LinkMeter v2 Homebrew BBQ Controller - Part 1


 
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Originally posted by Bryan Mayland:
You can just submit the .brd file and get boards made but they'll lack some of the silkscreen because they only print the tNames layer. I'll put the CAM job into git tonight when I get home that exports the proper layers. You run that from EAGLE then zip up the 8x .ger files an 1x .xln file that it generates.
Click to expand...

So this is probably a dumb question and really highlights my inexperience in this space, but when I try to load the .brd file in Eagle I get the following error... "Invalid data in file...LinkMeterHM.brd".

any thoughts as to why I am getting this error?

Thanks!
 
Originally posted by Duston Anthony:
Here is a picture from the outside. I will have to wait for an inside picture because it is currently in use.
Click to expand...

Nice job...thanks for submitting the picture. How did your smoke go with that setup?
 
Originally posted by Kevin Scott:
So this is probably a dumb question and really highlights my inexperience in this space, but when I try to load the .brd file in Eagle I get the following error... "Invalid data in file...LinkMeterHM.brd".

any thoughts as to why I am getting this error?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

So, lesson learned, don't trust Chromes download functionalty... I re-downloaded the files using another browser and everything worked as it should... Sorry for the itchy trigger finger...
 
Okay gang, been working on this project for a week; and alot of frustration is setting in.. Some of this I have no experience with so please help in the simpliest terms if you can...

Just to refresh, I have everything on my wrt54g assembled, including my linkmeter board, switch board and LCD board. My LCD works, and my button board works. I still dont have my probes or blower yet, but trying to make sure all is ready to go. I also can login wirelessly to the wrt54g homescreen; however everything is blank except for title " Current Pit". Then on my LCD display the temp starts out and just keeps climbing, I did post earlier and was told to put in temperature coefficients but I cant figure out how to do that. Please help me with the below things if you can.

1.) What I need to set in configuration page, and the easiest way of doing it.....

2.) Without temp probes installed, should I still get labeling, time and everything displayed regardless?? If not, what do I have to have set-up.

3.) How can I be totally sure my serial is working?? I used pins 2,4,6 & 10; however someone else recommended 1,3,5, & 9....

I have no programming knowledge, so please if anyone can provide help it would be greatly appreciated.... This is a great project and my BGE is just crying out for it, LOL; not to mention I am getting excited....

Thanks for any help....
 
Originally posted by Scott Miz:
Okay gang, been working on this project for a week; and alot of frustration is setting in.. Some of this I have no experience with so please help in the simpliest terms if you can...

Just to refresh, I have everything on my wrt54g assembled, including my linkmeter board, switch board and LCD board. My LCD works, and my button board works. I still dont have my probes or blower yet, but trying to make sure all is ready to go. I also can login wirelessly to the wrt54g homescreen; however everything is blank except for title " Current Pit". Then on my LCD display the temp starts out and just keeps climbing, I did post earlier and was told to put in temperature coefficients but I cant figure out how to do that. Please help me with the below things if you can.

1.) What I need to set in configuration page, and the easiest way of doing it.....

2.) Without temp probes installed, should I still get labeling, time and everything displayed regardless?? If not, what do I have to have set-up.

3.) How can I be totally sure my serial is working?? I used pins 2,4,6 & 10; however someone else recommended 1,3,5, & 9....

I have no programming knowledge, so please if anyone can provide help it would be greatly appreciated.... This is a great project and my BGE is just crying out for it, LOL; not to mention I am getting excited....

Thanks for any help....
Click to expand...

Scott,
1. Did you hook up anything to the probes? I used the thermistor that came in the kit. Without setting any coefficients you will get a reading, it just wont be accurate. To test, just hook the thermistor to any of the probe pins and ground.

2. You should get labeling it should just show everything off. The graph should be updating as well. After you put the thermistor on the pit probe you will be able to see everything "working". But I think you issue in #3.

3. By default LM uses serial channel 1, I believe that this means you have to use 1,3,5 and 9. I've not seen an wrt54g yet that uses 2,4,6 and 10 for anything except serial0 which is the default terminal for the router. To know definitely you should look at your limkmeterd setup found in this post:

http://tvwbb.com/eve/forums/a/...261019426#4261019426

See the line:
option 'serial_device' '/dev/ttyS1'

That means you are using serial port 1. Double check you router specs, but I'm fairly confident you need to change your serial connection to 1,3,5 and 9.

dave
 
WOOHOO! I got it working.

