LinkMeter v2 Homebrew BBQ Controller - Part 1


 
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Originally posted by D Peart:
Download Eagle from here:

http://www.cadsoftusa.com/downloads/

Download the cam file from this post:
http://tvwbb.com/eve/forums/a/...411059526#5411059526

Download the brd, sch files from here:

https://github.com/CapnBry/Hea...er/tree/master/eagle

Install eagle,

load the brd file into eagle.

file->CAM Processor
file->open->Job
select the cam job you downloaded

Then Process Job

It will write all the files out, then you can submit them to Dorkbot for fabrication. If you are going to a different place for the boards, there will be a different cam file to run.

hope this helps,
dave

Thanks Dave,

I really appreciate your help, really excited to get this project moving along....

Scott
 
Originally posted by D Peart:
Do you have an example of the transmitter side of the RFM12B radio?
Yeah the code I was using in the remote node is in git as "lmremote" for LinkMeter Remote
https://github.com/CapnBry/Hea...ter/arduino/lmremote

It works and runs for like a month on a single AA battery, but there's a bug that prevents it from sleeping every so often that makes the battery drain a little faster. You can see the battery level right from the WebUI though so you shouldn't be caught off guard. I think the issue has to do with one of the units I am shutting down to conserve battery. I'm actually actively working on it this week, because I've got an LMR that has a barometric pressure sensor in it too and is exhibiting the same behavior.
 
Originally posted by Bryan Mayland:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by D Peart:
Do you have an example of the transmitter side of the RFM12B radio?
Yeah the code I was using in the remote node is in git as "lmremote" for LinkMeter Remote
https://github.com/CapnBry/Hea...ter/arduino/lmremote

It works and runs for like a month on a single AA battery, but there's a bug that prevents it from sleeping every so often that makes the battery drain a little faster. You can see the battery level right from the WebUI though so you shouldn't be caught off guard. I think the issue has to do with one of the units I am shutting down to conserve battery. I'm actually actively working on it this week, because I've got an LMR that has a barometric pressure sensor in it too and is exhibiting the same behavior. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I am so into this , I ordered my boards today; am am waiting for my mouser parts to arrived. I really hope the gang will be around to get me going because I frankly think this is the true ATC for a geek like me, lol.......
 
I have my boards on order, My components are coming Monday and I am very excited. I hope that you all will be around to get this running because I am truly excited.......
 
Hi guys. I got my boards today from DorkbotPDX. Wow these are great quality! Well I only need one so if anyone is interested I will sell them one. My cost was $9.22 per board. I will sell it to you for cost plus shipping. I assume shipping will be cheap since they are small and light. Just send me an e-mail david.shaeffer@gmail.com. Ships same day from Seattle. I am designing my own board so I need to free some money up for my board order. They are v3.1.
 
Originally posted by Dave S (GeoDave):
Hi guys. I got my boards today from DorkbotPDX. Wow these are great quality! Well I only need one so if anyone is interested I will sell them one. My cost was $9.22 per board. I will sell it to you for cost plus shipping. I assume shipping will be cheap since they are small and light. Just send me an e-mail david.shaeffer@gmail.com. Ships same day from Seattle. I am designing my own board so I need to free some money up for my board order. They are v3.1.

Dave when did you put your order in? I got mine in on the 24th, just curious.

thanks,
dave
 
Originally posted by D Peart:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Dave S (GeoDave):
Hi guys. I got my boards today from DorkbotPDX. Wow these are great quality! Well I only need one so if anyone is interested I will sell them one. My cost was $9.22 per board. I will sell it to you for cost plus shipping. I assume shipping will be cheap since they are small and light. Just send me an e-mail david.shaeffer@gmail.com. Ships same day from Seattle. I am designing my own board so I need to free some money up for my board order. They are v3.1.

Dave when did you put your order in? I got mine in on the 24th, just curious.

thanks,
dave </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Same order. I live in Seattle and they ship from Portland area (3 hours away) so I got mine quick. You will likely get yours tomorrow or Wednesday. He shipped them on Saturday.
 
