LinkMeter v2 Homebrew BBQ Controller - Part 1
- Thread starter Bryan Mayland
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OK... I did try but thought I should be using 192.168.200.1 - I thought you were supposed to use the last IP address the Router was condfigured with.
OK, thanks
Ah... that may be something to look at. I'm using ET-732 probes but the Heatermeter is currently setup with the default ET-73 co-efficients - this results in the temp hovering around 0. Given the problems with the Router side, I did look in the Heatermeter code to try and locate where the default co-efficients were defined but couldn't find them. So, it's worth waiting until I have proper co-efficients before continuing.
Nope... I've also got an extract of the serial output from the Artuino port monitor which shows it dropping in and out
I tested at various points and got a stable voltage reading... around 4.89V. I did do another test which was across the two probe contacts of the pit connector (with the probe attached). I did notice that the voltage reported would sometimes drop to 0v but I haven't correlated (due to lack of time) with the LCD reporting the loss of the Probe. This may be just the wrong place to test.
Thanks for the troubleshooting support!
Daniel Schoonover
TVWBB Member
Just wanted to say a big thanks to James! Got my PCB board today in the mail. Just waiting for the other parts from various companies to get on with the building!
Bryan Mayland
TVWBB Hall of Fame
OK... I did try but thought I should be using 192.168.200.1 - I thought you were supposed to use the last IP address the Router was condfigured with.
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Yeah I need to make this clearer somewhere in the wiki, but the TFTP address is always 192.168.1.1. It doesn't become 192.168.200.1 until OpenWrt boots. (And for posterity, the reason it becomes 192.168.200.x is because most people's home networks are 192.168.1.x and it was causing routing problems for the wireless client mode)
Ah! The actual limits if what is reportable is -20C to +500C so maybe you're just falling off the bottom of the range.
You can configure the probes without using the web interface by issuing the command directly to the serial port on the router:
echo -e /set?pc0=5.36924e-4,1.91396e-4,6.60399e-8 > /dev/ttyS1
(Or with the FTDI cable from the Arduino IDE just /set?pc0=5.36924e-4,1.91396e-4,6.60399e-8)
That only changes probe 0, the pit probe, but to change the others just replace pc0 with pc1, pc2 etc.
Thanks for the useful info... the 192.168.1.1 info was spot on and the router is now back up and running with the Linkmeter image.
Setting the right probe co-efficients (via Arduino IDE) has also made the Heatermeter more stable when running on +12v power (in terms of the pit probe appearing to drop out).
A quick try of the Heatermeter connected to the router was less successful as I can't seem to 'see' any Serial output via the router:
<UL TYPE=SQUARE> <LI>"cat /dev/ttyS1" (after stopping Luci) resulted in the cursor moving down a line and no output
<LI>There is obviously some communication from the Router to the Heatermeter as clicking the 'Restart' link on the Web interface does work and the Heatermeter reboots[/list]
Before I re-solder the Router/Serial connector is there any tests I can do to:
<UL TYPE=SQUARE> <LI>1. Test the serial port output from the Heatermeter (via the Router pins rather than FDTI pins)
<LI> 2. Test the serial port on the Router to a. See if my soldering is to blame; or b. whether the Router Serial port is to blame. [/list]
Any ideas?
Thanks
Setting the right probe co-efficients (via Arduino IDE) has also made the Heatermeter more stable when running on +12v power (in terms of the pit probe appearing to drop out).
A quick try of the Heatermeter connected to the router was less successful as I can't seem to 'see' any Serial output via the router:
<UL TYPE=SQUARE> <LI>"cat /dev/ttyS1" (after stopping Luci) resulted in the cursor moving down a line and no output
<LI>There is obviously some communication from the Router to the Heatermeter as clicking the 'Restart' link on the Web interface does work and the Heatermeter reboots[/list]
Before I re-solder the Router/Serial connector is there any tests I can do to:
<UL TYPE=SQUARE> <LI>1. Test the serial port output from the Heatermeter (via the Router pins rather than FDTI pins)
<LI> 2. Test the serial port on the Router to a. See if my soldering is to blame; or b. whether the Router Serial port is to blame. [/list]
Any ideas?