Went over to AVR Freeks to get some help and there was suggestion to swap the 1N4001 diode with a switching diode and that fixed it. I had already swapped the diode once before and it didn't make a difference, but the new other diode I had in my parts box did work.

So I'm 3 for 3 now!

dave
 
Originally posted by D Peart:
Went over to AVR Freeks to get some help and there was suggestion to swap the 1N4001 diode with a switching diode and that fixed it.
Click to expand...
What is bizarre as hell is the original parts list called for a 1N914 (aka 1N4148) switching diode but more people had success with the 1N4001, which isn't really the right part for the application. I had some oscilloscope readings earlier in this thread or the other. Glad you got it working, this is one part that really blows goats with the current design is that apparently the 2-wire LCD arrangement you find all over the internet only mostly works.
 
Originally posted by Scott Miz:
3.) How can I be totally sure my serial is working?? I used pins 2,4,6 & 10; however someone else recommended 1,3,5, & 9....
Click to expand...
I would do this first and foremost. Disconnect the HeaterMeter board and take a piece of wire and connect the RX and TX lines on the router. The easiest way to make sure you've got the right pins is use a voltmeter to test the two end pins. You should get 3.3V or -3.3V depending on which probe is on which pin because one pin is 3.3V and the other is ground. RX and TX are the 2 pins next to the 3.3V side. So just affix a wire to them and fire up two telnet sessions to the router. FIRST stop lucid with "/etc/init.d/lucid stop". In the first session type "cat /dev/ttyS1"(enter) and in the second type "echo XXXX > /dev/ttyS1"(enter). You should see XXXX come up in the first window once for every time you do the echo XXXX command (tip: use the up arrow to 'retype' the last command).

If you see XXXX, then perform the diagnostics I typed out on the previous page. If not, try ttyS0, or something. You may want to post a picture of which pins you have hooked up.
wrt54gl_serial.jpg
 
Originally posted by Bryan Mayland:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by D Peart:
Went over to AVR Freeks to get some help and there was suggestion to swap the 1N4001 diode with a switching diode and that fixed it.
Click to expand...
What is bizarre as hell is the original parts list called for a 1N914 (aka 1N4148) switching diode but more people had success with the 1N4001, which isn't really the right part for the application. I had some oscilloscope readings earlier in this thread or the other. Glad you got it working, this is one part that really blows goats with the current design is that apparently the 2-wire LCD arrangement you find all over the internet only mostly works. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Another suggestion was to use the hc164 because it has a higher input voltage for a low signal. Looking at the datasheet on mouser is looks to be 1.35v vs .8v which would give a little more head room.

dave
 
Question regarding password setting. I set my password, and can use it to log into the webpage, but I can't telnet into the router anymore. Are they different passwords?

Telnet is disabled now and SSH is enabled, but the LM password doesn't work for SSH. How do I reset/set my password so I can telnet/ssh into the router?

thanks
dave
 
Originally posted by D Peart:
Another suggestion was to use the hc164 because it has a higher input voltage for a low signal. Looking at the datasheet on mouser is looks to be 1.35v vs .8v which would give a little more head room.
Click to expand...
Interesting idea, but there shouldn't be any low signals that are even close to not being 0. The only signal that has any garbage on it is the output going to the enable line on the LCD. We actually go over the "low" threshold there so the enable line is undefined which I guess is what causes the issue.

As far as the password not working, all I can see is that you're right. If you just boot up from scratch and set the password from the web interface, you can't SSH in any more. I've always used passwd from the telnet interface. Check the OpenWrt forums I guess because I don't see anything in LuCI or OpenWrt's changelog that says it has been fixed.

Do you still need another v3.1 board Dave? Or did the diode swap make all your dreams come true?
 
Originally posted by Bryan Mayland:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by D Peart:
Another suggestion was to use the hc164 because it has a higher input voltage for a low signal. Looking at the datasheet on mouser is looks to be 1.35v vs .8v which would give a little more head room.
Click to expand...
Interesting idea, but there shouldn't be any low signals that are even close to not being 0. The only signal that has any garbage on it is the output going to the enable line on the LCD. We actually go over the "low" threshold there so the enable line is undefined which I guess is what causes the issue.

As far as the password not working, all I can see is that you're right. If you just boot up from scratch and set the password from the web interface, you can't SSH in any more. I've always used passwd from the telnet interface. Check the OpenWrt forums I guess because I don't see anything in LuCI or OpenWrt's changelog that says it has been fixed.

