LinkMeter v2 Homebrew BBQ Controller - Part 1


 
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Bryan, I did calculate the coefficients; came out with these results : c1 = 0.0012555249, c2 = 1.5671315E-4, c3 = 3.2210954E-7
I use a 50k fixed resistor with the Ikea probes...

They come with the unit too and there is a beeper in it
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However I didn't use that for my controllers yet.

Glad to hear that my little contribution is usefull!
 
Success! Thank you Bryan! The linksys is now flashed correctly, now its time to connect the heatermeter to it
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My crimpers came today, and worked awesome (worth the money), so I was able to finish up my build. Seems to be working great! I made some of my connector cables too long so I had to sort of insulate everything with gaffers tape and shoehorn it into the router, but it seems to be working just fine.

Smoking some ribs this weekend, looking forward to giving it a go!
 
So I think I messed up the router already, not sure if its in fail-safe mode or not. 192.168.200.1 still brings up the main page but when I try to go to the configuration I log in and any other page I try to go to I get a page not found error. After that I can't get back to the main page without rebooting the router. Also the Orange and white LED's are on solid all the time once it boots up and they didn't turn on when I first flashed the router. Any ideas? Again sorry I am a noob, I have read back through the first 15 pages of this thread but haven't found anyone with this issue so I'll keep on reading.
 
Originally posted by Ben B.:
So I think I messed up the router already, not sure if its in fail-safe mode or not. 192.168.200.1 still brings up the main page but when I try to go to the configuration I log in and any other page I try to go to I get a page not found error. After that I can't get back to the main page without rebooting the router. Also the Orange and white LED's are on solid all the time once it boots up and they didn't turn on when I first flashed the router.
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The orange and white LEDs are normal when it boots up. They usually come on when the router is completely booted (if I remember correctly, I'm not in front of my device right now).

The page not found thing is unusual. I've seen that happen before when I was doing development and I'd broken something, but it shouldn't do that on the snapshot. Let me try wiping my device and installing the snapshot tonight to see if I maybe have left a bug in. To clarify though, you're getting a message that says like "No page is registered at..." when you click on Login or Configuration?
 
Originally posted by Kyle Christensen:


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My crimpers came today, and worked awesome (worth the money), so I was able to finish up my build. Seems to be working great! I made some of my connector cables too long so I had to sort of insulate everything with gaffers tape and shoehorn it into the router, but it seems to be working just fine.

Smoking some ribs this weekend, looking forward to giving it a go!
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Did you use the 4-way button? If so is it located on the side of the router?

Very clean looking.
 
Originally posted by Bryan Mayland:
The orange and white LEDs are normal when it boots up. They usually come on when the router is completely booted (if I remember correctly, I'm not in front of my device right now).

The page not found thing is unusual. I've seen that happen before when I was doing development and I'd broken something, but it shouldn't do that on the snapshot. Let me try wiping my device and installing the snapshot tonight to see if I maybe have left a bug in. To clarify though, you're getting a message that says like "No page is registered at..." when you click on Login or Configuration?
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I can get to the login in page, and I set a password. After I log in I get the Linkmeter configuration page but if I try to go to any other page I get page not found. Whats the easiest way to wipe it clean and start over tonight?
 
Originally posted by Kyle Christensen:
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My crimpers came today, and worked awesome (worth the money), so I was able to finish up my build. Seems to be working great! I made some of my connector cables too long so I had to sort of insulate everything with gaffers tape and shoehorn it into the router, but it seems to be working just fine.
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That looks friggin sweet man, and yeah that fan adapter does look nice. I was surprised when you said the fan was smaller than the one on the parts list. I tried two weekends ago to cut and braze a new bracket for my fan and I must just be totally inept at metalwork because I ended up with smoking pile of metal garbage.

What's the damper like? Is it like a little door on a light spring that holds it against the fan outlet? I was thinking of just putting a small door on mine on the part that attaches to the BBQ and just have it close via gravity.
 
Originally posted by Phillip Koken:
Could the Linkmeter be tweaked to drive a Servo which controls an LPG valve? I see some serial --> servo interfaces available...
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Well the fan output is a PWM and servos can use PWM right? I have no experience with it though, LPG, servos or valves so I can't say what's needed.
 
Originally posted by Ben B.:
I can get to the login in page, and I set a password. After I log in I get the Linkmeter configuration page but if I try to go to any other page I get page not found. Whats the easiest way to wipe it clean and start over tonight?
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That's really strange. I just reset my password to blank then tried setting it through the web interface and it worked. I was half expecting it to break.

If you can ssh in the easiest way to reset the config back to default is
mtd -r erase rootfs_data && reboot

If you can't ssh in, just reflash the image via tftp. When you start fresh again, keep careful notes about the exact steps you're taking so if it happens again, I might be able to reproduce it and fix it.
 
Originally posted by Bryan Mayland:
That's really strange. I just reset my password to blank then tried setting it through the web interface and it worked. I was half expecting it to break.

If you can ssh in the easiest way to reset the config back to default is
mtd -r erase rootfs_data && reboot

If you can't ssh in, just reflash the image via tftp. When you start fresh again, keep careful notes about the exact steps you're taking so if it happens again, I might be able to reproduce it and fix it.
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Now is reflashing the same as before or do i need to change "tftp -i 192.168.1.1 put linkmeter-wrt54g-squashfs.bin" comand to point to 192.168.200.1?
 
Originally posted by Ben B.:
Now is reflashing the same as before or do i need to change "tftp -i 192.168.1.1 put linkmeter-wrt54g-squashfs.bin" comand to point to 192.168.200.1?
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Nope still 192.168.1.1, the TFTP bootloader is always 192.168.1.1
 
Originally posted by Bryan Mayland:LPG, servos or valves so I can't say what's needed.
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I think I have the parts around here to get this done. Let me build a "Conventional" version first then I will delve into making a valve controller.
 
Originally posted by Bryan Mayland:
Ah if the contrast adjusts from nothingness to a full bar then the contrast is working. Unfortunately it sounds like you've got the "LCD doesn't work" problem that is all too common here. If you've doublechecked your connections for continuity from the shiftregister to the LCD itself, and from the ATmega to the shiftregister, you can try swapping out D2 for another 1N4001 or a 1N914/1N4148 if you have one. Other than that I can't give you much guidance. Even with an oscilloscope it is difficult to tell why the hell it isn't working.

Oh now that I have my logic analyzer I should hook that sucker up to the LCD and see if there's anything sketchy about the data showing up at the LCD! It will be tomorrow night at the earliest though.
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Double checked the continuity from the shift register and everything checks ok. Tried replacing D2 and still no luck.
 
Originally posted by D Peart:

Did you use the 4-way button? If so is it located on the side of the router?

Very clean looking.
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Nope, I haven't built my board yet, but I have the stuff for it. Haven't decided if I'm going to use it, primarily because I don't really want to screw up cutting a button hole when I did such a good job on the LCD hole.
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If I could easily side mount it, I'd probably go for that route, but I'm not sure that's feasible.
 
Originally posted by James G.:
Double checked the continuity from the shift register and everything checks ok. Tried replacing D2 and still no luck.
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I hooked up the logic analyzer and everything looks acceptable to me as far as the signals going to the LCD and their timing. I did notice that we initialize the LCD with "display on" in the control field and the spec sheet example says to do it with "display off", however I'm not sure if this is intended as an example.

Try flashing lcdtest.hex (right-click, save as) to the avr firmware to see if it makes a difference for you. Also, if you have the LCD's D0-D3 connected try disconnecting them. The datasheet says they are "don't care" but who knows.

After that point I have no idea what could be wrong.
 
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