Just ordered yesterday so I will let you know when I get them. A friend said if you pay the regular $5 shipping you're looking at 3-4 weeks. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Originally posted by Shane Woessner:
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I'd looked at iteadstudio.com before I made my first board because they have some pretty dirt cheap prices. How long was the turnaround time from submitting your design to the board showing up?
Do DIP sockets normally come with the ATmega? I ordered one controller, but got 4 with no sockets.
Yeah when you go to the configuration screen, it should all be filled in with values. If it isn't that indicates a communication problem between the HeaterMeter board and the linkmeter service.Originally posted by N Waring:
Using Firefox but tried IE9 as well. It looks wierd... none of the boxes are filled in - the defaults are blank - this suggests something wierd.
BTW, Heatermeter serial output using FDTI is good... regular feed of data coming through and pit probe stable. When I connect via to the Router the Pit probe starts to drop out and return on a cyclic basis (not not envery 2 seconds).
What do I do to monitor the serial output from the router (SSH?) but what command?
Unless you want to order another custom board from borkbot, you're best getting some 'stripboard' or other such prototyping board and making your own.How do I get a button board?
mmm... not managed to re-flash the firmware yet. I'll try that first.If it isn't that indicates a communication problem between the HeaterMeter board and the linkmeter service.
Yeah that's LuCI for you. It is incredibly slow on the WRT54GL and the problem amplified by the fact that when you commit changes, it launches other processes to do the work and then it goes into an almost-out-of-memory situation which grinds the whole device to a near-halt, sometimes killing the server process altogether.Originally posted by J Davis:
When I pull up the web interface, it gets slow after a few clicks, making it difficult to enable changes since I'll end up having to wait a few minutes to just log back in.
I can't remember how I did it. I think I just put a piece of painter's tape on a CD, and put the button on top of that and put a dot next to each leg. Then I drilled a hole a little inside that mark and peeled the tape off:Originally posted by N Waring:
A quick question.. Before I drill some custom holes, is there any neat trick you've identified for creating a custom button board?
99.9% of the time when you mess up your router, you don't need a JTAG to fix it. Usually you can still TFTP to 192.168.1.1 if you connect it through another wired hub/router and catch it just right during bootup. Remember, you need to use the BIN file when TFTPing.Originally posted by N Waring:
Initially looked like the router firmware may have been a problem... Unfirtunately something went wrong when tyring to reload firmware and now only get blinking power light. I'm sorting out a JTAG cable to try and recover before buying a replacement - but that's a different story.
Anyway, when powered via the FDTI cable, my heatermeter is pretty stable - i.e. with the probes connected the LCD displays the temperature properly and consistently.
However, with the Heatermeter powered from +12v (I soldered on the +12v power connector onto the heatermeter) it appears like the heatermeter keeps 'losing' the probes. Randomly, the LCD reports 'no pit probe'.
I'd be grateful for any guidance on why the difference when powering from the +5v FDTI vs. the +12v router power supply (connected directly to the Heatermeter)
There might be, but it will probably take some modification to the RF receiver to get it to work, and of course the software part. The problem is that our RF receiver is a robust FSK receiver and most of those wireless weather probes use a simpler OOK protocol.Originally posted by Andrew Meimann:
Is there a way to use a wireless weather station (LaCrosse, Oregon Scientific) as a wireless probe for ambient temperature?