Do you still need another v3.1 board Dave? Or did the diode swap make all your dreams come true? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

The diode swap "made my dreams come true"
icon_smile.gif


I'm now trying to learn how to write HTML pages to get my "Cooking Profiles" to work. I have it running (well mostly) on my client, but getting around the authenticate to use the set? URL is a PITA. I do want to get it moved to the server when I can, but for now it is kinda working. I just need to be able to telnet into the router to get the webpage installed on the server
icon_smile.gif


I'll just reflash and use the telnet passwd method.

thanks,
dave
 
Originally posted by D Peart:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Scott Miz:
Okay gang, been working on this project for a week; and alot of frustration is setting in.. Some of this I have no experience with so please help in the simpliest terms if you can...

Just to refresh, I have everything on my wrt54g assembled, including my linkmeter board, switch board and LCD board. My LCD works, and my button board works. I still dont have my probes or blower yet, but trying to make sure all is ready to go. I also can login wirelessly to the wrt54g homescreen; however everything is blank except for title " Current Pit". Then on my LCD display the temp starts out and just keeps climbing, I did post earlier and was told to put in temperature coefficients but I cant figure out how to do that. Please help me with the below things if you can.

1.) What I need to set in configuration page, and the easiest way of doing it.....

2.) Without temp probes installed, should I still get labeling, time and everything displayed regardless?? If not, what do I have to have set-up.

3.) How can I be totally sure my serial is working?? I used pins 2,4,6 & 10; however someone else recommended 1,3,5, & 9....

I have no programming knowledge, so please if anyone can provide help it would be greatly appreciated.... This is a great project and my BGE is just crying out for it, LOL; not to mention I am getting excited....

Thanks for any help....
Click to expand...

Scott,
1. Did you hook up anything to the probes? I used the thermistor that came in the kit. Without setting any coefficients you will get a reading, it just wont be accurate. To test, just hook the thermistor to any of the probe pins and ground.

2. You should get labeling it should just show everything off. The graph should be updating as well. After you put the thermistor on the pit probe you will be able to see everything "working". But I think you issue in #3.

3. By default LM uses serial channel 1, I believe that this means you have to use 1,3,5 and 9. I've not seen an wrt54g yet that uses 2,4,6 and 10 for anything except serial0 which is the default terminal for the router. To know definitely you should look at your limkmeterd setup found in this post:

http://tvwbb.com/eve/forums/a/...261019426#4261019426

See the line:
option 'serial_device' '/dev/ttyS1'

That means you are using serial port 1. Double check you router specs, but I'm fairly confident you need to change your serial connection to 1,3,5 and 9.

dave </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Dave and Bryan,

I think I got my serial communication worked out. It was that I originally hooked up the even pins on my linksys router, I switch to correct pins and started to work.....

Did have two follow-up questions that I want to be real clear on:

1.) Originally when I loaded flashed my wrt54g, I used the linkmeter firmware; however I did not load any hex files or anything else. Was this correct or do I need to load other stuff onto the router??????

2.) I still do not have my probes, but my understand is I use the thermistor to act as a probe; correct?? And if so, how exactly do I load the coefficients?? And do I have to do it for pit probe plus all probes individually????

Thanks for any continuing help......

Scott
 
Originally posted by Bryan Mayland:
Dave S: The other part is called the "sleeve". You should be reading ground (J2 probe jack pin 1) on the sleeve, not the tips though.
Click to expand...

That did it...not sure how I missed that. I am going to try a pork shoulder this week for my long smoke.

On the serial port...the problem was that the VCC pin was not connected. The holes on the wrt150n are soldered closed. I apparently destroyed the trace when I desoldered the VCC hole. Desoldering the VCC hole on those routers is much more difficult that the other round holes. I figured this out when trying to mount an SD card. It recognized the card but couldn't mount it because of low voltage (I think). Oh well...I learned a lot using that router and it still works as a router. Now I know what to look for on my next one. I think I can pretty much debrick anything at this point.

FYI. There are two WRT54GL on craigslist Seattle right now...one for $15 and one for $20. I bought one last week for $30...doh!
 
Originally posted by Scott Miz:

Dave and Bryan,

I think I got my serial communication worked out. It was that I originally hooked up the even pins on my linksys router, I switch to correct pins and started to work.....

Did have two follow-up questions that I want to be real clear on:

1.) Originally when I loaded flashed my wrt54g, I used the linkmeter firmware; however I did not load any hex files or anything else. Was this correct or do I need to load other stuff onto the router??????

2.) I still do not have my probes, but my understand is I use the thermistor to act as a probe; correct?? And if so, how exactly do I load the coefficients?? And do I have to do it for pit probe plus all probes individually????