I am slowly populating my board as I get time. I am still waiting on two parts which should get here this week. I figure I will be done with it by the board by this weekend. I got a new WSM for my birthday so I need to rig up a blower attachment somehow. I came up with a little design in a CAD program but the price they quoted me was $80...boooo

I did get the necessary version of OpenWRT Linkmeter on my WRT150N. However, I was playing with the settings and trying to get the WiFi to work when I bricked it again. I think I changed the LAN from static to DHCP. This seems to have effectively bricked the router. I can get a TTL=100 ping and upload firmware but that is as far as I get. After the upload I get a continuous TTL=100 ping. When I power cycle the router I get nothing. I did solder some header pins on the serial port. I haven't had any success connecting to the router via the Arduino using digital pins 0 and 1 and GND. I am probably just doing it wrong. I think I am going to order a JTAG cable from ebay.
 
When you're uploading firmware, I assume you're doing it to the 192.168.1.1 bootloader, correct? If so make sure you're using the correct BIN image if there is one instead of the TRX.

As far as the shipping of boards goes, their dimensions and weight are well under what you can put in an envelope with a first class stamp. I mailed one to Ed with a heavy piece of paper around it and it was still not even half the max 1st class rate. So if you're mailing them, don't waste money boxing them or putting them in a priority mail mailer.
 
Originally posted by Bryan Mayland:
When you're uploading firmware, I assume you're doing it to the 192.168.1.1 bootloader, correct? If so make sure you're using the correct BIN image if there is one instead of the TRX.

As far as the shipping of boards goes, their dimensions and weight are well under what you can put in an envelope with a first class stamp. I mailed one to Ed with a heavy piece of paper around it and it was still not even half the max 1st class rate. So if you're mailing them, don't waste money boxing them or putting them in a priority mail mailer.

Good to know on the shipping. So, $9.22 for the board plus a first class stamp. No one has asked yet.

I am actually trying to flash the linksys firmware back. I have tried tftp2 and the command prompt tftp. It says it successfully flashes but I can't get it to ping or load the conf page. I ordered a parallel port for my PC. Just have to buy or make a JTAG.
 
I got my sample parts (the connectors) today as well so I'm ready to go.

I hope this goes well.
icon_smile.gif


dave

EDIT: One quick question about probes. Will this one work?

http://www.amazenproducts.com/...ode=MAVET%2D732PROBE
 
Originally posted by Dave S (GeoDave):
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Bryan Mayland:
When you're uploading firmware, I assume you're doing it to the 192.168.1.1 bootloader, correct? If so make sure you're using the correct BIN image if there is one instead of the TRX.

As far as the shipping of boards goes, their dimensions and weight are well under what you can put in an envelope with a first class stamp. I mailed one to Ed with a heavy piece of paper around it and it was still not even half the max 1st class rate. So if you're mailing them, don't waste money boxing them or putting them in a priority mail mailer.

Good to know on the shipping. So, $9.22 for the board plus a first class stamp. No one has asked yet.

I am actually trying to flash the linksys firmware back. I have tried tftp2 and the command prompt tftp. It says it successfully flashes but I can't get it to ping or load the conf page. I ordered a parallel port for my PC. Just have to buy or make a JTAG. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

email sent! Dave
 
Originally posted by Dave S (GeoDave):
I am actually trying to flash the linksys firmware back. I have tried tftp2 and the command prompt tftp. It says it successfully flashes but I can't get it to ping or load the conf page. I ordered a parallel port for my PC. Just have to buy or make a JTAG.
Do you have an FTDI cable? Or any sort of USB serial cable? You can use that to see what's going on and it usually will tell you what you need to do to fix it (well, point you in the direction of the problem). If you have a 5V one you can just use a 4.7k/10k voltage divider on you USB side's transmit line.
 
Both boards sold within a minute of each other lastnight.

I have used my Arduino to program an Arduino on a breadboard by pulling out the atmega. I tried to read the serial data using the Arduinos ftdi chip with no success. I tested the header pins on the router and I am getting 3.3v signals. Maybe I am configuring it wrong. I did use the resistors you suggested to step down the voltage.
 
Okay gang, I have an update and once again a few questions. I have flashed my wrt54g, flashed my ATMEGA, got my boards on order, ordered my probes. Can't wait to finally put it all together, as I have been staging things along the way. But I do have some follow-up questions......

