Woo, I've been out of town for a few days and suddenly things get busy! Let me see what I can answer here.
1)
My web page has all 0s for the time and no data - This is normal if no heatermeter is connected. The time at the top displays the last update time not really for the page but rather the last update received by linkmeter service. If there's not data coming, the last update is at 0.
2)
What's the 4 switches - (in addition to what others have said) I mount them separately from the main board so you only have to run 2 wires to the button board. Here's a picture
of a 4 way switch I built on a piece of cut up CD.
On breadboard with 4 switches back and
front (kinda).
3)
36 pin header - Break this into pieces to make any straight P* parts. Ps are pins, Js (jack) are receivers.
4)
Which optiboot? - The optiboot that comes with arduino-0022 may work or it may not (it did for some of my boards but not others). The thing is that it has a definite but that will present itself depending on the floating state of a gate in a CPU so use the fixed version. This is the one that is in the Ardino project github and as of Oct 30, also at the
optiboot main page. v4.4 is current right now.
5)
DIP Sockets? - I used a 28pin dip socket (that I just noticed wasn't on the parts list) for the ATmega chip but soldered the shift register in directly. I didn't anticipate removing it at all. If you are in doubt, you can always just not solder in the shift register and populate it and stretch the legs out a bit to make sure they're getting good contact. My current v3.1 board just has the chip sitting in there actually.
6)
LED flash - Yes pin 13 should flash when the bootloader starts up, two brief flashes if I remember. In addition, HeaterMeter will blink pin 9 once as its first line of code, then again once the initialization is finished and is about to go into the main loop (100ms later if that much). If pin 13 comes on and stays on something is probably wrong. It is the SPI clock line as well so make sure you didn't compile HeaterMeter with HEATERMETER_NETWORKING on, which will try to communicate with a WiShield and never succeed.
7)
Smaller than r97? - Yes without the WiShield/TCPIP stuff built in, the sketch is massively smaller.
8)
No probe second line - The second line is blank if there's no probes installed. The v3.1 board doesn't have the Ambient sensor on board, allowing you to choose between having the ambient sensor or a 3rd food probe. If you'll never use the 3rd food probe, you can solder the thermistor directly onto the board between the FOOD3 pin and GND pin. I would have liked to made a second GND hole but there wasn't space.
9)
No menu on HeaterMeter - If you can turn on lid detect mode but not get into the menus, your "Right" button may be defective or the resistor value for that pin is off. If you can check with a voltmeter, the voltage on the button return line should be greater than 3.2V but less than 3.9V when the button is pressed. (5V when it isn't)
10)
Default password - Username "root", password is blank.
11)
Failsafe mode? - OpenWrt failsafe mode is built in, but unlike the guides on the Internets, the router IP is 192.168.200.1 in failsafe (and default config). This was done to prevent conflicts with most people who already have a network on 192.168.1.x which would make the OpenWrt wireless client config more confusing than it already is. During router bootloader, if you need to tftp, the IP is still 192.168.1.1.
General - If the shift register is in backward, you won't see anything on the LCD.
General - If you're using a serial cable between your computer and the router to check the bootup, remember you have to connect ground from your serial cable to the router as well, not just RX/TX. If you don't connect GND, generally it will sort of work but be all garbled, because the ground signal is actually going through your 110V mains and back to the laptop which of course screws up the timing depending on what's between the two.
General Troubleshooting - If you're using an FTDI cable, you should be able to see heatermeter updates in the Arduino serial monitor at 115200 baud. A small config dump at the beginning then 1 new status update every 2 seconds. If you're seeing garbage every ~2s you at least know it is running but something else is wrong.