Thanks for any continuing help......

Scott
Click to expand...

Scott,
1. You don't need any hex files if you programmed the Atmega on an Arduino board. It sounds like that is working so I'm assuming you did it that way.

2. I use the thermistor as my "pit" probe for testing as I get things put together. Just hook it up between the pit and gnd pins on the probe header. To load the coefficients, look back a page or so and there will be a pc0=.... command that you can use on the config page. Look at the very bottom, there is a place to set these things. pc0 is the pit probe.

dave
 
Well after having my brother-in-law do most of the heavy lifting, I have my proof of concept for cooking profiles working.

On the config page, I can load the pre-configured cooking profiles and choose whichever one to start. They look like:

Sausage 145,1,""|180,165,1
Bacon 5,60,""|165,60,""|180,165,1

So Sausage sets the temp to 145 for 1 minute, then sets it to 180 until probe 1 hits 165. 1 minute is a nice duration for testing
icon_smile.gif


Not sure how to set alarms for probes, can that be done? So currently I'm just changing temperature. I also plan so support a profile like:

sausage2 145,100,1|180,165,1 which would set the starting temp at 145 until probe 1 hits 100 then change the temp to 180 until probe 1 hits 165. I don't have that done yet, but I was just happy to be able to get the thing doing something.

Not sure anyone else is interested in this type of thing, but I think it's pretty cool.

dave
 
Ok, Update..... I did verify that my serial was communicating, still had a bunch of headaches getting anything to work; so I finally bricked a router, lol...... Anyways, Got another router; loaded up OpenWRT, Then loaded trx file; and there it was. But I am wondering a few more things......

1.) On the linkmeter page, by time is off: just wonder if someone can guide me in setting that.

2.) Lid Open mode, is continuously deisplaying; any advice.... I can set temp, and my graph will adjust and run even though I have no probes set-up; I assume this is correct.

3.) I will just be using a Pit Probe, and a food probe; I am building up enough courage to try to set those coefficients. Should I set them both similair to Dave posted in an earlier post????

Sorry for all the questions; I do appreciate everyone's help with a newbie like me.....

Scott
 
Originally posted by Scott Miz:
Ok, Update..... I did verify that my serial was communicating, still had a bunch of headaches getting anything to work; so I finally bricked a router, lol...... Anyways, Got another router; loaded up OpenWRT, Then loaded trx file; and there it was. But I am wondering a few more things......

1.) On the linkmeter page, by time is off: just wonder if someone can guide me in setting that.

2.) Lid Open mode, is continuously deisplaying; any advice.... I can set temp, and my graph will adjust and run even though I have no probes set-up; I assume this is correct.

3.) I will just be using a Pit Probe, and a food probe; I am building up enough courage to try to set those coefficients. Should I set them both similair to Dave posted in an earlier post????

Sorry for all the questions; I do appreciate everyone's help with a newbie like me.....

Scott
Click to expand...

Also, can I use the prior 4 switch set-up from the earlier heatmeter and integrate on the Linkmeter?? If so, can I follow schematic 20110503.png for switch wiring?????

Thanks,
Scott
 
Originally posted by Scott Miz:
1.) On the linkmeter page, by time is off: just wonder if someone can guide me in setting that.

2.) Lid Open mode, is continuously deisplaying; any advice.... I can set temp, and my graph will adjust and run even though I have no probes set-up; I assume this is correct.

3.) I will just be using a Pit Probe, and a food probe; I am building up enough courage to try to set those coefficients. Should I set them both similair to Dave posted in an earlier post????

4) Also, can I use the prior 4 switch set-up from the earlier heatmeter and integrate on the Linkmeter?? If so, can I follow schematic 20110503.png for switch wiring?????
Click to expand...
1) The time always resets when the router boots. There's a way to have it set automatically when there's an internet connection but OpenWrt recently changed the right way to do it so I'm not sure how it is done any more. On the system page in the web gui there is a "sync time with browser" button that manually adjusts it.

2) Displaying where? If on the LCD, then something is "pressing" the left button even if you have no buttons. If it is coming on and going off, is your temperature going all over the place? You say you have no probes connected so the temperature should display as "off" everywhere and not trigger the automatic lid mode.

3) If you haven't set any coefficients, and you're using the standard maverick probes, you're already set. The default loads these coefficients to all probes.

4) Yes the 4button and 4wayswitch are identical in functionality. Just make sure your connection to the board has the right pins connecting (pin 1 on one may not be pin 1 on the other).
 
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