Thanks
Bryan Mayland
TVWBB Hall of Fame
1) Not really unless you have another 3.3V TTL serial device. If you really wanted to get crafty, you can wire up the FTDI cable's GND and 5V and the HeaterMeter's router connection's (P5) TX (Pin 3) (to the FTDI cable's RX I think) and you should still see data coming out every 2 seconds in the Arduino IDE. Connect the FTDI 5V to 5V (not to the 3.3V power input!).
Somewhat easier is to verify (while connected only via the standard FTDI cable connection) with a multimeter that there's ~3.3V on the TX pin (P5 pin 3). You may see it fluctuate every couple seconds as it transmits.
2) You could jumper the RX/TX pins together on the router serial port and open two ssh connections to the router
In one: cat /dev/ttyS1
In the other: echo HELLO > /dev/ttyS1
And HELLO should appear on the other window
Also verify with `stty -F /dev/ttyS1` you should see the baud rate of 115200
Riku Naskali
TVWBB Member
Hi,
I'm building my first linkmeter, based on the 3.2 pcb and WRT54G V2.2 router.
I couldn't find IRL510 locally, I was given a BUK555 instead by the electronics guy. Do you think it'll work instead?
Also had a lot of trouble finding small enough caps and trimmer. Ended up using some caps with wider lead spacing and just cramming them in
We'll see where I mount the PCB, since the 54G doesn't have the L-shaped board. I'll probably glue/tape the board to the enclosure and use wire for the serial pins.
I'm building my first linkmeter, based on the 3.2 pcb and WRT54G V2.2 router.
I couldn't find IRL510 locally, I was given a BUK555 instead by the electronics guy. Do you think it'll work instead?
Also had a lot of trouble finding small enough caps and trimmer. Ended up using some caps with wider lead spacing and just cramming them in
We'll see where I mount the PCB, since the 54G doesn't have the L-shaped board. I'll probably glue/tape the board to the enclosure and use wire for the serial pins.
Bryan Mayland
TVWBB Hall of Fame
You have an electronics guy? I wish I had an electronics guy.
The BUK555 looks fine, it is a pin compatible logic-level MOSFET with a low Rds(on) and meets the max voltage / current requirements with ease.
Riku Naskali
TVWBB Member
Well.. no
Just a helpful electronics salesman who probably knows a bit more about electronics than I do.
I wish we had home depots here, though
I wish we had home depots here, though
I've got all the hardware hooked up, but I'm still struggling with the router. The only way I can log into the router, is by hooking up the "internet" port on the back, not one of the LAN ports. This is the only way I can see anything from my normal router, and the Linkmeter ends up taking 192.168.1.34. I've also can't seem to straighten out how to set up Client mode.
It's not the most intuitive setup. There is a post a few pages back (about page 40 - 44) where Bryan helped me when I was scratching my head! I reset the rounter back to default before follwoing the instructions.
What's your mail address... I am in the process of documenting how to configure the router and have a series of screen-shots which you could use.
You can mail me at nick at waring dot me dot uk
What's your mail address... I am in the process of documenting how to configure the router and have a series of screen-shots which you could use.
You can mail me at nick at waring dot me dot uk
Daniel Schoonover
TVWBB Member
Ok, I'm looking at my order at Mouser and it appears that there are three items that are on back order.
June 11th, 2012
Mfr. #: 163-7620E-E
Desc.: DC Power Connectors PCB 2.1MM
November 02, 2012
Mfr. #: MCP1700-3302E/TO
Desc.: Low Dropout (LDO) Regulators 250mA Adj LDO 2%
May 22, 2012
Mfr. #: WP132XGD
Desc.: Standard LED - Through Hole GREEN DIFFUSED
Does anyone have any suggestions on other places I can order these, or replacements for them.
If it helps I'm planning on making a HeaterMeter for Linkmeter. Was hoping I'd get this project started in 2012, instead of 2013...
June 11th, 2012
Mfr. #: 163-7620E-E
Desc.: DC Power Connectors PCB 2.1MM
November 02, 2012
Mfr. #: MCP1700-3302E/TO
Desc.: Low Dropout (LDO) Regulators 250mA Adj LDO 2%
May 22, 2012
Mfr. #: WP132XGD
Desc.: Standard LED - Through Hole GREEN DIFFUSED
Does anyone have any suggestions on other places I can order these, or replacements for them.
