out... perhaps someone else can fill in what would happen next - would the blower just run slower, or would it cause something to fuse?

Nick
 
Originally posted by N Waring:
Unfortunately this is where my knowledge runs out... perhaps someone else can fill in what would happen next - would the blower just run slower, or would it cause something to fuse?
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Yeah the blower would just not run at full speed and maybe not turn on at all until the fan speed reaches a certain percentage. You can try it though, it shouldn't hurt anything. You can also try upping the "PID constants" on the config page if the blower works but has a large temperature swing.
 
Thanks, the blower being limited was what I was afraid of. The seller is meeting me halfway and returning $5.

I did just test the supply, and it pulls 11.95-12.05V running just the blower. I was seeing the same range with the 12V Linksys supply from my friend's WRT54GL.
 
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