LinkMeter v2 Homebrew BBQ Controller - Part 1


 
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Dave P.

Here's the latest:
avrdude: verification error, first mismatch at byte 0x0000 0x0c != 0xffavrdude: verification error; content mismatch

still showing squares and doesn't look like there is any backlight.
 
Originally posted by Ben Fillmore:
Hey Shane, any update on those boards?
Been a busy week with real life. I'm hoping to populate one this weekend and check the other also I will keep you posted. You might be looking at as late as next weekend though.
 
FirstRunTemps.png


It looks like I've got some coefficients that need to be played with. The target was 250F, but I was bouncing between ~268F and ~242F.
 
Originally posted by Shane Woessner:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Ben Fillmore:
Hey Shane, any update on those boards?
Been a busy week with real life. I'm hoping to populate one this weekend and check the other also I will keep you posted. You might be looking at as late as next weekend though. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Thanks
 
How big of a power supply is needed? I will be running a fan that pulls .68 amps. Not sure how much the router and the board pulls though.....
 
One more question in addition to the last: which components can I leave off if I'm not doing the wireless probes?

Also, I don't need the barrel power connector if I'm doing a Linkmeter setup, right?

Thanks
 
Well, I got lucky on the boards, I ordered through dorkbot on today, and he had some on hand. They're gonna be in the mail tomorrow.
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Originally posted by J Davis:
It looks like I've got some coefficients that need to be played with. The target was 250F, but I was bouncing between ~268F and ~242F.
Yeah they look like they may be a little high. Try setting the integral and derivative to 0 then lower the proportional a bit to get the error down. You'll always have oscillations without a Derivative term so add that back in slowly to dampen them. Finally add a teeny bit of Integral (like 0.01) to account for changes in fan speed needed for changing conditions.
 
Originally posted by Shane Woessner:
How big of a power supply is needed? I will be running a fan that pulls .68 amps. Not sure how much the router and the board pulls though.....
That's a good question. The HeaterMeter board pulls roughly 15mA, the LCD+backlight is about another 25mA. The RFM12B adds another (up to) 50mA.

The router I have no idea, I assume at least 500mA.

Remember that the 0.68A is current draw when the fan is running at 100% and the actual current draw is on the order of 30x as much (in pulses) when it isn't operating at 100%.
 
Originally posted by Ben Fillmore:
I'm about to place orders for parts. I got most of the backordered parts through digikey, but I want to make sure that this replacement 2.5mm jack is going to be okay. Can somebody check it out and make sure I'm not ordering garbage?

http://www.mouser.com/ProductD...bRE16wt1a7vsBw%3d%3d
I actually have some of those that I ordered as a possible replacement for when another set of jacks became unavailable. They're good as far as being the right type of part but (if I remember correctly) I found that my ET-72 probes would go in too far. Unfortunately I can't find that dimension on the datasheet so it is hard to say what the right length is supposed to be.

which components can I leave off if I'm not doing the wireless probes?
Basically all the resistors along the top of the board, the 3.3V regulator, and the two capacitors that go with it.
Q4, SJ1 (EXT33), C8, C9, R22, R23, R24, R25, R26, R27.

I don't need the barrel power connector if I'm doing a Linkmeter setup, right?
Nope, you can leave that off unless you want to power the board directly without the router.
 
Originally posted by Bryan Mayland:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Shane Woessner:
what all needs to be changed in the code to make it where the atmega328 chip works instead of using the atmega328p? I know there's a line in the 'MakeFile' anything else?
The Makefile doesn't work yet, so you don't need to change anything there.

I know the only difference between the 328 and 328p is that the P is "PicoPower". I could never really find any documentation on what that means exactly though. I think it might just mean it supports the sleep states and the HeaterMeter code doesn't invoke any sleep states. It should just work straight up. You'll have to let us know but if you have any problems I'd be happy to help you work em out. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

So far it works fine just sitting on the table. I have yet to test it while actually controlling a pit temp though. I did have to change a line in avrdude.conf to burn the bootloader to the 328. the error I received was "avrdude: Expected signature for ATMEGA328P is 1E 95 0F" find that line in the .conf file and change it to "1E 95 14" restart arduino then burn it. Not a problem if you already have a bootloaded chip though. http://letsmakerobots.com/chill/view/199
 
Bryan,

How do I disable the automatic lid open detection?

I thought that before I could set it to 0 and it would disable it. But now with the latest build that just triggers the lid as soon as it drops below the target temp.

I just tried setting it to 50% let's see how that works.

dave
 
Setting it to 50% seems to have addressed the issue. I guess 0% no longer disables it.

On another note, I have fixed my issue with the blower causing the serial port to hang. I plug the power into the HM and back feed the 12V to the router. This gives the HM a cleaner power supply and it has been going for 4 hours now without an issue. Previously I was lucky to get 15 min.

dave

Originally posted by D Peart:
Bryan,

How do I disable the automatic lid open detection?

I thought that before I could set it to 0 and it would disable it. But now with the latest build that just triggers the lid as soon as it drops below the target temp.

I just tried setting it to 50% let's see how that works.

dave
 
Bryan,

I was just curious if you ha given any thought yet on porting to the RPi? Specifically, were you planning on trying to port the existing link meter to the RPi, or if you had planned on going down a new route. I can't wait to 'get in line' with the rest of the linkmeter/heatermeter users. I still love my hacked print server, it's just a little rough to roll my own firmware to take advantage of the updates. If there is anything I can do to contribute, please let me know. I may be rusty when it comes to code, but you never REALLY forget
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Just like that funny two wheeled foot powered vehicle, errr, bike. Never forgot how to ride that
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Hi all, I see lots of progress and great advancements since I've been away. I just ordered a set of 3.2 boards and am wondering if anyone has used one of the newer setups to control an electric smoker as opposed to charcoal.
 
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