If it helps I'm planning on making a HeaterMeter for Linkmeter. Was hoping I'd get this project started in 2012, instead of 2013...
Kyle Christensen
TVWBB Fan
Did anyone see the Adafruit protoboard for Raspberry Pi yet?
https://plus.google.com/u/0/11...91/posts/E3pH4mJRN4U
https://plus.google.com/u/0/11...91/posts/E3pH4mJRN4U
Originally posted by Daniel Schoonover:
Ok, I'm looking at my order at Mouser and it appears that there are three items that are on back order.
June 11th, 2012
Mfr. #: 163-7620E-E
Desc.: DC Power Connectors PCB 2.1MM
November 02, 2012
Mfr. #: MCP1700-3302E/TO
Desc.: Low Dropout (LDO) Regulators 250mA Adj LDO 2%
May 22, 2012
Mfr. #: WP132XGD
Desc.: Standard LED - Through Hole GREEN DIFFUSED
Does anyone have any suggestions on other places I can order these, or replacements for them.
If it helps I'm planning on making a HeaterMeter for Linkmeter. Was hoping I'd get this project started in 2012, instead of 2013...
When I ordered, Mouser's system suggested this for the OOS DC Power connector.
Mouser Part #: 163-179PH-EX
Manufacturer Part #: 163-179PH-EX
Manufacturer: Kobiconn
Description: DC Power Connectors PCB 2.1MM
I chose this LED to replace the one that was OOS. It looked to be similar, except that the lens is clear.
Mouser Part #: 604-WP7104PGC
Manufacturer Part #: WP7104PGC
Manufacturer: Kingbright
Description: Standard LED - Through Hole GREEN WATER CLEAR
Daniel Schoonover
TVWBB Member
Thanks I got those and ordered the regulator from Digikey (I have had to make three separate orders from Digikey!
When I ordered, Mouser's system suggested this for the OOS DC Power connector.
Mouser Part #: 163-179PH-EX
Manufacturer Part #: 163-179PH-EX
Manufacturer: Kobiconn
Description: DC Power Connectors PCB 2.1MM
I chose this LED to replace the one that was OOS. It looked to be similar, except that the lens is clear.
Mouser Part #: 604-WP7104PGC
Manufacturer Part #: WP7104PGC
Manufacturer: Kingbright
Description: Standard LED - Through Hole GREEN WATER CLEAR </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Originally posted by J Davis:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Daniel Schoonover:
Ok, I'm looking at my order at Mouser and it appears that there are three items that are on back order.
June 11th, 2012
Mfr. #: 163-7620E-E
Desc.: DC Power Connectors PCB 2.1MM
November 02, 2012
Mfr. #: MCP1700-3302E/TO
Desc.: Low Dropout (LDO) Regulators 250mA Adj LDO 2%
May 22, 2012
Mfr. #: WP132XGD
Desc.: Standard LED - Through Hole GREEN DIFFUSED
Does anyone have any suggestions on other places I can order these, or replacements for them.
If it helps I'm planning on making a HeaterMeter for Linkmeter. Was hoping I'd get this project started in 2012, instead of 2013...
When I ordered, Mouser's system suggested this for the OOS DC Power connector.
Mouser Part #: 163-179PH-EX
Manufacturer Part #: 163-179PH-EX
Manufacturer: Kobiconn
Description: DC Power Connectors PCB 2.1MM
I chose this LED to replace the one that was OOS. It looked to be similar, except that the lens is clear.
Mouser Part #: 604-WP7104PGC
Manufacturer Part #: WP7104PGC
Manufacturer: Kingbright
Description: Standard LED - Through Hole GREEN WATER CLEAR </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Bryan Mayland
TVWBB Hall of Fame
It must be incredibly difficult to have a real electronics project in real life. I specifically picked parts that had large quantities available, thinking these were commonly used and always stocked parts. I'll get some compatible parts into the project sheet.
I've also seen the Adafruit Raspberry Pi shield. I'd say pretty limited usefulness considering all it does is attach perfboard to the existing Pi pinheaders. I guess if you don't have the ability to make your own connectors, it would be worthwhile.
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