1.) If I log into my router at 192.168.200.1 I get to the Linkmaster screen and can login and such; however my time is all zero's and none of the fields are filled in, is this normal with not having board and probes installed????

2.) What are the functions of the 4 switches on top of router?? Are these four individual boards or just one?? Photo would help....

3.) On parts list, what is the 36 pin header for?????

Also, If all goes good; I will have two boards to sell if anyone is interested...... Price would be $9.22 plus cost of stamps.

Thanks
 
Originally posted by Scott Miz:
Okay gang, I have an update and once again a few questions. I have flashed my wrt54g, flashed my ATMEGA, got my boards on order, ordered my probes. Can't wait to finally put it all together, as I have been staging things along the way. But I do have some follow-up questions......

1.) If I log into my router at 192.168.200.1 I get to the Linkmaster screen and can login and such; however my time is all zero's and none of the fields are filled in, is this normal with not having board and probes installed????

2.) What are the functions of the 4 switches on top of router?? Are these four individual boards or just one?? Photo would help....

3.) On parts list, what is the 36 pin header for?????

Also, If all goes good; I will have two boards to sell if anyone is interested...... Price would be $9.22 plus cost of stamps.

Thanks

Scott for #2 the buttons allow you to setup the linkmeter without the web. You can implement them as four buttons or as a single 4-way button. The single 4-way button is what is in the parts list from Mouser. On the git page, under Eagle you will see the linkmeter-button.sch file. Load that up in eagle and it will show you how to hook up the 4-way button. If you use 4 independent buttons you need each button connected to the resistors in the sch. Basically the way the buttons work is to provide a unique voltage that is then sensed by the ADC to determine which button you pressed. This way it only takes one pin to sense all four buttons. I hope that makes sense and it correct. That is how it looks to operate by looking at the schematics.

for #3 I'm hoping this is cut into smaller pieces to make up all the other headers on the board. Again, just my guess.

dave
 
Dave,

Thanks..... Had a very late night at work; will look into this tomorrow. I appreciate you taking the time to respond. Hopefully we can all come together to help each other. This is a great forum, I have learned so much; and fought through alot on my own to figure it all out. I promise if we can work this out, that I will give a newbies take on setting this up, in hopes it can help more..... This is too good not to follow-up on. GREAT WORK !!!!!! Can you tell, I am a bit excited ?????? LOL
 
Originally posted by D Peart:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Scott Miz:
Okay gang, I have an update and once again a few questions. I have flashed my wrt54g, flashed my ATMEGA, got my boards on order, ordered my probes. Can't wait to finally put it all together, as I have been staging things along the way. But I do have some follow-up questions......

Dave, I ran home and printed it all out; so tell me, do you have four individual boards for each button, or did you design a circuit to include all 4 buttons on 1 board???? How does your's look????? And how does this match to the main set-up????

I refuse to let this bet us, i hope we can make this a thread that many can follow; and understand.

Photo's and a true interconnet can really help.

1.) If I log into my router at 192.168.200.1 I get to the Linkmaster screen and can login and such; however my time is all zero's and none of the fields are filled in, is this normal with not having board and probes installed????

2.) What are the functions of the 4 switches on top of router?? Are these four individual boards or just one?? Photo would help....

3.) On parts list, what is the 36 pin header for?????

Also, If all goes good; I will have two boards to sell if anyone is interested...... Price would be $9.22 plus cost of stamps.

Thanks

Scott for #2 the buttons allow you to setup the linkmeter without the web. You can implement them as four buttons or as a single 4-way button. The single 4-way button is what is in the parts list from Mouser. On the git page, under Eagle you will see the linkmeter-button.sch file. Load that up in eagle and it will show you how to hook up the 4-way button. If you use 4 independent buttons you need each button connected to the resistors in the sch. Basically the way the buttons work is to provide a unique voltage that is then sensed by the ADC to determine which button you pressed. This way it only takes one pin to sense all four buttons. I hope that makes sense and it correct. That is how it looks to operate by looking at the schematics.

for #3 I'm hoping this is cut into smaller pieces to make up all the other headers on the board. Again, just my guess.

dave </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
 
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